LR Mike

Here's the pic of the leak. This sooted up the back of the head and little else (until I looked close after I found it, of course) The basic idle reading on the MAP didn't actually change that much, BUT the EGR test now showed a full 1PSI increase, and the difference at idle was enough to allow the VGT to learn properly! I believe the fact that the VGT was unlearned had some effect on the EGR test, though I can't prove it. I can't see how this caused the turbo to slow that much, but maybe Anyway - on to the next headache! - next up another LCF..... Thanks again everyone - awesome response!

UNREAL! A small (and I mean small) hole in the Y-pipe! Installed a new Y-pipe, let it warm up, KOEO and make sure no DTC's, and began to learn right away! Test drove and boost all day long! It passes the EGR test now, too - 15.5 on the MAP during the idle section of the test vs 14.5-14.7 before. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crybaby2.gif Think I'll head home and /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif Thanks for all the help guys - I'll see if I can get a pic of it on Monday.

That was one of threads I was looking for! Thanks! I checked everything over top to bottom again earlier, from under the truck there is soot evident on the left head, so I'm in the process of removing the y-pipe now. Fingers crossed!

OK, baro and MAP at KOEO indicate 14.9 PSI, KOER at idle MAP is 14.5 or so. Maybe I'm reading too much into this part, but with this figure the truck won't complete the IDS EGR test - it needs to see a little of 15 to run the test. I made an adaptor to measure pressure at the intake to cold side tube elbow, only about 1/2 lb of boost at 1200 RPM, VGT 85%. We pulled the CAC cooler this AM and inspected - not restricted, no oil no unseen leaks, so back to the board! I'm pulling hte down pipe now to retest, not sure what I'll see.... As for the injectors, oil level is correct. Ever so slightly over the full mark, but we use bulk oil here and the lube dudes havea tendancy to not recheck after they fill, so not surpprised. Maybe we'll end up there, but the turbo I took off still spun freely, just a lot of oil in the exhaust side. I'll check the IAT2, but not sure how this will effect the boost? Also, fuel filters were replaced - haven't check fuel pressure yet, but would this give me the low boost?

Good idea, I already checked an it has a 'fake' - just an open hole! Maybe nothing, but the truck had a dead cluster when it got here (not a complaint, of course) blown fuse. replaced it to clear all the DTC's and try to get the VGT to learn. P0603 when it got here, but I don't remember seeing it since.

Good morning, all! I know I've read this on here somewhere before, but I can't find it. I have an 03 F550, 77K miles. It won't boost 90% of the time, and the VGT LRN is NO. Once, I hammered it hard, it blew black smoke, no power, then grabbed and had boost like normal. Operated OK for less than 5 minutes, then back to nothing. Checked and tried to clean the turbo - very oily, and rusted under the vanes on the housing - new turbo installed (with drain tube). Rechecked EGR - clean and clear (less than 8K miles old) light deposits in intake, but nothing blocked. I tried the EGR test on IDS, but it fails for low MAP every time (under 15psi KOER). The MAP and BARO match. Substituted anoth MAP - no change. T fitted a gauge to MAP line, and it indicated exactly what the PID displays - a vacuum idle! The fitting is clear, and I can feel boost at the elbow - even the CAC tubes move and the boots swell when RPM pushed up! Now I'm at a loss - I'm thinking intake plugged, but where? Any ideas or am I missing something stupid? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/crazy.gif

OK, just an update for those curious - I've officially resigned here at the F/L/M dealer. My last day will be the end of this month, then start my hour long commute! I'll let everyone know how it works out, but already I can see blue sky out there....

As pcassidy111 said, but I like to use the oscilliscope on the WDS or IDS - easy to monitor the CMP signal at the PCM and then just identify the offending pattern! My suspicion is, though, that the DPFE sensor is causing it, especially if it is a metal cased one. Good luck!

There are something like 7 or 8 'steps' that can be commanded between 0 and 85%, but the VGT won't react to the first 1 or 2 even on a known good unit. If it is just the first 2 not moving, I wouldn't be worried. Most bad ones seem to stick and not move until over 50%.

Yeah, you're right. I've really been spoiled by the local dealership thing. The more I stay here and think about what's 'around the corner' the more I see stupid shit here that isn't changing.

OK - I had a chance to spend a few hours talking to the other shop- $30.00 an hour, a helper, flexible work hours, bonus plan on productivity, very laid back and professional shop, more work than they know what to do with - If they were a short commute I believe I'd already be there! Am I being too cautious by not jumping on this opportunity??

I assume you are talking about KA6? What they are looking for is a difference in MGP when the VGT is at 0% vs 85% (the most you can command) of at least 3kPa at 1200rpm. Not much! I have done this test (KA) a few times, and I find I get quicker results by visually checking the actuator operation, KA11, before I get too far. This is pretty good at letting you know if the VGT is moving at all. I have found that often when this test is done the actuator will only move nearer the 85% command, no visual movement closer to 0% at all!

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif Great heads up! I'm downloading it now!

The hours a plus to move, too, BTW - 7:30 to 5:30 M-F now, 7:30 to 4:00 M-F if I decide to go. Sounds even better when I got a 'word of caution' today for getting here at 10 'til 8:00!

Thanks for the response, Jim. I've been in a similar situation before - but then they were insisting I work 6 days a week, plus 1 extended shift each week - about 60 hrs, so the choice to give up a little money and have family time was an easy one. I know that one was a huge relief! This time, thoough, the politics of the 'hometown dealer' and the fact we are actually owned by a parent corp who dictates based on dollars with noreal idea as to what is going on is also part of where the frustrations are. The idea of just doing my job and not someone elses is sounding good. Sometimes there's only so much 'stupid' you can take! Also the extra money potential is very enticing - Here I've never been able to get fully back to whre I was on the line financially, and doubt I will..

OK guys, I'm looking for a litte independent advise here, and would appreciate anything I can get. I'm considering a position in a bigger, truck focused Ford shop in the next city. It would mean shifting back to a full line tech as opposed to Shop Foreman in the F/L/M shop where I am now. Of course some of the immediate advantages are an almost certain increase in annual income and being able to have control over my pay again, no more Lincolns, and no getting caught in the middle of 'STUPID' (anyone whose ever been a foreman knows what I mean there!) The biggest disadvantage is the commute - 53 miles as opposed to my current 3 miles! The other dealership focuses on fleet sales, and most of the service work is F-250 up to F-650 (6.0L only) They have a seperate shop for big trucks and Sterling. OK - anyone else made this type of step? I though accepting the foreman position was moving up, but it turned into getting caught in the middle and fixing other techs screw-ups or can't fix issues, all that with no increase in pay. Thanks for any words of encouragement or discouragement you all may have!

I use IDS on my HP dv1000, installed and ran no issues. Others here use HP, Compaq and Dell. Only real issue so far has been firewalls and making sure everyone is at the same IDS update level as we share a common VCM.

So does that mean that: A) BD will in fact absorb or carry water like it's ethanol relative, that this will in turn cause the PSD injectors to become 'mayonaise makers' C) The cost incenetive of filling a large (500 + gallon) tank will become a problem as water collects in said tank D) We are all about to get it royaly! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hitthefan.gif

The bio fuels are a very good cleaner, so a fuel filter change or 2 when their use is started is to be expected. Here's one of the biggest things I still can't figure - bio fuels actually have a higher lubricity than dino fuels, yet they are cited by Ford as causing injector failures due to scoring? Is it maybe that water is carried by the bio? I know the ethanol mixtures in gasoline will carry instead of seperating water. I also had a Ford hotline engineer last year tell me that the high injection pressures of the PSD will cause bio fuels to 'polymerize' - still haven't really figured that one out yet.

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif Not one, but TWO in the same day!! Maybe this is a little more common in some of your high volume shops, but this is a first for us. The first is an '03 dually, with a modded exhaust and the 06E17 was performed less than 2K miles ago! Blew when he was pulling a 5th wheel. Nearly took the passenger tank off the cooler! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif The second was an 05 dually, this time only blew a small section out, but still enough to turn the truck to a total slug. He actaually pulled the trailer back from PA after it blew! This truck is also modded - this time a K&N cold air kit /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif I'm sure the mods are the root cause of the overboost, but I don't think it's sinking in to the powers that be (that be dealing with the screaming customer, that is) so the '05 is already warranty, and I have a feeling about the '03, too. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif (why does that graemlin get used so much in this topic /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif ) I'm trying to upload the pics now....

Just check the minimum specs on the PTS website, basically any middle range up laptop you buy will more than meet the minimum. Has to be XP Pro - the software won't even try to load without it. If you use a desktop, it may work OK if it's in a cart, like the old SBTS cart, you'll be limited by the length of the cable (which is actually pretty long) and you won't be able to use datalogger or any other tests while driving. I'm using an HP DV1000, it works great. The best is that you can have the PTS service manuals and the IDS running at the same time in different windows. I've never seen the other commpany before (Ebay seller) but they are asking 2X as much for the PDS as RTTP, with just a pelican case added??? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/eek.gif

john - if FordTechCA is switching between the tools, then yes, all you need is the cabling, pocket PC and appropriate software.

I actually spoke with Rotunda yesterday about this and our missing VMM. They have not yet removed the kit from the website because they have not discontinued it. There are so many backorders for it that they had to stop taking new ones! Apparently the BOs are starting to be filled now, though if you talk to the diagnostic people all VCM, VMM and toughbooks are on BO! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif I have a few techs here wanting a PDS kit, too, so we are just watching and calling hoping they will re-release it.

Reading here, I just had a thought - has anyone actually tried using the same VCM with a PDS and a IDS? /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/confused.gif Here's my point - when I switched our VCM from NGS+ to IDS, I had to change the software in the VCM. So now I'm wondering if PDS and IDS use the same VCM software. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif Could be important for those of us trying to be 'thrifty'

Still haven't recieved our VMM. Getting everyone's PC to the same level did seem to take care of the VCM update issue, though.