HeuiTim Posted April 29, 2008 Share Posted April 29, 2008 My dad's 2000/1(Notsure) F150 has a right side manifold leak. How common are these for leaks, and how well does the rusty hardware come off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff_E Posted April 29, 2008 Share Posted April 29, 2008 I've done a few 5.4 exhaust manifold leaks. Be sure to order a set of new studs and nuts because some will break. They usually break flush with the manifold, so once the manifold is slid off you can usually grab the remaining stud with a vice grips and finesse them out with the help of a torch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff_E Posted April 29, 2008 Share Posted April 29, 2008 On the bright side though, it's an excuse to use the FIRE WRENCH /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/flamethrower.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mekanik Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 Very common. I have replaced many 4.6, 5.4, 6.8 manifolds. The manifold is probably warped and needs to be replaced too. Like Jeff said, the stud usally comes out with a stud extractor or vice grips after the manifold is out. I have had to drill quite a few out too. Not the worst thing in the world. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastendpowerstroke Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 burn the nuts off with the flame wrench (a little finesse needed here) and use a roller type stud remover to extract the remains of the studs you cut and a left hand drill bit/EZ out and more finesse for the one or two that broke flush. replace with new stainless studs and nuts and of course gaskets. then order a new EGR tube and a set of studs for the L/S cause it's gonna go soon after.... I did my own 97 F-150 R/S 4 months ago and just did the L/S two weeks ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeuiTim Posted April 30, 2008 Author Share Posted April 30, 2008 Thanks for the quick response guys, I'll pass it on to him. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted April 30, 2008 Share Posted April 30, 2008 For the studs that don't break off flush with the head, but are too stubborn to easy out, we spin a nut on what's left and weld it. They come right out with an impact on the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted May 1, 2008 Share Posted May 1, 2008 For the studs that don't break off flush with the head, but are too stubborn to easy out, we spin a nut on what's left and weld it. They come right out with an impact on the nut. Interesting tactic and a good tip! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbup.gif How are you welding the nut, arc or brazing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 Once the nut is threaded onto the stud, it usaully creates a nice little pocket on the end, which we then fill to the brim with our MIG welder. The heat from welding also helps rip 'em out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted May 2, 2008 Share Posted May 2, 2008 The heat from welding also helps rip 'em out. That is beneficial. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeuiTim Posted May 5, 2008 Author Share Posted May 5, 2008 Cats like to break off flush or below flush with the head, Had my boss buy wire for purpose, Most of you are using an ER-70S wire in your mig welders, strong but hard. Try a spool of ER-80S next time, it is very tough, and you can still drill it when all else fails. Cat's C15 Accert turbo mounting studs were popping off on a regular basis until they finally changed the material. Cat thought it would be a good idea to recess the thread 1/2" to allow movemnet of the stud from expansion. Of course the stud snaps off flush with the thread. I used this wire to build the stud 1/2" longer to bring it above the surface and weld a nut on it. saved the manifold section and did not have to remove it from engine. Needless to say I get the "fun" jobs. I just hijacked my own thread! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zog Posted May 12, 2008 Share Posted May 12, 2008 I have done quite a few manifolds, I try and stay away from the hot wrench. Once you heat the stud you have tempered it, and in the event that you have to drill it, you will be eating drill bits. A couple of tricks that have been rather succesful, if the stud is sticking out, give a few hits with your air hammer, I use the hammer head bit, they usually thead right out with little effort. If it is broken off flush you can ake a pick and clear the corrosion from around the stud and utilize a left handed drill bit. typicly the studs arn't siezed, just rotted, you just have clean out the corrosion. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeuiTim Posted June 29, 2008 Author Share Posted June 29, 2008 Just wanted to update you guys, Dad has ceramic coated headers on there now. Most hardware unscrewed, rear left stud required some nut welding. After looking at rh manifold, discovered #1 was cracked almost completely around. leak was at #4 gasket. Pacesetter 50 state legal headers, very good quality, bolted right up, new egr tube, all fixed $349 headers, $60 for egr tube. Eliminated rust problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.