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I am working on a 03 f250, I installed reman long block, as soon

as I started spinning it over I could tell that there was a

compression problem with a cyl. found #1 cylinder intake valves

leaking air, no obvious problems were noticed with valve covers

off, swapped push rods with another cyl and compression was up

higher but still 100 psi below others (280 vs 375-390),

as I was removing cyl head I was running leakdown tester while I

backed off head bolt and rocker carrier bolts and the air leak

stopped, comepletely. removed head and replaced lifters on #1 cyl

reassemble and same thing. the next test was to measure total

clearance between rocker and crossbar with the lifter collapsed

of coarse #1 intake had no clearance but others (did all 16)

ranged from .002 to .040, ok my question is what clearance would

you be comfortable with? my thinking is that if this was a

mechanical grind cam that I would need a min of .015 I am looking

for any input on this sublect. thanks

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To answer your question, you should have zero clearance between the rocker arm and the crossbar. The 6.0L uses hydraulic roller lifters. If you have a problem with the valves staying open then either your assembled valve height is too high or the pushrods are too long. Sounds like you might have mismatched parts but I don't know about built date differences that would effect valve geometry-maybe it is just a bad head.

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Step away from the motor.... do not do anything other than to report the problem to your supplier..... You procured a motor with the understanding it was ready to run.

 

If you do anything unilaterally, there is every chance that you will own the motor (you may already have crossed that line since you have, in effect, assumed responsibility for someone elses oversight in the ops you have already performed). By removing the head, you have assumed that "someone" is going to pay for gaskets and bolts. And we aren't sure that it wont be you.

 

These sorts of problems desparately need to be addressed in ways that are in accordance with the rebuilders guidelines....

 

Am I sounding like a dink? Yes.... Hopefully, I sound like a dink that is on your side.... Just stop what you're doing... stop increasing the amount of time you wont get paid for.... Slam dunk the problem right back into the remans lap.... It's his problem... have him deal with it and have him cover any lost time you encounter....

 

Now... the bad part.... consider every action you take. Consider the reason(s) for that action. If you bought a toaster and it didn't make toast... would you take it back to the store or would you monkey with it? Your new long block doesn't "make toast".... why monkey with it?

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WELL PUT JIM! THATS EXACTLY WHAT YOU SHOULD DO. IT'S BAD ENOUGH THE TIME YOUR GETTING TO DO THE JOB IS TIGHT WITHOUT ACCOUNTING FOR ANY OFF BEAT OPERATIONS. SEND IT BACK TO PARTS. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif

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To answer your question, you should have zero clearance between the rocker arm and the crossbar. The 6.0L uses hydraulic roller lifters. If you have a problem with the valves staying open then either your assembled valve height is too high or the pushrods are too long. Sounds like you might have mismatched parts but I don't know about built date differences that would effect valve geometry-maybe it is just a bad head.

To answer his question, if the lifter is collapsed then you MUST have "some" clearance. I agree that .015" "should" be enough.

 

But I do agree with the others that you NEVER take apart a re-man'd part unless the rebuilder requests you do so and agrees to pay for such work. I have in fact had to do that on a Jasper 5.8L gas engine that I installed...but they sent gaskets and paid a fair labor time for the investigative labor.

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this is a ford reman and I assumed responsibility as soon as I

opened the hood, (powertrain warranty). Have had contact with

ford hotline and had our fse look at it, we are putting new

(commonized) heads on as there is no valve train clearance on

#1 and only .002 on #2, valves are recessed in head about .030

and pass side engine deck has been machined, not sure how much,

but will let you guys know what happens, thanks ktmlew for reading this post carefully I know it is difficult to follow.

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Funny thing about all this warranty aspect though, In the past we have had problem remanufactured assemblies that were installed and had something go wrong. "Diag it, run a cost cap and repair as required by warranty."

 

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/surprise.gif

 

Of course, this is installed stuff. I have had shit come from the FAR busted up that went back the next day. Fortunately, I have not had any reman experiences for quite a while.

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If you bought a toaster and it didn't make toast... would you take it back to the store or would you monkey with it?

Probably 90% of the guys on here would dink around with it, at least a little bit, Jim /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif THEN box it back up and return it /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

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Originally Posted By: Jim Warman
If you bought a toaster and it didn't make toast... would you take it back to the store or would you monkey with it?

Probably 90% of the guys on here would dink around with it, at least a little bit, Jim /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif THEN box it back up and return it /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

I diagnosed my coffee machine before I called them to get it replaced under warranty.

Didn't mean to hijack the thread.

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Quote:
Probably 90% of the guys on here would dink around with it, at least a little bit, Jim /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif THEN box it back up and return it /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif


Aaron, Did you just accuse Jim of being incapable of fixing a toaster?????????? You've got a bigger set than Larry's bumper /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smirk.gif

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I just put a 6.0 in an 03 that became never left. It never sounded good from the moment of start up, had icp hash like I have never seen at mid throttle high rpm. I screwed around with it for a while, shot off recordings to hotline, was advised to replace the pump, took off the oil filter housing and saw glitter in the bottom, drain the pan to find more glitter. This engine had a total of 20 miles from my test drives, I called hotline, they wanted tear down and cost cap. My FSE got involved, now I have another engine.

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I may have misunderstood, leon... and I apologize for that.

 

When we have similar problems with big dollar FQRs, we seem to have to get permission for umpteen offices and people (and, possibly, a note from our mommy) before we get to straighten out their mess.

 

One memorable one was a 7.3 with what appeared to be what was left of three or four of those little anchors for attaching suspended ceiling bars to joists laying on top of a couple of pistons.... Of course it MUST have been US put them there....

 

That one turned into a f@ck show.

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Naw, Jim can fix a toaster, I'm sure of it.

 

However, does anyone know how to turn a toaster into a time machine?

I used to have a toaster that could fast forward a slice of bread into ashes... does that count?

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