ktmlew Posted August 30, 2007 Share Posted August 30, 2007 Leaking at dipstick tube "adapter". Big nut on outside was WAY lose. Only one I messed with before with this concern, pulled engine, removed pan and replaced the gasket that seals the tube "adapter" to the pan. Anyone come up with an easier fix? Truck is a manual trans, 4X4 and the shop I'm in doesn't have a very heavy trans jack or an engine stand that will support these pigs. Even considered doing it cab off? Truck is in really nice shape. Rust isn't a huge issue here in NC. The one I worked on before, I loosened the rear cab bolts, removed the front 4 and jacked the cab up enough to insert a 4x4 between the rad support & frame mounts. Don't think I removed the turbo? Can't remember if it was a manual trans but think it was? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 If I read right, yoou say it's a '95 F-Super Duty? Those ones are relatively easy to pull the engine out of. You don't even need to remove the turbo, like you would on '99 to '02 trucks with the cab on. Being a manual transmission though, I would remove the transmission first though. Some have even advised doing it with the engine IN. I've never had the pleasure of doing it this method though. I usually remove the engine, clean the block off THOROUGHLY, and install the new pan with silicone DRY (no oil), and leave to cure properly overnight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 I KNOW I have done this in chassis two or three times and you do not need to remove the oil pan, starter or jack the engine up. The procedure requires sacrificing the dipstick tube to allow the nut and the o-ring to slide off and back on. The cut off tube also serves as a handle for the inner adapter and will prevent the adapter from falling into the oil pan. It has been several years since I last did this but I remember feeling like a freaking genius for pulling it off! A few things I remember noting: Remove the dipstick before cutting the tube or you will need to replace it as well. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif Bend the end of the cut off tube as a safety catch in case you have to let go of it... and you will need to. Clean the area with Brakleen after cutting the tube to keep dirt out of the pan. The new tube does not come with a new o-ring, remember to order one of those too! Save the cut tube for future jobs . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 I'm out of the dealership currently so need some help with part numbers as finding a knowledgeable parts guy in this area is very tough. Don't remember the details of how this set-up works? O-ring seals the adapter to pan on inside or seals nut to pan on outside or SEALS EAT ALL THE FISH THEY CAN HOLD???/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/surprise.gif I was thinking it had a gasket on the inside? Been too long ago and I only worked on one... /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/poke.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 You edited while I was posting...very sneaky! Sounds very doable though. I REALLY don't want to pull the motor or pan!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 It is rather sneaky now that you mention it. Yes the seal is on the inside. After you cut the dipstick tube and bend it, loosen the nut while holding the stick. Take the nut off and slide it off the stick and then you will see the o-ring in the adapter. Pull it out the hole with a trans pick and up over the stick. This is when you realize why the dipstick has to be cut. (it's also cheaper than pulling the pan) Pack a little dielectric grease, trans assembly lube or whatever you have around in the adapter o-ring groove to hold the new o-ring in place. Slide the o-ring down the stick and work it into the groove. Then the nut. Hope you payed attention to the position of the adapter too. It is notched and can be installed in one of two positions. You might want to make a mark on the pan to indicate alignment. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted August 31, 2007 Author Share Posted August 31, 2007 I DID remember the notch! Just didn't remember if it had an o-ring or gasket. Sounds like a fairly easy fix. Will make me look like a hero...although I'm not smart enough to keep my mouth shut about you doing all the thinking... Thanks for the tips!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARRY BRUDZYNSKI Posted August 31, 2007 Share Posted August 31, 2007 Ktmlew, as follows from inside out. F4TZ6751B inner tube holder F4TZ6753A inner seal F4TZ6751A outer nut 875519C91 dip tube oring If your replacing the pan the new pan comes with both of the 6751's and the 6753. The dip tube oring is seperate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGLR13MWZ Posted September 1, 2007 Share Posted September 1, 2007 Take a coat hanger and feed it in the tube. This will allow you to hold it there while you fish the oring off and put a new one back on and tighten it up. Note to self, feed the new oring down the tube before getting settled in. So its there when you need it. Cut the old one off when you pull it out. It takes approx 30 min at the most after you have done it a few times. I had a mechanic that worked on a bus recall show me that. He avg. 23 buses per day for 2 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted September 1, 2007 Share Posted September 1, 2007 P.S. This is the procedure for getting a "dropped" fuel pump pushrod out of the oil pan, too. One small difference: use a piece of tie wire or welding rod to hold the inner "piece" out of the way while you fish the pushrod out. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted September 1, 2007 Share Posted September 1, 2007 Haven't seen one of those in a long time Bruce. I actually had to think for a minute, to figure out what you were talking about. Then it all came back to me and I was glad we were in the present day and not the early to mid 90's anymore. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktmlew Posted September 5, 2007 Author Share Posted September 5, 2007 1.Loosened dipstick tube bracket and pulled out. 2.Removed starter <wanted plenty-o-room> and drained oil into a bucket. Owner uses Amsoil and it was just changed. 3.Bent a V shape on a piece of heavy wire and stuffed it in the "adapater". 4.Removed and pushed "adapter" inside pan and allowed to gently settle to bottom. 5.Cleaned pan inside and out. 6.Pulled "adapter" up to remove o-ring and found o-ring was broken, that's why it was leaking. 7.Fed new o-ring up wire and stuffed it thru hole and into groove in adapter. 8.Pulled adapter into position and installed nut with a bit of red loctite. 9.Changed dipstick o-ring and re-installed tube. 10.Re-installed starter and oil. Took about the same amount of time it took me to type this... Thanks for the help guys. The part numbers made this really easy. Next have to figure out why this truck eats belts...customer says it's been on-going for about two years. Only thing left on the belt driven system that hasn't been replaced is the PS pully or pump! I removed the belt and checked for failing vaccum pump, idlers, pulleys, etc...tensioner didn't wobble when being moved. Ran out of time as they needed the truck. Will bring it back later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LARRY BRUDZYNSKI Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 Seem to remember something about belts getting chewed up, I think there may be a updated idler pulley kit or something along those lines. Can you get me the vin for the truck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 Glad to hear the oil leak repair went well. As for the belt problem, you might want to start a new topic... we can help there too but it might get long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Amacker Posted September 5, 2007 Share Posted September 5, 2007 Took about the same amount of time it took me to type this... Good Job! Next have to figure out why this truck eats belts...customer says it's been on-going for about two years. Only thing left on the belt driven system that hasn't been replaced is the PS pulley or pump! I removed the belt and checked for failing vacuum pump, idlers, pulleys, etc...tensioner didn't wobble when being moved. 1. Take a long straightedge and lay it across the front of each pulley to verify that they line up with the next pulley. 1/8" of an inch out of true is enough to cause short life. Are you sure nobody messed with the PS pump? It's common to have someone push the pulley on to the wrong depth after replacing it. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif 2. Make sure the belt is the correct length. I was always amazed how many vehicles are running around with the wrong belt. Are there timing marks on the tensioner, where the "pointer" needs to be between them? If the belt is a bit long, the tensioner might go "over center" and put excessive tension on the belt. Are these OE belts by application? Or are they matching the (wrong?) PN from the old belt? I've seen that, too. The fan clutch isn't seized, right? Just thinking out loud... Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8WA Sman Posted October 25, 2014 Share Posted October 25, 2014 Did an '01 today,I would be fine if I never have to do one again. ... The inside piece slipped off my wire and fell to the bottom of the oil pan, spent the better part of three hours before I managed to fish it back out. If I ever do one again I am going to use a vise grip with a string which is what I did after I got it back to the hole. Oh yeah guess what I had for supper. ...Fish... O the irony 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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