Brad Clayton

Not calling this one fixed, but it's back in the customers hands at the moment. I hooked up a voltmeter to the vref on the egr valve and it would get pulled down to 0volts during the event. I started at the harness inside and moved through the firewall and back to the PCM. The only thing I noticed was the wiring harness trapped under the battery tray, but they all are like that. I removed the tray anyway and split the harness open and the br/wh wire for the 5 volt ref was actually rubbed. I replaced that section of wire and reassembled and have not recreated the concern yet.

Wasn't aware you were hittin the hard stuff, that shit will make you go blind..........oh you mean the show!

We have had our fair share of weather related problems here today, also. We leave our tire dunk tank outside and I went to use it this morning but had to break up the 32nd of an inch skim of ice that was on the top before I could check my tire.

A fellow strolls into the shop and wants to know what it would take to put a 7.3 in his 6.0 powered F-350. I replied "a lot". We get into the conversation about why, and he tells me his engine has "flown apart". Much prying ensues and he talks about doing a short block, then we discuss a crankshaft and possible rod. Finally he agrees on towing it up to us to remove the engine and do a tear down to determine what the fix will need. I asked him again how bad the engine sounded and he said he wouldn't start it again 'cause it was knocking so bad and smoking up a storm. Truck arrives at the shop, 2003 model smoking and knocking. Well, 1 fuel injector replacement later and she is back on the road tearing up the mean streets of K-town (Kinston).

This is how I do 'em. I mount a 1 1/16" socket in a vice and set the injector into the socket. I pry the old oring out. Then push the ferrule down in the bore where the oring used to reside. Now this circlip could be a real nitemare to dig out with a pick. I use the method Alliant Power uses instead. So there are two ways to go about this, remove the ring, the ferrule, and the oring or just sneak the oring in and out with the rest in tact. I like to remove all the stuff and clean it up a bit. I take a small center punch and, using my jeweler hammer , give the ring a couple of taps opposite of the opening. I end up with something like this: the ring will bow up on both sides (green arrow) perpendicular to the punch area (red arrow). The ring can then be easily pried out with a pocket screw driver. Next, I retrieve the ferrule with a pair of duck bill pliers. I use these instead of a 90 degree pick to prevent scratching things up. I lube up the new oring and install it. Next, the ferrule goes in bevel side up for obvious reasons. I gently seat every thing with a socket. I install the circlip by using the same method to mount a tire to a rim. I start the ring between the 3 and 4 oclock positions and then hold it with a pair of needle nose pliers and then roll the clip in with the wide blade of my pocket screwdriver in the direction of the arrow. All set and ready for main body orings before reinstallation. Now for the oil rail, I don't do one without the other. I start by bolting the rail down to my bench. This bench has holes in it here and there, so I bolted on the end and wedged the other end against my trans holder. Closer view of removed components. I got these oring kits from Moonlight Diesel in Utah. Going back together, I unbolt the rail from the bench, clean and then bolt it back up with it wedged the opposite way so I can tighten the snot out of the nips. I really like this repair kit and the rail has a seriously positive engagement to the injectors on reassembly. These rails could be lifted up by hand before.

Alright so the U1900 was being reported by the IC from the ABS module not being configured correctly. I can't get this thing to bring up an as built data screen to save my life. So I just unplugged the ABS module and got it right out of the loop. I have unplugged all sorts of stuff, ICP, EBP, FICM, GPCM, took the IC off-line and still no avail. I have got the vehicle to act up for more than 2 seconds though. It stayed in break down mode for about 30 seconds one time and I tugged and wiggled harnesses everywhere I could get at. I unplugged the fan and things worked great for a moment. Still battling it at the moment.

That's why they drink vodka.

Updates: monitored pid data while jumping the starter solenoid under the hood and data streamed correctly. Used key again and data would lock up. I ruled out the starter as the culprit. So looking at the EVTM and the ignition switch circuit, I found fuse 45 comes off the run start leg to the IC. I removed fuse 45 and data streams during start, put fuse back in and the data locks up and the cluster warning lamps are dim again (original concern). So I am going to delve further into this U1900 code for the IC and see what I can see.

Lots of people in Vermont have pantry's that double as fridges in the winter. It's basically a little outcrop off the kitchen of a house that has holes in the outside to allow the winter breeze to keep everything chilled. Nifty idea if you're an off the grid type.

Interesting. I did a buzz test with all reporting normally, unplugged the FICM relay with no change, and unbolted the glow plug/alt wire from the battery and retried with no change. I will look into this starter thing tomorrow.

I have F-550 manual trans 4x2 with a service body that is freighted. It was towed in last Friday before last for a crank no start. The driver said he pulled a code for a PCM "bad" and cleared said code. I verify a nice strong crank but no start. The first thing I notice is the cluster warning lights are very dim. There are no codes except for an IC communication code. The next thing I notice is there is no injector buzz at key cycle. I pull up pid data and then lose it the instant I crank the engine over (as if the DLC were unplugged). I turn the key on and off a few times and notice that every once in a while the cluster lights will be nice and bright like normal and the injectors will buzz, however once the key is turned to start, it's all back to the dark ages. So I jumped the starter under the hood and it runs just fine. I dig into the ignition switch and find no power out of the red/green wire when this is going on and the wire has been "T" tapped multiple times in the past. I replaced the ignition switch and the wire terminal. Truck starts normally and no codes, pid data is spot on and cluster lights work as designed. I release the truck and it runs fine for the next 6 days. Get a call today that the truck wont start. Go down to take a look at it and the batterys are hammered. Bring two batterys and the IDS and get it started without too much issue. Now I am back at the shop and have no codes and it starts every time, however..........I am seeing something odd on the pid data that I have never encountered. Once you engage the starter the pid data will freeze for a second or two and then the truck starts and pid data resumes operation. Notice where the cursor is at around 2 seconds and 0 RPM. Now if I hover my mouse over the small increment arrow and hit it once, the time cursor jumps immediately to around 4 seconds and 616.75 RPM. All the data in between is not readable. It's as if the truck gets confused for a second or two and then acts normally. You can see the graphs are still registering however the data can not be looked at in numbers on the left. When the truck is cranking the ICP hangs at 133 PSI, truck starts and then it resumes with the data at the 4 second mark. Anybody had issues with shit hanging up like this?

Been there doin' that.

Funny you should mention that. I flew down to South Carolina many years ago to drive a 7.3 back to Vermont. I carried an IPR valve and cam sensor and enough tools to change both if needed.

Reminds me of a vacuum pump pulley puller.

The lack of rust diminishes the need for hammers. I have all but retired my collection after moving back South. I end up reaching for my little jeweler hammer most of the time now.

Dang it, I ain't never gonna be able to get rid of this variable venturi carburetor.

Those installers are full of shit.

Shop looks very nice Matt, two things I would do to complement those lifts: get rid of those floor spotters (they really inhibit putting the trucks where you want them and are, in my opinion, for new techs that have never used a lift before) and get a set of these Door Jammer Pros. They work great for saving paint.

My thoughts EXACTLY!!!!! lol

No tool box should be without this tool. This is the multi tool of the automotive world. I use this tool for just about every job I get into. I disconnect injectors with it, glow plug connectors, push stand pipes in, you name it. It must be the A177A unit from Snap-on though.

Well, I officially put my request in for one of these 18K bad boys. I got tired of dickin around with asking the wrong people for a better lift. So I went to the top and asked someone that is actually in control of how money is spent in the dealer. It will be interesting to see how it plays out but I put in a firm request, using words such as safety, productivity, better morale, things such as that. I feel good about my chances of finally getting off of a creeper this year.

Put a carburetor on it.

*chuckles softly*