2006 LCF No power, barely runs

Frank_Edging · January 19, 2011

It was limped in at 10mph, and hardly starts wont go over 10mph, and has a slightly rough idle. I hooked up IDS and discovered that it wouldnt communicate, checked PTS and found tsb saying I needed different cable. Manager said hell no, we never work on them. I tried to tell customer to tow it to next closest properly equipped dealer which was his own town which was over 100 miles away. He said it would cost so much that if I could at least try to do something with it he'd pay cash(trucks still under warranty and I said we couldnt perform warranty work)I need the work so I said I'd take a shot and check the basics.

No engine lights or any other lights were on, didnt smoke, couldnt check codes or data obviously. I figured I'd check fuel pressure first. Flow tester at sec. housing showed 48 closed and 34psi open which I though was low, I check service info and found a 4 page mess of diag steps. Scanned through it and got the gist of it and looks like I should have 60-70psi at koeo, which I have barely half that. So I asked customer if he had noticed problems before failure, he said it seemed sluggish and added anti-gel since it was really cold, said it ran better for couple weeks then again sluggish, added the Diesel 911 additive, again was better couple weeks, now acting up again. I ordered a HFCM and I'm going to pull the regulator and check the spring and put new filters in it and see what happens....

...I was told on ford message boards that I should check the A/C comp cycling switch and CAC for sludging or full of oil....I havent pulled it back in yet so I'll do those when the pump comes in....just wondering if anyone has any other idea's I can check...

..I heard from advisor that the stupid service manager is going to try and get it covered under warranty. I dont know how the hell he's going to pull that off but I really dont want to get sucked into that mess...not to mention why the hell would we want to get warranty pay when the customer has already authorized the work on his dollar?

Keith Browning · January 19, 2011

You REALLY need the tools, even with the tools these trucks can sometimes be difficult. Without diagnostic equipment you are shooting blind. Here's a couple of things to check that won't cost a dime (other than time) before you order more stuff.

Check for a seized A/C COMPRESSOR or what looks like a burnt up compressor clutch.

REMOVE both fuel filters and inspect for debris in the housings. I have come across tank problems on LCF's similar to Super Duties.

Treat this like a 6.0L where the injectors are concerned on both the fuel and oil sides. If you have low fuel pressure and or crap in the system injector damage is likely. You can check for and identify a stuck injector by performing the Compression Bubble Test which is similar to the balloon test. Remove the primary fuel filter cap and top off the housing with fuel to cover the stand pipe. Crank the engine and look for air bubbles coming from the top of the stand pipe. If you see bubbles you have a struck injector somewhere. Remove one glow plug at a time and crank the engine, when the bubbles stop you have located the cylinder/injector. Oil leaks at the oil manifolds are VERY COMMON. The stand pipes and dummy plug o-rings have a high failure rate. I have seen the o-ring and plug leak on the left oil manifold where the ICP sensor would be if it were on the right bank - I had three trucks I can recall where that caused low power and only one had the Check Engine light on with a DTC.

Search your dealership for the IC4 Com interface module and cable. This is what we use(d) before the new $800 cable and software was released. You will need to find an older IDS disk to install MD Truck software if you find it.

Frank_Edging · January 19, 2011

thanks

Frank_Edging · January 21, 2011

got the hfcm in today, drained the hfcm, what came out was a very polluted rusty color with a bit of rusty debris in bottom of sample.

It has steel tank, should I pull tank for inspection? I looked under fill cap, by the cap was very rusty like water is getting in somehow, but the fill tube itself looked just fine.

Keith Browning · January 21, 2011

Classic. Yes, you will need to inspect the fuel tank by removing the pickup and at the very least run your fingers up under the top of the tank. A bad tank will feel rough and gritty. If this is the case you are looking at a new tank, HFCM, filters, pressure regulator and 6 injectors. I would also include the updated oil stand pipe and plug kit in my estimate.

Since there are several tank options in the LCF, we are talking about a 40 gallon stamped steel tank right?

Frank_Edging · January 21, 2011

Keith your probably right on all the above, but I made the decision to have it towed to equipped dealer.

I did get to re-ck fuel pressure after new pump and it wasnt any different, so regulator probly junk, wouldnt even start when I brought it in this morning and still wont.

idiot boss somehow got the fuel pump covered under warranty, I never punched in/out or wrote it up. Didnt even know about it till after the fact. I told him before that if it was going to be warranty I wouldnt touch it and he went and did it anyway, so I'm cutting my losses right now, I'm not doing one more damned thing to it. I dont understand why managers can be so stupid. I'm just going to wash my hands of this thing now. I told the boss I wasnt accepting any backflags on this truck because I made it clear up front I couldnt properly diag and was shooting in the dark.