amailloux

We had a lady drive in with her live dog on top of the rear diffrential of her explorer. Could not believe that thing lived.

Yes I have. Same thing on a new gear set on an f150. The nut is stupid expensive as well. I went through 2 nuts, and then ended up reusing the original withe red lock tight.

My 09 does

This is my personal truck so I am ok with it being down for a week or more. My pitman shaft has a very large amount of play. Maybe 1/4 inch or more side to side when doing a dry park check. I believe there is a needle bearing down there as opposed to a bushing just inboard of the piman shaft seal. Amazingly it is not leaking yet. Has anyone changed that bearing, re sealed the box and properly adjusted with good luck. I found a couple new gears on eBay for about 300 clams. I was considering just adjusting mesh preload on truck by measuring preload at the wheel with the pitman ball disconnected, but the play seems excessive and I am unsure if this will cause further rapid wear.

I was working in an ag shop in high school and the old guy who was a retired auto instructor grabbed a 10 inch crescent wrench. Tightened with the wrench to seat the bearings, backed off 1/4 turn, and held the wrench just past 12 o'clock and let it fall. Every since then my spec has been "the drop of a 10 inch crescent" over 20 years doing it this way.

I had a rash also. Had p00b7 set after reflash due to low coolant levels as well, but did a bunch of t-stats. I started changing all black ended rad hoses leaking or not for a few fleets. Damn p0298 caused some pissed trucks also. Wrench light and reduced power 20 miles after reflash. I spent a lot of time trying to explain the benefits of knowing when truck needs help, but some people just don't understand?

I put one in a 2015 crew cab short box. I had to notch the transfer case skid plate for clearance. It was a poly tank and it fit ok. Was able to change programmable parameters and make the dte calculation correct. I did blow and clean out the new tank as it has some small plastic pieces of debris out of the box. Also it does not allow the factory tank shield.

Right, and under acceleration, the default mode door position is Defrost. When vacuum systems were still the norm, the main complaint was I lose heat or ac under heavy load which really means the air stops coming out the vents that blow directly on them. You are right on the temp door thing though. I have had a few over a gallon low on coolant with no overheat issues as well.

I have been using the green top engine cleaner for now. It has been hard for me to track, but 2 have required pistons, 2 other are not burning oil at the moment, and the other dozen or so were not regular customers so who knows.

That vehicle uses vacuum still. Comes in on the rh side under dash right at doghouse and is easily disconnected or disrupted when putting the doghouse back on. Check for vacuum leaks on the one losing under acceleration. I think the vacuum reservoir is under the battery tray of all places and those side terminal batteries like to leak.

Did it have a programmer by chance.

I believe that engine has no dod and also no screen under the oil pressure sensor. you have good oil pressure. when the lifters or cam fail, they make a pronounced squeak, squeak at idle. This engine used flat top pistons and can build carbon as well. the 5.3 uses dished pistons. The GM green soap top engine cleaner is not nearly as good as the old stuff and has not been good at unsticking rings. I would try your favorite induction cleaner and procedure for carbon and the let her rip.

So I thought he scr was placed before the dpf, but after the catalyst to get it up to temp as fast as possible. When watching the scr data, the ecm commands post injection and the cat lights, then egts 1 and 2 come up pretty rapidly. It takes a quite a while under light load to get egt 3 and up to the 450 plus degrees needed to reduce nox. In stop and go, the dpf can run cooler and only he scr must be kept up to temp reducing fuel consumption and allowing a lower idle.

GM puts the SCR before the DPF also.

It seems like the core fractures and leaks, NOT the side tanks or side tank gaskets. They crack usually about 8 inches down where the cross tubes meet the aluminum end plate. And yes the Mishi's leak as well and crack in the same place.