Using pipe threader to remove cab bolts

[slim]

I saw a thread on the FMC message boards about a guy that had converted a hand held electric pipe threader to remove cab bolts on the 6.4L trucks. The idea was that the pipe threader had enough torque to remove the bolts without using an impact tool and kept the loctite from seizing in the threads half way out. I was curious to see if anybody here had tried this contraption and what you thought about it. Seems like it might be a good idea, but I've only had a cab off of two trucks so far and it would be hard to justify the cost right now.

[DwayneGorniak]

I have burnt out two half inch electric drills now. But I break the bolts loose by hand and then use a half inch electric drill to turn them all they way out. So here is what I was thinking I was gonna purchase next: http://www.milwaukeetool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_27_40028_-1_684310_192160_192137

 

This is my favourite part of the tool description: From turning the largest bits into steel to powering grain augers or other equipment that requires portable power, the Super Hole Shooter line of drills can handle it.

[Brad Clayton]

The fellow that made that post is a member here. He doesn't seem to come around much anymore. Might have something to do with some of us blasting him pretty hard here about a post over there that could have or could not have been a derogatory dig about Keith and this website.

[Joey Kaylor]

a Milwaukee Hole Hawg will take them loose and rip them out well.

 

 

Just make sure you got a big dude on the trigger, cause it will fuck you up. I have been thrown off a ladder using it to cut 6" holes in walls to blow insulation in before. I am 6'3, 285lbs and it caught a nail and spun me off the ladder like it was nothing. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shocked.gif

 

 

but dammit they got some mother fucking torque! I have one in my toolbox, with an adapter I made to go to 1/2" drive. it works like a charm on the body bolts.

[DwayneGorniak]

a Milwaukee Hole Hawg will take them loose and rip them out well.

 

 

Just make sure you got a big dude on the trigger, cause it will fuck you up. I have been thrown off a ladder using it to cut 6" holes in walls to blow insulation in before. I am 6'3, 285lbs and it caught a nail and spun me off the ladder like it was nothing. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shocked.gif

 

 

but dammit they got some mother fucking torque! I have one in my toolbox, with an adapter I made to go to 1/2" drive. it works like a charm on the body bolts.

 

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hahaha.gif Well I'm glad to know they work well. I'm only 6 feet tall and 210lb's. So I may have to let the apprentices do it. I'm still /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rofl.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hahaha.gif Damn that's funny.

[Keith Browning]

Think of it like head studs... Maybe somebody will come out with "Body Studs" with a cotter pin hole drilled on the end and put castle nuts on them that come off easily. Problem solved.

 

 

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[DwayneGorniak]

Think of it like head studs... Maybe somebody will come out with "Body Studs" with a cotter pin hole drilled on the end and put castle nuts on them that come off easily. Problem solved.

 

 

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cover.gif

That's a hell of a good idea Keith. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif Just think, they're even alignment dowels.

[slim]

There's no doubt that they could have come up with a better design with a little forethought. I had also thought about using a 1/2" drill but the air powered drill at work wouldn't cut the mustard and another guy at work tried a cheap 1/2" electric drill and it wouldn't do it either. I have found some cheap pipe threaders at discount tool stores, when I pull the next cab maybe I'll give it a try.

[DwayneGorniak]

I think I'm gonna have some fun and get me a Milwaukee arm twister. But crap, their expensive.

[slim]

$200 to $300 for a tool to remove 8 bolts is hard to swallow right now but I have seen some cheaper on E-bay.

[Keith Browning]

I think I'm gonna have some fun and get me a Milwaukee arm twister. But crap, their expensive.

That makes me ask, is it really worth it? I don't think that heating the bolts up and removing them by hand is that big of a deal or adds too much time to the job. I realize that every tenth counts but... just how expensive is this tool?

 

If it wasn't for the design of the cage nuts this wouldn't even be an issue.

[Bruce Amacker]

I am 6'3, 285lbs

You went on a diet? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

[G. Bedford]

In our shop the bolts come out hard the first time only. We use heat to remove the bolts. New bolts are cleaned of the pre-applied Lok-Tite and torqued to spec. on installation. In over ten years of raising cabs, I have yet to see any concerns arising from doing it this way. I just finished an '08 F-550 oil field rig that the cab has been off for the third time for various repairs in 30k miles (12k hard miles since previous repair) and the bolts were all still there and tight on initial break-away. I don't think it's the flange nut that is the problem as much as the amount/type of Lok-Tite used. In my opinion the Lok-Tite is overkill and causes more problems than it's worth. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

[Joey Kaylor]

asshole. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

[Tony302600]

In our shop the bolts come out hard the first time only. We use heat to remove the bolts. New bolts are cleaned of the pre-applied Lok-Tite and torqued to spec. on installation. In over ten years of raising cabs, I have yet to see any concerns arising from doing it this way. I just finished an '08 F-550 oil field rig that the cab has been off for the third time for various repairs in 30k miles (12k hard miles since previous repair) and the bolts were all still there and tight on initial break-away. I don't think it's the flange nut that is the problem as much as the amount/type of Lok-Tite used. In my opinion the Lok-Tite is overkill and causes more problems than it's worth. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

+1 we do an assembly line thing, one guy heats the shit outta the bolt, then the other follows loosening the bolts with a rachet. Works everytime. Come out like butter

[DwayneGorniak]

So you guys just heat the head of the bolts?

[Keith Browning]

So you guys just heat the head of the bolts?

I assumed this was well known by now. Yes, you can use your torch to carefully heat the heads of the body bolts then wait a few minutes for the heat to travel to the threaded end and soften the thread lock compound. Then break them loose and remove by hand.

 

Here is the ARTICLE I wrote on this. One of the few I have gotten to this year.

[DwayneGorniak]

Just double checkin Keith. I kinda figured that was the way most folks are doin it. But's it's sometimes good to question it just to make sure.

[Tony302600]

So you guys just heat the head of the bolts?

What we do is one guy heats up the head of each bolt 1-2 minutes, then goes back to the first one, heats it up, then someone else uses a 1/2''rachet to hand loosen them, the other guy moves to the 2nd and so on. We just did one this morning, only took 10-20minutes on a crew cab.

[Keith Browning]

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[BustedKnucklez]

I have burnt out two half inch electric drills now. [/color]

Im wondering if you heat them up first then use the drill, if that will avoid burning out the drill motors. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif I didn't know the heat em up trick. I think I'll try that next time. Good tip guys.

[DwayneGorniak]

Originally Posted By: DwayneGorniak

I have burnt out two half inch electric drills now. [/color]

Im wondering if you heat them up first then use the drill, if that will avoid burning out the drill motors. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/scratchhead.gif I didn't know the heat em up trick. I think I'll try that next time. Good tip guys.

No, I heat them up first and I still get the odd cage nut that spins. But a Makita drill is a piece of garbage compared to a Millwaukee. I've been watchin E-Bay and I'm gonna buy me one yet.

[Torqued_Up]

How many of these cab off do you guys do that you need a power tool for this? I suppose that if you already have the tool thats one thing otherwise I dont see the point. I have only had one cab off and didnt mind doing it by hand. I did know about the heating thing from here which probaly is why.

[Fordracer]

After reading these posts about the Hole Hawg I bought a rebuilt one on Ebay for $75 and used it to put cab bolts in one I had apart and it saved me about an hour. It only took 5-10 minutes to put them in. It will pay for itself in no time.

You have to put the drill against the frame or front tire before you turn it on or it will take you for a ride. These things are very powerful.

[DwayneGorniak]

How many of these cab off do you guys do that you need a power tool for this? I suppose that if you already have the tool thats one thing otherwise I dont see the point. I have only had one cab off and didnt mind doing it by hand. I did know about the heating thing from here which probaly is why.

I've done about eight or nine already. Keep in mind that up here we see lots of codensation and snow. So the bolts are not only tight from the locktite, but also rusty as hell. They also have a tendency to retain water in the threads which makes the rust even worse. I have had water pour down my arms after loosening a few of these bolts. Anyone remember the Taurus/Sable subframe bolt recall back in about ohhhh 95', 96'? They still haven't learned.