Brad Clayton

Sure wish you could send some my way. Anything would be better than watching the grass grow around here.

I always gotta kick out of the off brand stereo stuff at flea markets, you know, Alphine, Rockwood Fosgate, ect.

Hot damn, that is a story. Reminds me of my seat belt fines when I moved to NC. One thing you don't do around here, argue with a cop on the side of the road. You will get shot! Period.

Thanks I didn't go into detail about making sure the fuel float arm doesn't hang up in there, like the video though..

If Ford ain't payin' for it, it doesn't get replaced on my customer's vehicles. I have only replaced one that had an issue..........the vacuum canister on the bottom was leaking.

Thank you, this is 2.1 hours if I remember, or 2.3. It pays the least because it's only 2WD and not a police unit.

Once the pump is free, you have to disconnect this internal vapor line. It is a bit tricky and the easiest way to get it released is to have the pump as low in the tank as possible. I push on the center of the release clip with a pocket screwdriver (not shown) and pry down on the line with a door trim tool. If this clip breaks on you, then it is easily replaced with a clip from Dorman Products # 800-041 5/8 clip. Next is the transfer line and the pump is out. I swap over the sending unit and prepare for reinstallation. The vapor line needs to be tethered as it will not allow the pump to clear the opening if you hold it up like this. It must be dropped down into the tank and Ford suggests using a long zip tie to retrieve it. I opt for mechanics wire! I give it a quick wrap, tuck it into the tank and bend the wire a bit to force the line over and away from the pump opening. A new pump o-ring is installed. Now the wire can be pulled out and the line will follow allowing it to be easily reattached. Now here is where using the correct tool makes life easy. Those plastic fittings will break off without hesitation if the tool slips off the engagement ears and hits them, so care must be used at this point. I get the ring into position as shown in the red square, index the tool as shown and using the biggest ½ ratchet that I own, give a quick sharp tug to roll those lugs under the lips. The rest is just the reverse of disassembly.

Now I remove the canister (five 10 mm nuts) but I leave the vapor line at the bottom connected (green lock) and just lay the canister over on the exhaust. Fuel supply line. Next, I reach over the right rear control arm to get the filler neck (1/4 socket). A radiator hose removal tool makes short work of breaking the seal between the pipe and hose. Just on the other side of the filler neck joint (closer to fuel tank) is the filler tube vent line. The blue release pushes up easily to free the connection. Last thing at the rear is the vent tube going into the uni-body. 2 bolts (13 mm) holding the front straps up. I use a trans jack to support the tank. The rear bolts do not need to be removed, besides that, they are very difficult to get to. So the straps can be gently bent down out of the way. The tank can now be lowered down to get to the pump. I remove any dirt from the top of the tank. Disconnect all the fuel lines and electrical connection and remove the ring with the tool. Notice the fuel output line is black, signifying that is the old style.

Recall 13S04 Explorer This is a fuel pump replacement on a relatively easy, normally aspirated, 2wd Explorer. The first thing I like to do is remove as much fuel as possible. I made this tool which has a 5/16 fitting on one end and a 1/4 fitting on the other end. This will work for Explorers and Fusions (respectively) which require fuel tank removal. Disconnect the fuel supply line at the front of the engine. Connect the hose to the fuel line and run to a container. IDS is used to run the pump until the tank is below 1/4 full. The gage can be ran into the red, but the pump runs really slow when it’s this low. These are the tools I use. The only specialty tools needed (in my opinion) are the pump retaining ring release tool 310-123 and the fuel line release tool (little red guy there to the right of the blow gun). The exhaust is under the tank and must be removed. A pry bar is used to remove the rear exhaust hangers. I use a rag to keep from scratching the chrome tips. These pliers are the only way to go when removing exhaust hangers. There are four hangers in total, two pictured here and one at each muffler. The front connection is a slip joint style and can be difficult to remove. I am not replacing any part of the exhaust therefore I only need to get it out of the way of the fuel tank. The front of the exhaust has a flex joint and allows for plenty of maneuvering without damaging anything. The now loose exhaust is propped up on a screw jack and slid just under the right rear tire. Fuel pump connector and harness retaining pin.

If you were in the market for a diesel engine stand, would you get the OTC or Norco unit, or something else all together? I like OTC stuff, but the Norco has some nice adapters for Fords power plants .http://www.norcoind.com/norco/products/model/78200A.html

The shop I am at now used to be Cummins certified, and they dropped the whole deal due to what is being stated here about warranty issues.

Service advisor recap: so we need 1 fuse, 1 relay, 6 spark plugs, drain the fuel tank and put fresh gas in it, and 1 engine assembly? Is that it? Alright, let me call the customer.

Our shop is a small shop, 6 guys in total comprising of 1 diesel guy (me) 1 trans/driveability guy (he is also the shop foreman/dispatcher) 2 line techs (parts slingers) 1 all around up and comer (on his way to tech stardom if steered correctly) and 1 oil changer (total dipshit). Now I was not at work yesterday as I had to go to the doctor for an extreme case of poison ivy. This shit has really got me down for the count. But I wish I had been at work to see this spectacle. A towed in Windbag for a no start issue slipped by dispatch to one of the line techs. He immediately came up with it needing an engine. The service advisor was skeptical and wanted the tech to get a second opinion from the foreman. He was busy so he asked the other line tech what he thought and he came up with it needing spark plugs. By now every available guy has meandered over because the shop is slow and they are all putting in some input. The oil change guy said it had water in the fuel, and he could smell the water. I don't know what the fuck kinda water he drinks but my drinking water ain't got no smell to it. So the foreman walks over and asks how he got a fuel sample and the oiler says from the shrader valve. He asks the spark plug guy if it had spark to the plug.........don't know was the answer. He didn't even bother with the explanation of needing an engine. So he turns the key on and the fuel pump doesn't prime. He checks the fuses and the fuel pump relay fuse is blown. Installs a new fuse and the fuel pump runs continuously. The relay took a dump and stayed engaged. 1 new relay and new fuse later and it was motoring down the road. (love to know how oiler boy got fuel outa that shrader valve with an offline fuel pump)

No.

Google

This whole shop is a friggin museum. We got the SBDS, SBTS (red topped cabinet in pic.), WDS, NGS, and a couple a Super Star II's around somewhere.

I go to the table of contents for the specific fuse and then it shows the various branches. One area of concern on these stick shifts is the wiring just above and beside the clutch pedal. The pedal will rub on the harness as you operate the clutch and give issues.

Here are some quick photos.

In the works as we speak.

It's from our body shop. The front end got removed abruptly and without consent by the owner.

Them doods go all out eh? They got more camera coverage on that deal than a real ski jump broadcast. I like it, I like it a lot.