Brad Clayton

My wife is from Vermont, so now that means I am from Vermont.

I take it the truck is back in service running better than ever now? Believe it or not the dealer I moved to has the gage block for adjusting FIPLs. I stumbled across it after reading this. Tool number is T83T-7B200-AH.

Hey Tony, I'm curious does your screen name suggest that you have a 600 HP mustang?

Huh, sounds kinda like the setup they introduced on the '94 Powerstroke Tonka truck concept, or was it '99? I don't remember now but I saw concept pictures and there was not much room for driveshafts and fuel tanks with all the hydralic cylinders and plumbing and whatnot.

I heard that rumor flying around and thought it was humerous myself.

I seem to remember the value being around 8 in/hg. Can anyone verify that?

Pay close attention when torquing these bolts if your torque wrench is hitting it's number in around the same spot during your tightening sequence but all of a sudden one bolt seems to be taking a lot more turns and feels just as tight before your wrench has indicated the proper torque then stop 'cause that bolt is most likely gonna snap on you. Much easier to replace a problem bolt or at least a questionable one while whole than it is when snapped off in block.

I was curious how much time is spent on the tsb for coking issue, I know it pays actual time. Wondering what you guys flag for a claim and what you usally find in your area. Around this area it's mainly fuel quality, idling all night when plowing a big storm. For the most part our customers service their trucks very regularly.

I understand your point clearly and I apolagize for getting everybody in an uproar, it will not happen again scouts honor. Any good snowbaording up your way, if so I could take you up on your offer.

Everyone statements are good points and well taken. As far as getting to the root causes, our customers in vermont must have the worst driving habits and we must sell the crappiest fuel in the whole of North America, due to some serious coking issues we deal with. I do agree with you guys on the cost and time and I am not trying to push BG products (although I use every service we sell in all my personal vehicles 4 total), but I did like the tool and the presentation for what it was worth. All BG equipment is supplied free of charge no cost to user. They "lend" it to you according to how much product you move.

We got our hands on the brand new egr service tool from BG. This thing is slick. works like this: Warm truck up, remove EGR valve, install adapter plate over EGR port, place tool adapter with a built in fuel injector (looks like an old gas inj.) into EGR adapter plate, remove cold cac tube from intake elbow and place block off plate over elbow to restrict air flow (prevents run aways), pour chemical into a injection cylinder same style as induction services for gas jobs and attach to injector (has nice little fittings), run engine at 1000 rpms and apply 60 psi to cylinder. The injector has a timer module wire to it to inject the chemical in every 15 seconds. Let run for 45 minutes to empty the cylinder which holds 1 quart. Shut truck down and remove cylinder then block off the egr port and install the injector assy into the throttle elbow. This has a really neat setup that happens very quickly, sorry no pics, I mean this is a really well thought out unit. Again fill the container with more chemical and hook to injector, add another cleaner to the crankcase and run engine at 1200 rpms for 45 minutes. Truck will smoke like a bastard so I did it outside and worked on another car while waiting. After cylinder empties shut truck down and remove components, reinstall egr valve that i cleaned while waiting and cac hose then run for 15 minutes at 1500 rpm to get all chemicals out of intake system, drop the oil and put in fresh, put additive in tank (looks like 44k) rip it down highway and your done, gotta clear the codes set though. The main drawback is it's expensive, 4 part chemical pack costs the dealer $100 and they pay the tech 3 to 4 hours. We are at 72 dollars an hour so it's between 400 and 500 dollars for the service. I saw it in action and the intake was spotless inside, really neat tool.

They hemed and hawed and look at each other and side stepped as much as they could then finally said they ended up carrying fuel in containers in the bed on really "long" excursions.

I watched the latest episode of 6.4l roundtable talks and I asked them how long they tested the new powerplant. Thier response was years, so then I asked them were they got ULSD in the field while driving. They shut my microphone off after that.

Anyone know what the faint buzz/hum is under the hood with key in off but not lock position. We leave all the vehicles in our bays in nuetral when working on them so the key is not in the lock postion. Two trucks exhibited dead batteries over the weekend that were in the shop due to this. I remember a broadcast message for the Focus when it was introduced saying that if key was left in ignition even in the lock position that the battery would discharge but I have never seen it happen.

Anybody have any tricks to make park brake shoe replacement on a '02 Explorer or newer any easier?

At my old dealer in SC we had two guys that made between 90k and 110k every year, while the average was 45k. They hustled their ass off. One was the typical flat rate animal, he signed up for evey recall that came down the pipe, and he pulled every wheel on every recall. We called him total recall, but he killed us every week when it came to hours turned. The other tech did straight up diag and tough problems, but he worked smarter not harder and he put his extra time in when needed. So it can be done. I am a break even guy, but I sleep good at night and my constitution is at ease, no ulcers, and my bills get paid.

Did that unit have dual alternators? Sounds pretty crowded under the hood if so. Any cac tube mods or extensions involved? I noticed the 6.4 hoses are ribbed and they all have the orange coating on the inside. I doubt aftermarket units will do the same and blow off under those high boost pressures.

i probably should of put this in the photos of tools post.

Homemade tool to help diagnose the 6.0 liter econoline fan clutch.

That style lift is perfect for cab offs. I have the same one and have lifted every configuration quickly and easily and safely I might add. Much easier than asymetric 9000 pounders and the big 15000 to 18000 pounders make it hard for small standard cabs.

I checked with parts this morning and had them look up an 8009 and it will be here tomorrow. This info was extremely helpful thanks again.

I'm originally from the South and moved North. Here I promptly discovered snowboarding and it keeps me sane and young at heart. Not that I am old by any means but the diesels can wear you down. I take a couple of extra days off during the week each winter to work at Okemo mountain in Vermont to get a free season pass.

I'm not a 100% sure but I will check into it Monday. Thanks for the heads up.

We had our first 6.4l come in with a blown out radiator. It's an F-450 with a huge fifth wheel camper. I think they drove it 'til it wouldn't go anymore 'cause she smells burnt. Anyway the radiators are D99, should be interesting to see how the customers response is to this. Our GM asked the tech about swapping a rad. from a stock unit, his response was not nice.

anybody read the procedure for this? sounds like an e-series with a 6.0l. yikes.