Brad Clayton

I am not surprised........just frustrated. You have 3 small four cylinder engines that are extremely close in displacement yet take different capacities and can't run a simple 4 quart or 5 quart oil pan.

Here's am idea, how about commonizing the oil capacities or at least design the friggin' pans to hold a number that is rounded up to halfs or full quarts.

Sorry, I cheaped out and just put them little arrows pointing up at the 4000 hours.

Saw this on a 2013 Super duty vin on OASIS

^^^^^

This particular lift is awesome for doing 6.0L engine work. You simply lift the rear lift as high as your comfortable with and leave the front lift down and the engine bay becomes a flat wall in front of you.

I hear ya. Hope you squirreled away some money for the winter!

Long time no hear from there Chris, you been off the grid or what?

I turned 17 hours last week and I was the highest of the 6 of us.

I may have been wrong on that year model, I can't remember now. I know the newer ones are led's. From the work shop manual:

I'm pretty sure that's a multi colored led. Green for engaged and orange for disengaged.

Haven't heard anything on the franchise end of it (which we are all part of), however the post office gives employee discounts for US Cellular customers, which I qualify for.

Thats fire marshal Billy Bob Clayton!

Just call me Billy Bob then.

Thank you fellas, all in a days work. I haven't worked on a diesel in about 3 weeks. I'm scrounging up whatever I can for work.

This is a 2003 femstang with a couple of noisy ball joints. Believe it or not a.....fella drives this thing to each his own, I guess. Gonna be putting a pair of these in. I mark the rotor to the hub. And the spring to the control arm so I will know if it rotates by accident. I remove the caliper and pad bracket as an assembly. I remove the sway bar top hardware and only loosen the bottom hardware. I chain the spring to the control arm for safety and it keeps the arm from falling down any lower than needed to get the ball joint free of the knuckle. The retaining nut is tucked away but easily removed with a wrench. I loosen the nut a couple of turns. I give the knuckle a couple of sharp hits and break the joint loose. I bring the car down and support the arm with a jack stand, remove the nut, and bend the backing plate back a smidge so the control arm will clear when lowered down. The control arm is lowered down and once the knuckle is free, the strut is ratchet strapped over out of the way. Now for some interesting notes. The ball joints on Explorers, Rangers, older F-150s, mutstangs, and pretty much anything with shallow ball joints and these stamped steel A-arms can be hammered out without a press. Guys in the shop can judge you by how many swings it takes to knock one out. And you better bet if they see what your doin they will be listening. So if you swing a hammer like a bitch, you might want to wait til everybody is at lunch to do this job. This one came out with 2 hits, so my man card is still in tact. This setup worked perfect for reinstallation. I opted not to use the supplied retaining nuts (lots of nasty looking Loctite) and reused the originals because the nylock insert was still intact. The rest was just reassembly of disassembly.

You can spot a 6.0 with a funky ICP by ear from a mile a way. They sound much quieter almost flatter than the usual peppy 6.0.

Donuts

Now that you mention it, I have adopted the practice of unplugged number 3 or 4 to ensure it is the correct one. I guess I will have to unscrew it now and heat it with a torch to make that determination.

We touched on this a while back but now its official

Put a bit more than 5 in it and drive it rather aggressively and reevaluate that fuel gage position.

I sent 3 shots to your email.

I got this side by side photo on here, with the originals on my puter that are separated.

U joints are the devil !!!