lmorris

No ESP. New vehicle powertrain warranty. The reason it took so long is they kept "losing or couldn't properly see" the pictures we sent. After 2 weeks of taking pictures and messing with wrong Email addresses, we got approval. Then it took a week to get the engine.

Finally have approval for long block. Been a few weeks. Now I get to put it all back together.

Plus 1 to that, I do the same. On the last 3 cab lifts I have taken to using my little Blue Point butane torch on every cage nut. For the few minutes it takes to get at them with out needing room for tools, it's worth it because they all come out with my impact after.

What chaps my ass, and it happens alot around these parts, is when I tell the customer that there is way to much water/contaminants in their fuel and suggest they change where they fuel up, they look at me like I am a freaking loon. "All our trucks fill at the same place and mine is bad?", they say. "Well it came from somewhere.", I say. And I am the fool?

Didn't know this before and never saw it mentioned. When the truck goes into derate is also disables the cruise control.

You still need something to link the PC to the vehicle. I haven't heard of anything new.

They lock the diecast models in a glass cabinet here. Lucky for us we have a Tim Hortons right next to us.

It's the license key that needs to be pirated, once that is done you are golden. However, if Ford is smart they would have used technology adapted by the big MMORPG companies to generate and monitor the license keys. Has anyone here tried hacking online games lately, not so easily done, and it's not long before you are found out if you do manage to get in for free.

Possibly to combat the use of "copy cat" VCMs. Heard something along these lines earlier this year.

You know you're going have a good week when you come in monday morning to find donuts on the service counter.

Replaced one not to long ago. Driver's valve cover must be removed(so you can slide engine over to the driver's side), along with turbo,oil pan and both motor mounts.

The saddest I have heard when asking if the customer has checked the owners manual when a warning message pops up is.... "Read the manual...I will wait for the DVD to come out.."

And how many coolant leaks is this thing going to have before someone realizes that maybe they need to check the thermostats? The new TSB eliminates thermostat inspection because the new calibration is supposed to catch it before is causes the leak.

The truck had to go out to a job site this mornimg. It's coming back in a week or so for the flush anyways. I will test it then. The customer said they thoroughly flushed the auxilary heater before putting it on the truck, we shall see. He may even replace the heater core.

Have a truck here with a plugged heater core. On the back of this truck is the heated work camper that came off their old 6.4L equipped truck. Is it possible that there was a reaction within the coolant as it goes through the older heater that once had Premium Gold flowing through it?

Talk about grave digging.....Last post was almost 2 years ago.

Done some diag. and performed 11B23 with out any issues. Seems like we are good to go.

After I don't know how many years of being missing my 15MM deep impact socket showed up this morning. Was lying on the floor by a hoist across the shop. Pressure washer must have disturbed it from it's resting place during the weekend shop cleaning.

Long block 5.7L, bolted up pan then remembered I forgot the oil pump. Put the pan on a second time and realized I forgot the pump drive. Dropping a 2.3L into a ranger, almost had in buttoned up to the transmission and for some reason I glanced over at my bench and saw the clutch and flywheel sitting there.

The last I heard was that the hardware was going to be sourced out through Snap-On and the software would have to be purchased through Ford.

Of course he has Keith, we always do that. Don't we???

Check your cooling fan operation also. Make sure it works. If you access to PID data you can ramp up the fanvar. to 100%, rev engine to 2500 RPM and the fanspeed should hit at least 2800RPM. If you do get the heads have them checked for warpage.

Are there any signs of coolant in the exhaust? Use a vacuum type cooling system filler and apply 20" of vacuum to the system, you will have to lower the level quite a bit to do this, If vacuum holds over 15 minutes most likely the cooler is ok. When you say 7-9 degrees difference, is that F or C. Ford spec is 15 degrees Fahrenheit, so 7-9 are normal if in degrees F. Is there a lot of white flacky residue around the cap, if so the coolant is venting out past the cap. 20 PSI is way to high. Typically if the pressure raises right away its the cooler thats leaking, if it takes some hard driving to push it up then you have headgasket issues. I have seen headgaskets leak without an EGR cooler issue. Most likely you will have turbo unison ring issues also. As high boost is usually the cause of headgasket failure. The reason for replacing the oil cooler is this "The oil cooler has the smallest restriction in the cooling system, coolant flows directly from the oil cooler into the EGR cooler. If the oil cooler becomes restricted, coolant flow is reduced through the EGR cooler and causes overheating of the EGR cooler and it cracks internally." I see no problem in using aftermarket oil coolers, just don't eliminate the EGR cooler.

We just our R134 core tool 2 days ago. Don't think it will ever get used for a very long time. Oh well....

The latest version of AVG is a resource hog. The registry cleaner is a joke because it tells you you have issues then you have to pay to have the tool to clean them up. Funny thing is that I tried it on 2 different computers and got the exact same list of problems. It's a money gimmic. Microsoft's new antivirus program, Security essentials" works very nice. I use it at home on my XP computer and on my work Win7 laptop. CCleaner is a nice cleanup tool from Piriform. Download it here, www.piriform.com/ccleaner