Keith Browning Posted June 21, 2016 Share Posted June 21, 2016 I read the WSM on removing the oil pan - partial cab lift. OK, that is all well and good but this JCP&L truck is a special case because of extensive corrosion. I am seriously concerned that I will have extensive problems as a result. So my question for you Gents is has anyone successfully done this leaving the cab right where it is? I am looking at this and thinking removing the upper shroud, CAC tubes, turbo shield and oil supply line and whatever I need to move or disconnect. Will I be able to jack this engine up enough? I feel sick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 A long time ago didn't Brad post how to do one of these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbriggs Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 If it is an auto truck it can be done. If it is a standard trans the pan hangs up on the two lower bolt bosses on the rear cover. I had a guy spin his drain plug bung loose inside the pan. (it was a standard trans) After telling him about this, he sawed the two bolt bosses off and brought it back to have the pan changed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Bruene Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 I do them without the WSM partial cab lift, but I do tilt the cab slightly... I remove the body bolts, minus the rear row and jack the cab up just enough to slip a 4x4 between the front of the body and the frame. The only things I disconnect are the negative battery cables, hot side CAC duct at the CAC and unpin the lower radiator hose from the rad support. It allows for more than enough room to get all the bolts and the pan, but you need to remove the pick-up tube before the pan will fit out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmorris Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 Agree with Alex. I tried once with out tilting the cab and it just wouldn't clear. That extra 2 inches you gain with the tilt is the key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 I do them without the WSM partial cab lift, but I do tilt the cab slightly... I remove the body bolts, minus the rear row and jack the cab up just enough to slip a 4x4 between the front of the body and the frame. The only things I disconnect are the negative battery cables, hot side CAC duct at the CAC and unpin the lower radiator hose from the rad support. It allows for more than enough room to get all the bolts and the pan, but you need to remove the pick-up tube before the pan will fit out. This is the approach I will likely take. The pick up tube is no big deal. This is one of those jobs you need to try to quote all the extra shit that is rusted out that is going to break or require replacement "just because." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mchan68 Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 I hope you're quoting new bolts as well. If the pan is that rusted out, I can't imagine the bolts will come out easily without a few of them on the verge of rounding out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/4088-64l-oil-pan-removal/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bpan+%2Breplacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted June 23, 2016 Author Share Posted June 23, 2016 And there we go! Now my only task is to locate a good turbo socket set... I used to borrow a really nice Snap-On set but the guy that had it no longer works with us. I have been in broke-ass budget mode for the last 10 years and have an aversion to spending money... this is a hard habit to overcome now that things have improved for me with the wife returning to work after 14 years. Second problem - I FUCKING HATE my Snap-On dealer. I should just order direct and leave him out of the picture. DONE! Cant fix trucks without tools right? This is the set. https://store.snapon.com/122TSTY-Fractional-MetricTwist-Impact-Socket-Set-Set-Socket-Impact-Twist-SAE-Metric-1-4-drive-22-pc-P644174.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Saunoras Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 I have that same set and I love it! Consider establishing good relations with your snap on guy. I frequently get those same sockets warrantied out when they don't bite anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted June 23, 2016 Share Posted June 23, 2016 That is a damn good set. A guy at my old shop has a set, I use to wear em out for him. I moved to the South now I don't need em anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Browning Posted July 1, 2016 Author Share Posted July 1, 2016 Ok. I did this Brads way and it works. So why the fuck does the WSM tell you to remove the turbos? Note: There is a hole in the cross member that allows access to the pan bolt under the trans line bracket and I always jack these engines up by the flat sides of the rear of the block rear cover therefore I never disconnected any of the steering. I also just bent the trans line bracket away from the engine a little. No need to mess with that either. Just remember to bend it back. Brad, you are a fucking joker aren't you! Just pry on the sliding part of the left engine mount my ass Mr funny man!. That thing was rusted in SOLID!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Clayton Posted July 2, 2016 Share Posted July 2, 2016 Bahahahahahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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