66glide

Its a trend started with the Pinto!

Gravy grabber! Nothing changes! I learned from the best Bahahaha.

Gravy grabber! Nothing changes!

A buddy of mine tried to "fix" his stiction by sanding his spool valves. What he didn't know was that you're only supposed to sand the ends to remove any varnish and restore the surface. He sanded the 2 lands in the middle and ended up with a truck that would stall when hot from a lack of ICP. It is definitely possible to have a leak here. Been there, done that!

Yes. My CEL stayed off all winter.

This one had no tune. I think it was P0401...I'd have to look...it was the "no EGR flow detected code," and not a valve position code.

I recently did a Dorman cooler mess like that. To give Dorman some credit, they paid $1950.00 in parts and labor toward the bill despite being over the one year warranty period. Still, I hate Dorman.

I just removed the EGR delete from my own 2006 F250 6.0L and installed an aftermarket cooler. (no, not Dorman)...I got tired of seeing that check engine light. I am wondering about software/fueling strategy on these trucks when they command EGR and do not see flow. The first thing that stood out after installing an EGR cooler was how clean the exhaust became! I realize EGR is there to reduce oxides of nitrogen, but...WOW!! My wife always complained about my "stinky truck". I have to admit, it was not pleasant to stand around this idling truck because of the smell. So, I was doing a KOER test with IDS and while it was running I got out for a walkaround, leak check etc. I thought, "wait...something is different"?! I walked around near the tailpipe thinking, WTF? I can't smell it. I actually bent over and stuck my nose near the exhaust. Just WAAAYYY cleaner! I was not expecting this dramatic change. I only wanted my CE light out. Now I'm just wondering the theory behind it!

I gotta ask...I don't know how much wear is common, but the fulcrum tips of ALL the rocker arms (where they contact the valve bridges), are badly worn and spalled...so bad that one is missing the little metal clip that holds the tip in. (I can't find it, so it's somewhere in the engine). I'm gonna report it to the customer...could cause bad things to happen in the future yes?

Brad, can you elaborate? Valve not opening due to carbon?

This '08 came in with a complaint of popping underhood and no power. IDS showed a bad cylinder contribution on #8, and slight drop on #3 and #6. #6 and #8 both showed 3% drop and 6% drop respectively on relative compression tests. Here is the #8 exhaust rocker: Oddly the #8 INTAKE pushrod was bent also. My plan is to replace rocker arms, bridges, pushrods, fuel supply tubes etc., But I began wondering about lifter condition, and the cause of the bent intake pushrod. First I used an elastic band around the lower cover bolts to hold the top of the pushrods "up" toward the center of the engine. I then barred over until both pushrods were "down" (lifters sitting on the base circle of the cam. Then I took a rough measurement from the top of the pushrod to the lower cover lip...both were about 2.623". This was a rough measurement because of space limitations, but hopefully enough to tell me there is no terrible lifter/cam wear. I then installed a dial indicator with the tip on top of each pushrod, zeroed it with the lifter on the base circle, then barred the engine over and watched the lift as the pushrods came up. Both intake and exhaust showed about .220" lift on each pushrod. Based on these measurements, I'm thinking the lifters/lobes are ok. (or they are both worn almost exactly equally...unlikely). I'd appreciate your educated opinions! Is there something I'm overlooking?

The root cause of the problem aside, there are far too many "technicians" out there who really should not be in this industry.

Do you have service info on checking injector return flow? If this is the same 6.7 used in the new dodge pickups, I can look up diagnostic info @ work tomorrow.

The first thing to check is the fuel filter. Next is the low side (supply) pressure.

Damn...I replied inside the quote bubble...see last paragraph.

DITTO!!! Might I add no stupid "ever since you ..." claims by the customer as well. Ha. Haaa...the dreaded "eversinceya"!! I once had a customer claim that "ever since" I replaced his front brake pads and rotors, his ABS doesn't work. I asked him if his ABS light is on...he said "no". It had been a year since I did the brake job. I went out to investigate...hmmm...the ABS light does not prove out with the ignition on. I looked inside the front wheels...no wheel speed sensors!! (turns out his '91 Taurus was not equipped with ABS). He thought the bad brake pulsation he was experiencing because of warped rotors before I did the reline was proper ABS braking function! He thought I was trying to put one over on him when I explained that his car does not have ABS, and no amount of explaining would convince the crusty old #$$%! Finally, I just told him to take his car to another garage, and bring me the bill so that I could pay whatever it took to fix his ABS. Never heard from him again!

I found it to be a relatively easy trans to do. I added a shift kit for durability. I get great satisfaction from doing trans rebuilds. I don't do enough to claim to be an expert, I just like doing them! What's your favorite work?

Orange/red sticker.

This thread got me thinking...I bought my '06 equipped with an EGR delete. In the summer. it would always turn on the CEL with an associated EGR flow code. I am going to install a bulletproof EGR cooler at some point, and have no interest in changing to aftermarket "tuning". The odd thing is, the EGR codes will NEVER set in the winter! I've been driving it since the cold weather set in with no code set. I'd love to hear opinions on what the software strategy is on EGR monitoring in cold temps.

Hey, thanks. I was under the impression it was "buildup" on the spool lands. Good to know for next time. (grin)

That makes sense. I want to do some measurements to see just how far the wix goes into the housing and verify it can't interfere with the valve. Either way, the Ford filter O-ring seal inspires more confidence than the Wix system.

Ok, this is embarrasing...but here goes. My own trucks only complaint was morning sickness too. I decided to try this on bank 2 because #4 and #6 showed the most drop when cold on IDS. I used 1000 grit sandpaper to lightly polish the spool valves because I thought 600 was too coarse for such delicate work. Now somewhere on the youtube video, it is mentioned that he is careful to only sand the OUTER lands of the spool. Well, in all my wisdom, I decided a little polish with 1000 grit on ALL the lands would not hurt! It started and ran perfect, till it warmed up and stalled. The injectors were pouring so much oil through the returns, I had a hot stall with no restart till it cooled down. Anyway, now I have four Ford reman injectors in there and the later standpipe/dummy plugs! It runs like a top...just cost more than I set out! You make a better Macgyver than me! Still, being my own truck, I'd try it again, minus the idiocy on my part!

I have a 33899 Wix filter pictured next to the proper Ford filter for an '06 F250. Here is a pic of the inside of the HFCM. The Ford filter has a cylindrical protrusion with an O-ring that seals in the inner bore at the far end of the HFCM. The Wix has a flat rubber gasket and needs to "butt up" against the far end. You can see how the Ford filter does not seat as far in as the wix. There is a small "flap valve" that can be seen on the RH side of the HFCM inside. I sweat the flat surface of the Wix filter interferes in this area causing either leakage past the primary filter or interfering with that small valve. Two questions... What is the purpose of that valve? Has anyone else run into this? In the past, I always felt the last turn or so of the filter cover when installing a Wix felt...not quite right. I wish I looked harder at the differences a long time ago, but I did not. I am located in a rural area, and have always liked the quality of Wix, and they are easy to source locally. I have not used their hokey oil filters with the combined cap on the 6.0L for awhile, and now likely will not use these fuel filters. Opinions? The Wix rep has been notified. I am waiting to hear what they have to say.