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UPS t444e low power

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Hi, everyone! Today I took over a job that has a low power complaint. The truck is a 1996 p1000. 5 spd spicer. vin # 1HTMHABM4TH327364 It has had a new turbo and muffler last year. Last week it has had 8 injectors, with glow plugs, harnesses, and valve cover gaskets,new fuel pump.The driver said it is better, but comes and goes. I looked at it last night, and seems to run a bit rough. Scanned ecm, and have code 224 keep alive memory fault - 615 keep alive memory corrupt - 622 field defaults selected. I dont see the normal small ecm and Idm relays, but I will look again tonight. Does this look like an ECM/IDM replacement? I was able to do a standard test, which set the IPR to 2400+ psi and a cyl bal test, which looked ok. This truck is lazy on the bottom end and pulls when the turbo cranks up, but still not all there. Not smoking, and I did not monitor boost at this point. Thanks!

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The ECMs and IDMs on these trucks seem to have a low failure rate in my opinion. In addition some of the 3BX ECMs have been discontinued and are on a send-it-in-and-we'll-fix-it status.

 

As far as your problem goes I'd look strongly at the ECM/IDM power feeds which are a huge pattern failure on these trucks. Check the two 15A fuses in the battery box for melting/corrosion, and follow those two 12ga purple wires (ECM/IDM powers)with two 12ga white wires (ECM grounds) forward looking for two connectors- one under the tranny or starter, and another somewhere on the firewall. P series are different than 4000s so I can't tell you exactly where they might be. I have pics if you need them but if you follow the wires you should find them. Check for green death in these connectors and check the voltage drop across the ECM/IDM relays that they feed.

 

Also don't forget that this is a three box system with the third module being the VPM. This puppy likes to get corrosion in it's connectors due to leaking windshields so I'd find that and visually inspect its connectors. There's also an updated harness for the VPM. My memory is fuzzy right now but if you unplug the VPM I think it runs on base HP, which might be your 622 code. I'd chase the 615 first, which is your interrupted power supply before hanging any parts.

 

Check fuel pressure under load, also- hook up a gauge and go cruising to make sure FP is staying up. IIRC there is a FP regulator update for this engine, too. The dip tube in the tank has a habit of cracking and sucking air.

 

I'll probably think of more stuff later, but the power/ground circuits are where I'd be concentrating right now. A regular old Ford 60 pin breakout box fits the ECM if you want to verify power/ground, and the two fatter wires on the top of the IDM are power/ground, so backprobe them and verify clean power. IIRC the ECM has 2 VBATS and a key hot, and 3 grounds (20-40-60). I've got great pics and case studies on these power circuits if you need them.

 

Make sure the EBPR is wide open. You have ISIS, right?

 

Good Luck!

 

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Hi, Bruce! I checked out the power and ground ckts. = ok. I checked the vpm, looks good on a visual. I replaced the ECM and IDM relays, and cleared the codes, and they did not come back. Yesterday, after I cleared the codes, they came back right away. I changed the throttle pedal for good measure. Road test, still the same. It pulls good when the turbo spools up, but kind of a dog until then. I took the sister truck to this one, for a ride, and it had more power down low, but I think mine pulls harder on the top end. I also had another one in for a clutch adjustment, so I took it for a ride. That one is stronger from the beginning, to end. Same 3 box, and turbo set up. No wastgate assy. My truck still seems to run a little choppy/ rough, but not bad. I think it's over all better, and will be ok for peak. What do you think of any possible upgrades, that I might be able to do to this later on. Can we use a newer style turbo ect? or do you think it still has a problem that still needs to be sorted out? Thanks. PS I did not get a chance to monitor the fuel pressure, or boost pressure yet.

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1. Check fuel pressure under load at 45MPH WOT. This should have a strainer cup and you checked it, right? On rare occasion the strainers at the cyl head inlets could be restricted, it might not hurt to check FP at the heads themselves after removing the end plugs (1/4" sq drive). Engine serial # 626395 and below don’t have these filter screen fitting and should have them installed.

On the FP regulator there is a brass "nut"- at the right end of the regulator, on the forward side of the FF. This "nut" should have notches cut into the hex showing it is the updated regulator (72PSI, pn 1830915C91). (opposite end from the Schrader valve) Taking the FP regulator apart and cleaning it is not a bad idea as chunkies from injector o-rings will obstruct it.

2. Swap MAP and ICP sensors from a known good truck.

3. Swap CMP from a known good truck, or shim the one you have. If the CMP air gap is too small it will cause this exact complaint.

 

Do you have ISIS and the diag sheets (EGED 130 and 135)? I can send them to you if not.

 

Good Luck!

 

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HI, Bruce! I do have ISIS, sorry I didn't reply on that sooner. I will look at the regulator, as soon as it comes in tonight. I will also go after the ICP, MAP, and CMP sensors. I will also look at the filter screens at the heads, to see if they are there. Thanks again!

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Check the fuel pressure. It should be at least 60 psi at all times. Unplug the icp sensor - does the choppy idle/running go away? You guys do the inj install? If you unplug the cam sensor and crank it, does it crank even? Excessive blow bye?

 

You guys have me swamped with brown. Everywhere I look I see brown.

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blown99, I have the same problem! Brown everywhere! I'm going to come in on a saturday, and paint one of these bad boys red, and see if they notice! HAHA! As far as this truck goes, when I pulled it in, it was running smooth! I did replace the ICP sensor, which was starting to leak oil through the connector! We did install the injectors here. We lent our fuel pressure gauge to the stratford shop, but per Bruce, I checked the regulator, and it had the old style on it. I have a new filter housing, but it also has the old style. I found the 72psi regulator I had saved from another truck, and installed it. When I spoke to the driver today, he was only able to get 52 mph out of it, on the highway! After I finished with it, I was able to get 62 mph on the back road! So I will see how it does tomorrow. Thanks guys for all the help! p.s. Bruce, do you have the part numbers for the screens at the cyl. heads?

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