GregH

Since I'm pretty tall, I take the front wheels off and drop the lower balljoints onto 4x4 blocks of wood. Brings the top of the grill down to waist height...

I've been assigned to an 04 f-250 with a repeat headgasket failure. The owner abuses the truck, and it is equipped with a 120hp programmer. It is repeatedly overloaded and pulls excessive weight at high speed. Classic case for warranty denial, but I'm in a tight spot. Management says fix it under warranty, and I like this dealer enough to do what they wish. My question is what can I do to this truck to make it stand up to higher than rated loads? I don't want to re-engineer the truck, but I had thought about putting in customer-supplied head studs and getting a quote on having fire rings added to it. Management will stand behind the modifications and cover my ass, as long as the modifications will fix his problems. I know that I'm in the right if I raise a red flag with Ford. But this dealer has been very good to me (see my post about moving to a new dealer under the water cooler forum) and this isn't a deal breaker. I've resigned myself to repairing it under warranty - I'm just trying to get a little more life out of the truck. So what do you think? Headstuds? Fire rings? Something else? Thanks for the input. -Greg

It came off of tech-to-tech on fmcdealer.com under the heading "new 6.4l information." The whole thread and another related thread (both started by the same person) were deleted. I don't recall who posted it, and my post was a verbatim copy of his entire post. There were no sources identified, and subsequent searches of the web turned up nothing of this sort. So, I dunno. Could be a load of crap, or it could be a copy of some internal memo or an early version of a service procedure...

Oh, and I might add that a few hours after the above was posted, the thread was deleted by their webmistress...

Here's something I found on Ford's website in their message board section... Sorry for the poor formatting. I can't verify the source, of course, so take it with a grain of salt. ------------------------------------------------- 6.4L P356 Overview Electrical New ECM: Integrates injector control ? separate FICM no longer required. Baro Sensor Internal to ECM. 80 V Injector control internal to ECM. ECM mounted in right upper bulkhead above engine. New ECM bracket/shield to meet Canadian anti-theft requirements. Separate Transmission Control Module (TCM) means that ECM only has two connections, and there is only one engine harness for both Automatic and Manual transmission. EBP and MAP Sensors are new, connector is carryover. CKP and CMP are carryover All temperature sensors with the exception of the IAT2 (manifold IAT) are carryover FRP fuel rail pressure sensor is NOT carryover EGCOT and EGCIT (Exhaust Gas Cooler Outlet/Inlet Temp) have different temperature ratings and are not interchangeable Glow Plug Control Module: Completely carryover from 6.0L. Heat shield that covers GPCM MUST be reinstalled after service. Glow plugs- draw ½ the current of previous applications.- new glow plug sleeve special service tool Glow plug buss bar: Separate harness for glow plugs only. Harness is outside the valve cover. Has integrated seal for both valve cover and glow plug well. Fuel injector release tool for interference-fit injector connectors: There is no release tab on the connectors to disconnect them. Injector connectors are under the valve cover. High Pressure Pump has separate jumper so PCV and VCV (Pressure/Volume Control Valve) can be probed without removal of heat shields. Engine Wiring Harness no longer contains fusible links for the GPCM. These are now fuses contained within the PDB. These circuits also run through the 12A581 harness as well as through the engine harness for the 6.4L. Harness has two "troughs" designed to house and guide main body of the wiring through the center of the engine area. Harness has "candy striping" to indicate injector circuits with HIGH VOLTAGE (80 V supply voltage, up to 200 V "flyback" voltage). Engine harness connects only to the primary alternator so there is only one service level of the harness for all vehicles. All retention points of the harness serve the purpose of routing the harness properly and keeping it away from components that can chafe, overheat or otherwise damage it. They MUST be reinstalled after service. New Scan Tool PID List Scan Tool Device Controls TURBOCHARGER Two Stage Variable Geometry-VTG Turbocharger (VTG) 1st stage fixed low pressure, 2nd stage VTG. Each turbo and actuator serviced separately. Electronically Controlled "Smart" Turbocharger Actuator VGT. Actuator uses Controller Area Network (CAN) Communication via ECM. Brushless DC Motor with Drive Gears Non-Contacting Position Sensor Diagnosis-Scan Tool Turbo Performance Check. Understand interaction of back pressure with DPF Lifting Tool-For proper precision when removing and installing turbo assembly. Also keeps proper alignment of the HP/LP turbo (must be used as it will create an exhaust leak between the two turbos) Turbo Lifting Bracket: Used to R&I turbo assembly with engine hoist while maintaining proper turbo orientation. FUEL SYSTEM Fuel Supply System (Low Pressure System) Larger ½ inch lines are used with a stand alone, cooling loop. Larger capacity water filtering in HFCM. ECM controlled Cooling Loop for new Fuel Return Flow Path-pump begins circulation at 10ºC, Engine cooling fan speed can be increased if fuel temp is above 70ºC. Engine power can be reduced if fuel temp is above 90ºC. Fuel Temp Sensor Location in fuel filter module Chassis to Filter fuel lines has a specific assembly procedure that must be followed Must use Evac fill system for the fuel cooling system (cooling loop) will not purge air naturally Filter to Pump installation must follow specific assembly procedure (rotate to engage properly) LP fuel test with IDS and VMM Filter to HP pump fuel line is critical for cleanliness High Pressure Common Rail (HPCR) Injection System New Fuel Injection System Components HP fuel pump and cover- no service on pressure and volume control valves- pump replacement only. HP fuel pump cover lower gasket with integrated electrical connector HP fuel pump cover upper gasket HP tubes (injector feed)- deformation seal-replace whenever serviced-torque plus angle tightening. HP tube (pump left) deformation seal-replace whenever serviced-torque plus angle tightening. HP tube (pump right) deformation seal-replace whenever serviced-torque plus angle tightening. Fuel Rail Assembly left Fuel Rail Assembly right Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. (Located in right fuel rail.) Piezo actuated injectors. Specific service procedures- torque, o-rings and gasket. Piezo Injector Actuation Technology allows for multiple injection events and improves combustion for quieter operation. Injector wiring harness- has two larger 13 pin connectors at ends of rocker arm carriers. Performance Tests-Pressure sweep (26,000 psi) for High Pressure Fuel System leak Testing during service. Cleanliness of high pressure system is critical, use of fuel caps must be stressed whenever a high pressure tube or fuel supply line from filter to pump are removed. Do NOT reuse any high pressure fuel jumper tubes in the fuel system, this includes the tubes from the high pressure pump to rail and fuel rail to injector jumper High pressure jumper tube torque is critical to sealing integrity Diagnostics ? Turbo oil supply block off plug kit allows running of the engine with Turbo off to verify HPP or HPP lines repair integrity before complete reassembly of the engine. Special Service Tools-injector sleeve remover, injector sleeve installer (new injector design) fuel injector sleeve brush, fuel system caps, fuel injector cups, fuel injector connector disconnect tool, fuel line adaptor (fuel inlet and return lines diameter change) EXHAUST SYSTEM Up-pipes with new bellows/expansion joint design. ? Do not bend/twist bellows, assembly order is critical for EGR/Turbo-up pipe assembly ? oxidation catalyst in the EGR pipe EGR exhaust pipe bracket to the cylinder head is critical must be properly assembled and replaced for cooler function - The bracket on the EDOC pipe to the cylinder head must be replaced properly during reinstallation or the cooler will fail ASSEMBLY ORDER IS CRITICAL- assembly procedure minimizes assembly gaps and strain on bellows/expansion joints EGR Catalyst- Special Service Procedures- Fastener replacement upon removal. Exhaust Manifold ? do not reuse fasteners or gasket ? DO NOT mix 6.0L and 6.4L fasteners different material, different locking mechanism. Assembly sequence for manifold fasteners Downpipe Diesel Oxidation Catalyst (DOC) Active Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) Resonator Tailpipe Aftertreatment System Significant Emissions Reduction DOC DPF ECM EGT Sensors Delta P Sensor Manual Regeneration-Customer Procedure EGR SYSTEM EGR is now used in over 80% of 6.4L engine operation modes to meet emissions requirements. Increased flow rates of EGR require 2 EGR Coolers to meet exhaust gas cooling requirements. The purpose of the EGR Catalyst is to improve performance and to reduce fouling of the EGR coolers. EGR Valve-New design of valve has features that promote self cleaning of the valve surfaces. EGR flow capacity is also increased. Valve is water cooled. EGR valve open/close force increased. EGR Valve Puller EGR Valve Puller: Assembled View EGR Valve Puller: Disassembled View EGR Catalyst-The location of the EGR catalyst is upstream of the two EGR coolers. It is integral and serviced with the left up-pipe. EGR Coolers 1(horizontal) and 2 (vertical)-Special Service Procedures for bracket and straps on both Coolers. EGR Coolers 1 and 2 ?Test Plates-block off tool tools for diagnosis. EGR Cooler Pressure Test Plates: Used to pressurize the EGR coolers to diagnose leaks. EGR Coolers 1 and 2 and EDOC pipe-must follow assembly procedure to prevent assembly gap and damaging strain to EGR bellow or exhaust piping bellows. The EDOC pipe bracket is critical for the durability of EGR cooler 1 without it the vibration and thermal growth can damage cooler 1. Exhaust Gas Cooler Inlet Temperature Sensor-Monitors EGR gas temperature into coolers. (located in right up- pipe) Exhaust Gas Cooler Outlet Temperature Sensor-Monitors EGR gas temperature out of coolers. Engine Assembly-Long block Crankshaft-Longer stroke and larger snout. Cylinder head-New injector configuration, no high pressure oil manifolds. Injector return passage through head. Rocker Arm Carrier-A thirteen pin electrical connector is located at the front of each carrier. Valve cover-Smaller because of lack of high pressure oil manifolds. Timing Cover-Incorporates two thermostats for more coolant volume. Also has connections for EGR coolers and heater core. Cooling System-40% increase in performance. Engine Assembly-Cooling and misc dUAL EGR COOLERS AND PLUMBING Plastic heater tubes/degas tube snap to connect radiator hose fittings new breather dual thermostates fuel cooling loop constant tension worm gear clamps (can not use standard worm gear) ------------------------------------------------- Wish I had the pictures to go with it, though....

I changed dealers about 2 months ago, and let me tell you.... I didn't know working on trucks could be like this! Respect, encouragement, feedback, competitive pay... The benefits go on and on! I came from a dealer in my hometown that was, a few years ago, small. Then they decided to expand their business and move to an old Lowe's building. They increased their square footage by a factor of 10. 50 new cars on the showroom floor and it still looks empty. 70 stalls for 6 technicians. Room to spare, to say the least. But, they lost their soul when they moved. It was slow, and quiet, but many of the things we enjoyed slipped by the wayside. It became more and more difficult to separate home from work. The spouse noticed the changes, too. The answer to "how was your day" changed from "ok" "good" and "not bad" to "over." Management systematically took away everything that made work enjoyable. Even so far as to break up conversations with groups of three or more! Cameras were installed in the shop - not to protect us from customer claims but so management could monitor us. It became a fight with them everyday. Shop meetings became bitch sessions. Internet access was monitored and filtered - no entertainment oriented sites allowed. In fact, we had to fight to maintain e-mail access (for hotline surveys only!) We even got together - as technicians - to lay out a few requests and put them into writing. Things like equipment repair and upgrade, consideration for pay raises, performance reviews, etc. We recieved a scathing written reply saying essentially that they won't be bullied, and if you don't like how it is, hit the road. Needless to say, morale took a hit. It all came to a head when - on a slow day - we observed the service manager playing online poker. Well, it took about 30 seconds worth of discussion to decide to photograph the service manager, and I was elected as the photographer. The picture was taken, all the techs had a good laugh at management's expense, and we all went back to work. Two hours later, a meeting was called, and the manager put me on an involuntary leave of absence until furthur notice. The rest of the techs stepped up and claimed their part in the fun, but the manager didn't falter. I locked my toolbox and headed home. On the way, I made a few calls. Before I got home, I had two job offers, and a full day of interviews for the following day. I went with the one I thought was best. Let me tell you, this place is great! I'm seeing an increase in hours (about 25%) and an increase in per hour pay. Respect - I didn't realize how long I'd worked without it until I got it back. My replies to "how was your day" are ususally a surprised "really, really good!" This dealer is 60 miles from home, but I'm in a carpool.... Lots of time to "decompress" before hitting the house. My advise: Keep your options open. Stay abreast of how the situation is at other dealers. And don't be afraid to change employers. I'm all for employer loyalty - just don't get abused by it. Ahhhh... time to get back to work...

My gosh, where to begin... Had my first fuel in oil 6.0 years ago. Took me 3 days to finally pull the oil dipstick and figure it out. I went rounds with an intermittant "dies while driving" and "spin no start." After a FICM, FICM harness, engine harness overlay, engine harness replacement, FICM relay repin and replace, it turned out to be a loose fitting fuse under the dash. I put pushrods in upside down on my first head gasket job. It's amazing how fast the cab comes back off... I cracked a 4wd motor and contact plate during an 04b24. I discovered that it takes exactly 4 minutes and 34 seconds to blow off the heater hose by the alterntor if you don't put the clamp on - just enough time to pull out onto the highway. Dual batteries will power an f-250 for 89 miles before going dead if the nut on the right battery positive clamp isn't tight. Oh, and don't snug it up with your fingers on the side of the road - it's hot. (this one wasn't me) Front companion flange bolts on the rear driveshaft can be installed from the wrong direction. It will cause a vibration and pound the hell out of the floorpan when it does come free at 45mph. "but it is easier to put your impact on them from that direction!" Faulty map sensors can lead you to replace the turbo twice before you screw your head on straight and figure out the problem. Well, I'm officially embarassed.

Once you go into acive commands and turn on the fuel pump, you can disconnect the scan tool and use it on another vehicle. The fuel pump will remain on until the key is turned off. Good for the "oops, I filled my truck all the way up with gas" ones.

If you want to see rust, try getting a reverse sun gear shell... I had to order 3 before I got one that I could clean up.

The EGR flow is calculated by the temperature difference between IAT1 and IAT2. The backpressure is calculated by taking MAF and subtracting EGR flow. Backpressure can still be calculated without a MAF by taking RPM and MGP and subtracting out EGR.

yea... .2 for a cmp swap if you've got a 340 and 344... smells like another dpfe recall that the main shop people were complaining about...

Forget the wait time... Spray the clamps down, run the nuts off and retrieve the t-bolt. Then give it a sharp rap with a dull air chisel on the turbo housing. If you're only replacing the y-pipe, rap on the y-pipe instead of the turbo.

If all else fails, remove everything attatched to the turbo - y-pipe clamp, cac tube, oil feed, etc. and the two easy bolts to get out. Then put a long prybar into the turbo outlet. Pry it up off the pedestal, then push the bar towards the driver's side of the vehicle. The bolt will snap off flush with the turbo and the pedestal will be undamaged. I assume you're replacing the turbo?