Brad Clayton

"off road use only"

Another hybrid I worked on a while back. This was a 2013 Prius that was wrecked and needed 10k worth of stuff to get it back on the road. I replaced the engine harness. It was a job I would probably not do again if given the option. The kill switch is under the trunk floor cover.. The harness The car This was the only hard part under the hood. I did not want to remove the brake booster but had no choice as the harness went under it and through the hole in the firewall on the left of the booster pass through. The real aggravating part of the job was the interior. There were as many connections inside as out on this "engine" harness. All in all, this is a pretty well engineered car despite the fact that I hate everything about it. Take this cluster of modules (red arrow) for instance. The harness is zip tied to the bracket in a couple of places. But instead of having to cut them, all you have to do is release that little clip above and set the component aside. Then you can simply remove a few bolts and you have the whole module cluster out, and there are even spare slots for upgrades. It reminds me of the stuff in the back of a computer tower.

Baller at the Wal-Mart Dammit they were closed My thoughts exactly James Bond in the house

Nah, forgot about them things. It was a 2001 with a 4.2L

I was elbow deep in gasoline yesterday, fuel pump on a V10 Excursion [real shit show] and a fuel injector F150 V6 [leaking so bad it hydrolocked the motor, er a engine].

First and foremost, best of luck to you and the ones you provide for, on your new journey. I hope that you find that the grass indeed greener on the other side. There are a few hurdles involved with such an endeavor. A new hire, no matter how long in the industry, must prove himself all over again to a certain degree. You have to get a new bay organized to your liking so that efficiency can be maintained, you have to due an inventory of all the special tools and you pray they have everything or more. You have to get in good with the parts department [most important of all] and there again you hope they know what they are doing. I would say that one of my keys to a successful move has been to stay the course and not waiver from my work ethic involving automotive repair operations. In other words I have a system that works, I have stuck with it, and management (new or existing) has never been able to change me. Take it easy the first few weeks and triple check everything you do. This will prevent stupid mistakes that if happened at a place where you are at the top of heap, would be swept under the rug or never even noticed, however will be heavily scrutinized as a new hire. Lastly, I gotta say that your exiting dealer has got to be up in arms. That is going to be a huge void for them to fill and last I heard they were booked out for months.

Mike, if the mechanic thing doesn't work out, we could always use a good parts guy down here.

Some visuals: With the left seat back folded down, the "kill" switch can be accessed. This is the exact same switch as the Prius I worked on a while back. The handle is slid in the direction of the arrow to disengage it. The switch is then removed by rotating in the direction of the red arrow. The green arrows indicate the sensor that tells the components involved with decision making stuff that it is properly engaged. In other words if you rotate it back to the closed position but do not slide it left the car will not "run". Once this is removed, I hide it on the top of my toolbox. Jumper connections from the module to the trans. These power connections are pretty nifty, a bolt actually keeps it connected. Little portable tables, such as this one, are great for any type of subframe removal. She's shaped rather oddly and a bit heavy too. Normally I use the lift arm and raise the lift up and down to remove the trans from the jack, but this shop has a chain fall. So I put it to good use. Not a whole lot to look at in this area. I only had to reseal these case halves.

You guys would really get annoyed after a 2 minute conversation with me. I call nuts...bolts, engines.....motors and all kinds of other improperness. However, for all our Northern brethren, I have NEVER called the CN Tower.....the CNN Tower.

Wal-Marts "I gotta go to the Wal-Marts and get some stuff"

Amen to that.

Anyone ever notice that there is always a jar of Vaseline close by in a lot of Aaron's pictures?

NC allows 2 unset monitors for earlier obd and only 1 unset for the newer models. So yeah, they maybe an option for you. The drive cycles can be an enormous waste of fuel and unnecessary hours driving around.

car1 /kɑr/ [kahr] noun 1. an automobile. 2. an alternative work source for diesel mechanics, whose well has run dry in the light duty diesel market.

Nah, just warm the vehicle up, shut it off, jump the IAT, and then do your drive cycle.

Sounds like spun bearings again.

Sounds like spun bearings again.

This is an odd one. That pump dead headed, should hit 3000+ the instant you hit the key. Even with a pretty serious leak, it should make some pressure greater than 260PSI. I don't have the ICP harness tool so I made my own out of one of those expensive pigtail kits.

Ford's typical value for 80ish degrees F is around 25K ohms. 14F is around 160K ohms. If the IAT is stand alone then it can be easily jumped out with a 25K resistor, if its integrated in with the MAF like most Fords, then I back the pins out and jump the resistor across the pins.

Congratulations!

Well, I got lucky today. This vehicle is a '13 model and they redesigned the trans by making the TCM and invertor assy removable from the trans instead of all one unit. After getting that junk out of the way, the trans came out just like a normal car, easy peasy.

Yeah, you gotta put a resistor in the IAT circuit temporarily to make it read a little warmer. Had to do this all the time in Vermont, real pain in the ass.