Brad Clayton Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 Quote: X.com no google here buddy EXCELLENT!!! You old coot. Been doing interweb business for a while I see. Here's your cookie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregH Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 What is it with e-vans having lifters take a dump? the last few engines we have had with lifters getting ate by the cam have been in vans There seems to be more heat retention from the body style - makes the plastics more brittle. Also, the lifter guides on these things are really weak. The last one I had I was still able to remove the damaged lifter through the bottom. I held the lifter in the guide outside the engine and found that it would turn easily within the guide. The other lifters in the engine were just about able to spin in their guides, too. So if #8 hadn't have failed on mine, it would have been another one soon... I include guides on these engines if the heads have to come off for any reason... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 Quote: I include guides on these engines if the heads have to come off for any reason... Nice find. I will definetely note that for my future dealings with these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordMastertech Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 I haven't seen any fail with that low of a mileage but get lots of E series shuttle buses and ambulances around the 125000 to 150000 mile mark. They have a lot of low speed driving and lots of idle time as the hour meters that were installed were reading 15000 to 18000 hrs. I don't strip the top of the engine down like Ford says you have to do to remove them, actually I don't remove anything major from the top except the exhaust down pipe and trans dip stick tube. I remove both oil pans, oil filter housing, motor mounts and frame brackets, AC compressor and power steering pump. The engine will slide right out using a bracket I made and the shops fork lift. I feel the E series engines come out easier than the F series. Taking my time engine removal is under 4 hrs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 Interesting approach. The way to get the engine out is to effectively make it "shorter" so this will work too. I just hate working on my back. I have done lower pans on Econolines which is not bad. I just never thought you could leave the top end alone and pull the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshbuys Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 I don't strip the top of the engine down like Ford says you have to do to remove them, actually I don't remove anything major from the top except the exhaust down pipe and trans dip stick tube. I remove both oil pans, oil filter housing, motor mounts and frame brackets, AC compressor and power steering pump. The engine will slide right out using a bracket I made and the shops fork lift. I feel the E series engines come out easier than the F series. Taking my time engine removal is under 4 hrs. This is how I pull them on a truck, It's been a while since I worked on a van, but I think I'll try this on the next one I have to pull!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordMastertech Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 If you look in the shop manual for E series 6.0 engine removal the only real reason they want you to strip the top of the engine down it to put a support bar in place that goes from the engine support adapter, that bolts to the lower front of the engine, to the right rear of the engine. A chain from the heads using a come a long to the fork lift will do the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted October 3, 2011 Author Share Posted October 3, 2011 If you look in the shop manual for E series 6.0 engine removal the only real reason they want you to strip the top of the engine down it to put a support bar in place that goes from the engine support adapter, that bolts to the lower front of the engine, to the right rear of the engine. A chain from the heads using a come a long to the fork lift will do the same thing. Right. And I use that adapter. I think if you use a fork lift you don't need a rear support if you lift the engine from underneath. I am guessing that guys who have done this might pick the engine up with the forks under the exhaust manifolds and heads... just speculating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Mutter Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 The engine will slide right out using a bracket I made and the shops fork lift. Do you have a picture of this bracket? Or I picture of you taking the engine out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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