Brad Clayton

Keep your head up my friend, it will all be but a bad dream in no time.

More of a bit of randomness than an observation.....I learned to count to ten in Japanese today.

I got no input on that, but I do want to say welcome aboard my friend!!!!

Comment.........liked!

No codes at all, and it is at it's latest level. All temp sensors are in check and I have actually monitored the raw voltages and not just the computed temps. This thing is on the back burner for the moment, but I will update when I get back to it.

So far it just looks like 1 upfitter switch is being used for strobe lights. My donor AP didn't make any difference. More testing with results to follow....

I came across a donor truck that I can swap the pedal out to see what happens.

I put an alternator on one a while back for a similar concern, she would just stop charging.

Take a look at these screen shots and see if you guys have seen anything like this before. Truck has no codes but after driving it pretty hard then it just won't go no matter how much throttle you give it. Is it a bad accel pedal? Bad PCM? Bad tech? I'm not sure at this point.

Keeping an eye on this over on the boards:

There is a dark cloud forming.

It sure doesn't help that Ford has lost their everflippin' mind,,,,,,anybody seen the buzz on the message boards about all the new labor cuts and labor justification video?

Hang on..... OK ready.

What the book wants and what the book gets don't always coincide.

Like button...engaged.

I like where this is going.....

"D" EFC05796 head studded 60.pdf 6.0L_Studded_Engine.pdf

I got the tri-fecta this week, 3.7L tore down to the bare block getting a short block ('16 Explorer), 6F35 tore down to the bare case getting an input shaft and torque converter ('14 Escape), and an 8.8 tore down to the bare housing getting a ring and pinion and all new bearings ('04 Mustang).

time for a raise!!!!

Looks like the V-6's are taking a beating lately.....I gotta '16 Explorer 3.7L with a windowed block, more like a breeze way, the 4th rod got both sides.

This fellow was recommended to me from a shop I consult with on occasion. 2009 F-350 that a dealership tech replaced the HPFP on at his house on the side. The gentleman bought the pump at his dealership. The truck ran one time and has never run since........no fuel coming out of the pump. The owner spoke with the dealership and they said if he had the receipt then it would be under warranty to replace the pump again (the dealer diagnosed it as a failed new pump). So now the owner wants to tow it to my dealer and have me do the pump. But here is the thing.......I am wondering if the pump gear was not tightened or has come loose (it could happen since you have to swap it over, right?). I really hate to get involved with something like that and then have to deal with Ford when they say the pump is ok. I guess I could prep the owner that if I remove the cover and find the pump bolt loose then it's on him.

Working down here in the South affords a lot of luxury in the automotive repair end of things. Some jobs that I would have never tackled in Vermont are relatively easy down here. Case in point, turbo removal on a 6.4. Now I have done this in the past with the cab on and it was not a cake walk by any means. I had to remove these turbos again (a comeback) as the high pressure drain tube leaked after I originally replaced the turbos. I was looking for the quickest way to get this job done. I did a partial cab lift that only requires the bare minimum to lift the front of the cab about 4 inches. I removed the complete air box and this allowed room to stuff the air inlet over out of the way without removing the ccv hose. I removed the upper radiator hose from the radiator. I always orient the upper hose clip with the opening facing up so it can be removed without interfering with the upper shroud. I then removed the degas bottle. Next, is the turbo crossover tube. Both upper charge air cooler hoses are disconnected and the transmission cooler line clip is disengaged from the frame. The body is lifted in the front (only 4 bolts removed (6 if crew cab)) and the return power steering hose is monitored so it doesn't get stretched. Some views. The offending unit. The only CAC hoses I torque are 6.4's.....mandatory in my opinion. I always replace the radiator hose o-rings and degas bottle hose o-ring. This allows this operation to work more effectively. And that was it, I was able to repair the leak and shipped this puppy out before lunch.

Make sure the owner brings all the work history from the other shops.

Got an engine on the way for this jewel.