Frank_Edging

We all know Ford has eroded tech pay for warranty work for years, and some say decades. This has to stop. The bleeding of technicians is going to become exponential after the 2017 cuts. We need to stand up and demand Ford stop stealing money from our pockets to give themselves and Ford employees ridiculous bonuses. We have families to feed, and our pay has went down in the past 15 years. These labor reductions are also erroneously eroding customer pay because the labor time companies such as Alldata and Mitchell all pull labor times from Ford and add a multiplier. Even with the multiplier we all know of many jobs that still dont pay properly. https://www.change.org/p/ford-motor-company-correct-ford-technician-pay

oh man, the learning curve never ends with these 6.0's does it.....lol, been at it 3 years and feel like an idiot still...

thanks I'll pass it on and I'm gonna get that fitting and check it out, I just happen to have one with valve covers coming off monday so maybe I'll have to pull a rail and if so I'll try this. Its an 03 and the only ones I've seen with bad rail orings were on 03 models

all of the orings I found described like that turned out to be the seal in the top of the injector and not the one on the oil rail.

someone on the dealer message boards was asking about it this past week and I told him about the kit I seen on ebay and I was asked about where to find it but when I went back I had no luck so now I'm looking like a "tool" instead of being helpful.....damnit...

when I seen it last week on ebay it was listed in a store, not an idividual so I'm not sure why I cant find it now, but when I do I'm going to share it with everyone I can. The listing had a kit of 8 o-rings and the tool for $49, and just the o-ring kit for $19, considering the stuff is top secret everywhere else I thought that was a great price. but I found it so easily that I didnt think I needed to save it or bookmark it. Apparently that was a big mistake.

I'm mad, last week I was on ebay searching through miscellaneos 6.0L stuff and came accross someone who sells o-ring kits with the hex socket needed to remove the nipples from the oil rail. He also had o-ring kits available if you had already bough the kit with the tool. Now this week I go back and I cant find the stuff anywhere. Does anyone know where I can get the o-rings and tool? Or at least the o-rings since I'm sure I could make the tool myself if I had to. I'm so irritated that I cant find it again. Havent seen it offered anywhere else and it could really be a great thing to have. Replacing the entire oil rail is bs when all it needs is o-rings.

I havent had one run away on me yet but I've thought about what I would do if it happenned, not sure I'd want to go running up to lift the hood and choke it out. I'd be afraid it would blow with my big head in the way. Keith you mentioned C02 extinguisher. Do you just spray it into the intake duct from outside the front grill? Does that kill it fast?

Keith your probably right on all the above, but I made the decision to have it towed to equipped dealer. I did get to re-ck fuel pressure after new pump and it wasnt any different, so regulator probly junk, wouldnt even start when I brought it in this morning and still wont. idiot boss somehow got the fuel pump covered under warranty, I never punched in/out or wrote it up. Didnt even know about it till after the fact. I told him before that if it was going to be warranty I wouldnt touch it and he went and did it anyway, so I'm cutting my losses right now, I'm not doing one more damned thing to it. I dont understand why managers can be so stupid. I'm just going to wash my hands of this thing now. I told the boss I wasnt accepting any backflags on this truck because I made it clear up front I couldnt properly diag and was shooting in the dark.

got the hfcm in today, drained the hfcm, what came out was a very polluted rusty color with a bit of rusty debris in bottom of sample. It has steel tank, should I pull tank for inspection? I looked under fill cap, by the cap was very rusty like water is getting in somehow, but the fill tube itself looked just fine.

If your only taking 1 class at night it should be easy. Taking 2 or more while working full time is when it starts cutting into your life. I have been in college 1/2 time for a few years and depending on the class's I'm in, it can be a real pain. English 341 was miserable, but most career class's arent that hard and have little homework. I was in a welding class couple years ago and it was cake, bit of reading but not too bad. One of the easiest class's I have taken. Too bad all welding isnt as easy as the controlled environment of a classroom where you can afford to make mistakes and always have optimal conditions.

For those of you who work on MD Diesel trucks, where do you get your training at? Ford? International? ??? I'm just curious if we (as Ford tech's in general)have access to the MD Diesel training somewhere. Is there another website or something we have to go to....if I wanted to study up a bit, where should I go...please dont say college, I'm already in college working on my bachelor's degree and have about 25 credits left to go so I'm not really interested in going back again anytime soon. College used to be easy but a wife,3 kids, and full time job later I find 1/2 time difficult to keep up with.

Heres my work connection, not sure I've ever seen the upload speed faster, bit strange, but not too bad overall since its over Wifi G network at about 120 ft away with laptop built in wifi antenna

I just use my matco sb8586 belt tool, use the 3/8" end, put a 3/8 to 1/2" 1 inch adapter on it and its the perfect length...although I'm sure your tool was cheaper and probably a bit slimmer... ..although most of the time I dont even use the tool. Just use 18" 3/8" extension on alternator bolt holes, hold belt over alt pulley and use extension to rotate alt. in place and put in bolts. makes alt r&r about a 3 minute job.

thanks

I finally got the file downloaded about 12:30 last night and used 7zip to open it, worked fine and opened good. Thanks for checking it though, I guess it must having something to do with the security on the network here at the shop.

It was limped in at 10mph, and hardly starts wont go over 10mph, and has a slightly rough idle. I hooked up IDS and discovered that it wouldnt communicate, checked PTS and found tsb saying I needed different cable. Manager said hell no, we never work on them. I tried to tell customer to tow it to next closest properly equipped dealer which was his own town which was over 100 miles away. He said it would cost so much that if I could at least try to do something with it he'd pay cash(trucks still under warranty and I said we couldnt perform warranty work)I need the work so I said I'd take a shot and check the basics. No engine lights or any other lights were on, didnt smoke, couldnt check codes or data obviously. I figured I'd check fuel pressure first. Flow tester at sec. housing showed 48 closed and 34psi open which I though was low, I check service info and found a 4 page mess of diag steps. Scanned through it and got the gist of it and looks like I should have 60-70psi at koeo, which I have barely half that. So I asked customer if he had noticed problems before failure, he said it seemed sluggish and added anti-gel since it was really cold, said it ran better for couple weeks then again sluggish, added the Diesel 911 additive, again was better couple weeks, now acting up again. I ordered a HFCM and I'm going to pull the regulator and check the spring and put new filters in it and see what happens.... ...I was told on ford message boards that I should check the A/C comp cycling switch and CAC for sludging or full of oil....I havent pulled it back in yet so I'll do those when the pump comes in....just wondering if anyone has any other idea's I can check... ..I heard from advisor that the stupid service manager is going to try and get it covered under warranty. I dont know how the hell he's going to pull that off but I really dont want to get sucked into that mess...not to mention why the hell would we want to get warranty pay when the customer has already authorized the work on his dollar?

I'm in the same boat right now, I have a LCF out back that came in Monday with no power, wouldnt hardly move, I could mash the pedal and not hit 10mph, seems to have a slightly rough idle, and really struggled to start. No engine lights or any other lights, hooked up IDS just to find that it wont communicate, checked PTS and found tsb about needing Nav-Link cable at $800, manager says no way, we never work on those trucks, its just a truck passing through which broke down. Tried advising the customer to tow it to a dealer with proper equipment but he more or less said he rather gamble and let me do my best and order what I though would fix it. I need the work so I tried to check some basics on the thing. I will post a seperate topic about it so I dont hijack your topic, but I can say that I feel your pain, its a pain in the ass to diag something without the computer.

This is what I call a rip off...and they charge $60 month for this junk...

Well if it worked for you then hopefully its just an issue with the server at the shop, they had a virus wipe out the body shop computer and they had the IT guy do something to the internet so now a lot of sites and content are blocked, perhaps thats the issue even though I can get on this site without a problem, maybe they have disabled zip files through that connection or something. I guess I'll find out when this file finishing downloading, tonight hopefully, its going painfully slow at 20K/sec since I'm on my sprint wifi card and have poor reception here. Damned AT&T shut me off yesterday. I guess I'm supposed to pay the bill once in a while or something....lol...I'll get to them eventually...for now they have to take a number and wait...

Well I'm at home now, going to try again. I have 2 computers at home so out of 4 computers if it wont download and open I'd say there is probably an issue with the file. If it helps any I have Vista Basic on my toolbox computer,XP pro on shop computer, Vista Premium on both here at the house, I have an XP home sp3 loaned out right now, I could always go to my sisters house to use my own pc if its a platform issue...lol

I have downloaded the zip file for the 4.5L engine several times and everything seems to be fine but I cant open the file. I have 7zip program and it says file missing or corrupt, I downloaded winzip to be sure, and it says the same, I looked around the net and all I could find was info saying I should retry the download again, however I've already tried 3 times on 2 seperate computers with no luck. Can anyone help me out on this. I really need the book.