amailloux

We had a lady drive in with her live dog on top of the rear diffrential of her explorer. Could not believe that thing lived.

Yes I have. Same thing on a new gear set on an f150. The nut is stupid expensive as well. I went through 2 nuts, and then ended up reusing the original withe red lock tight.

My 09 does

This is my personal truck so I am ok with it being down for a week or more. My pitman shaft has a very large amount of play. Maybe 1/4 inch or more side to side when doing a dry park check. I believe there is a needle bearing down there as opposed to a bushing just inboard of the piman shaft seal. Amazingly it is not leaking yet. Has anyone changed that bearing, re sealed the box and properly adjusted with good luck. I found a couple new gears on eBay for about 300 clams. I was considering just adjusting mesh preload on truck by measuring preload at the wheel with the pitman ball disconnected, but the play seems excessive and I am unsure if this will cause further rapid wear.

I was working in an ag shop in high school and the old guy who was a retired auto instructor grabbed a 10 inch crescent wrench. Tightened with the wrench to seat the bearings, backed off 1/4 turn, and held the wrench just past 12 o'clock and let it fall. Every since then my spec has been "the drop of a 10 inch crescent" over 20 years doing it this way.

I had a rash also. Had p00b7 set after reflash due to low coolant levels as well, but did a bunch of t-stats. I started changing all black ended rad hoses leaking or not for a few fleets. Damn p0298 caused some pissed trucks also. Wrench light and reduced power 20 miles after reflash. I spent a lot of time trying to explain the benefits of knowing when truck needs help, but some people just don't understand?

I put one in a 2015 crew cab short box. I had to notch the transfer case skid plate for clearance. It was a poly tank and it fit ok. Was able to change programmable parameters and make the dte calculation correct. I did blow and clean out the new tank as it has some small plastic pieces of debris out of the box. Also it does not allow the factory tank shield.

Right, and under acceleration, the default mode door position is Defrost. When vacuum systems were still the norm, the main complaint was I lose heat or ac under heavy load which really means the air stops coming out the vents that blow directly on them. You are right on the temp door thing though. I have had a few over a gallon low on coolant with no overheat issues as well.

I have been using the green top engine cleaner for now. It has been hard for me to track, but 2 have required pistons, 2 other are not burning oil at the moment, and the other dozen or so were not regular customers so who knows.

That vehicle uses vacuum still. Comes in on the rh side under dash right at doghouse and is easily disconnected or disrupted when putting the doghouse back on. Check for vacuum leaks on the one losing under acceleration. I think the vacuum reservoir is under the battery tray of all places and those side terminal batteries like to leak.

Did it have a programmer by chance.

I believe that engine has no dod and also no screen under the oil pressure sensor. you have good oil pressure. when the lifters or cam fail, they make a pronounced squeak, squeak at idle. This engine used flat top pistons and can build carbon as well. the 5.3 uses dished pistons. The GM green soap top engine cleaner is not nearly as good as the old stuff and has not been good at unsticking rings. I would try your favorite induction cleaner and procedure for carbon and the let her rip.

So I thought he scr was placed before the dpf, but after the catalyst to get it up to temp as fast as possible. When watching the scr data, the ecm commands post injection and the cat lights, then egts 1 and 2 come up pretty rapidly. It takes a quite a while under light load to get egt 3 and up to the 450 plus degrees needed to reduce nox. In stop and go, the dpf can run cooler and only he scr must be kept up to temp reducing fuel consumption and allowing a lower idle.

GM puts the SCR before the DPF also.

It seems like the core fractures and leaks, NOT the side tanks or side tank gaskets. They crack usually about 8 inches down where the cross tubes meet the aluminum end plate. And yes the Mishi's leak as well and crack in the same place.

I just had a 2007 new body style Chevy 1500 roll in with 505,559 miles. That's a lot of seat time.

I noticed the 4.6 and 6.8 were not included. I bet this is updated in the future.

Did you price a shaft through gm. I can usually get a shaft with all u joints and yokes cheaper than just replacing 3 u joints, carrier bearing, and a slip yoke. I have tried local driveshaft shops for balancing with very poor results. I even visited the shop in town to see how they balance and they have an expensive electronic machine but don't high speed balance. On a side not I ordered a custom shaft from Denny's driveshafts for a hot rod and I could run 80 mph with no vibration. They high speed balance.

I Have a freaking Budget c7500 Kind of nosed in my bay with the 7.8 Isuzu diesel. I put a water pump on one last week, and this one has an engine harness that has been hacked all to hell. Outside is another medium duty Huge bus to look at for rough running, Trans light and erratic shifting. We are NOT a medium duty dealer and are not set up for stuff this size, but I guess I'll go with the flow and Fix them up. And icing on the cake, an AWD Buick Rendezvous that is leaking from everywhere that got the ok to reseal the engine. Hopefully some Good work rolls in soon.

I have seen a ton of gm extension housings broken along with Allison c5 clutch housings, and 6 speed transmission cases. Every one had a driveline vibration. I had a bell housing and flywheel housing let go on 1 Allison from a driveline as well. I have a few Fords roll in with the transfer case in multiple pieces and hanging from a front driveline vibration. We have a fleet that was instructed to keep the front hubs locked all the time and the doubal cardan can't handle hours at 80 mph.

You have to have a serial to rs232 adapter, or a much less robust USB to rs232 adapter if you don't have a serial port. Then you need access to tis 2 web. You have to make sure the port is correct in the settings for comm to the tech 2. After you are on the tis 2 web page, you select the vehicle, and it is pretty easy to follow after that. You will want to select legacy pass through if you are using the tech 2 and. Candi module. If you request data from the vehicle remotely and then go to the pc and hook up, you would select tech 2 remote. I recommend not using this function as it slows the baud rate way down and takes a very long time. That Tcm calibration is one of the longer reflashes so put a jump pack on it, or a very clean power supply, not a standard battery charger. https://acdelcoconnect.com/Content/pdfs/ACDelco_GMSi_TIS2Web_Frequently_Asked_Questions.pdf That trans will shift like shit the first couple of runs to 70 but will quickly learn. Also parts for that trans are extremely cheap. Under warranty, I don't think I can replace one cheaper than repairing even with a torque converter and Tcm. They are a little trickle to get some of the drums apart and back together even with the special tools, and they have a few other quirks like using plasti gauge to select the pump rotor and slide. We have some mines that just destroy the 6l90s over and over by getting them stuck, shock load, or sinking them and filling them with water.

What part of the head was damaged? was the valve loose in the guide. I did a cam and followers in a high milage 5.4 for a friend last year and it is still pumping away.

The pats sensor is in the lock cylinder case up to the gmt 900 trucks. There is no transponder in the key head. There is a magnet that rotates past a hall sensor to trigger the theft challenge. It the lock sensor is forced to rotate, or the ignition switch jumped without the magnet triggering the hall and sending the voltage, a theft event is triggered. Just below the head of the key look for a plus, or a circle plus. These oe keys have transponders in them and will need learned.

Funny thing is that a lot of oe parts are very comparable to aftermarket in price. Especially if you get a dealer fleet discount from the dealer. I am amazed time and time again how many Napa parts are more expensive. Moog problem solver front end parts for my super duty were more than oem, steering gear for an older f350 more ezpensive. Even a window regulator was more expensive the other day.

We have some dmax ambulances that set p207 after extended idle time. I was told by GM that it is due to Def crystalizatoon and no fix is available. I usually enable a regen and drive about 30 miles and the scr starts reducing better than 90%