Brad Clayton

I have what every fleet manager cringes to hear..........one of their diesel trucks with a tank full of 87 octane, and when I say full I mean 40 gallons. 2013 F-450......let the pencil whipping begin.

That is a damn good set. A guy at my old shop has a set, I use to wear em out for him. I moved to the South now I don't need em anymore.

http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/4088-64l-oil-pan-removal/?hl=%2Boil+%2Bpan+%2Breplacement

At some point in time there was a group of automotive engineers who were mad at the world and especially hated automotive technicians. Well this group of vile, conniving, mean spirited individuals were having their weekly breakfast get together at the local IHOP and were especially soured this particular morning. One proposed the question of how to really fuck over them damn mechanics whom for some reason they all loathed immensely. They sat there and pondered the idea and came up with..........the Transit. Thanks Ford (mumbles obscenities under breathe).

Bahahahaha....wait....it's not funny now that I think about it, we have a bus coming in for that issue some time or another.

I've done it both ways and couldn't tell a difference.

In case anyone has ever wondered about taking a left cylinder head off without removing the turbo, here ya go. I had to replace some exhaust valves and the customer could not be talked into waiting for Ford’s update for the run rough issue whilst regening. I wasn’t interested in doing the job, seems like a waste of time. I had heard some rumors of performing the job like this and decided to give it a go. I traditionally like to get stuff out of the way and make the job go easier and smoother for myself. I have long given up on the flat rate system and I just get the job done when I get it done. So this was a step out of my normal but it went ok. I basically approached it with the mind set of removing as little as possible while still being able to get the head out of the engine bay. At this point I have drained the primary cooling system and removed the upper and lower intakes. I did this job about a year ago and now I am having trouble remembering why I took the egr cooler off. I do it to make it easier to get the fuel supply line out but it can be snaked out from under the cooler assy a whole lot easier than trying to get the left exhaust manifold out with the turbo in the way. The turbo coolant pipe and heater hose pipe, crankcase vent separator, fuel filter housing, and fuel pump supply lines have been removed. Now it’s time to get to the meat and potatoes of the job. The fuel lines and rail have been removed. It’s easier to take the “return” line off last and install it first. Return line and harness out of the way and last but not least the fuel injectors are removed before the valve cover comes off. I keep the injectors in order but I still take a picture of the IQA codes with my phone. Some people opt to flip the injector hold down over and hit with a hammer to pop the injector out. I always use the special tool to remove the injectors as the hold down crabs on these things are way too fragile in the first place and prone to breaking without warning. I have removed the degas bottle and intercooler but I have clamped the secondary cooler lines off and the cooling system is still full. Valve cover off. Next is the valve train and the exhaust manifold. Alright, so I live in the South and this is a low mileage truck. It’s basically like working on a PDI. After removing these couple of shield fasteners, the shield is easily worked out of its home with the slightest bit of massaging. All the bolts come right out and can be reused if need be, no torches, drilling or any of that silliness. I think the torque wrenches in Mexico are on a different calibration level than the U.S. I had every intention of removing the manifold completely, however the back 3 up-pipe nuts were beyond tight. The spec. is something like 18 foot pounds and the last set I checked had a break-a-way torque of over 80 foot pounds!!!!!! I put a wrench on the one nut I could get to and quickly gave up and moved on. So I removed the 8 nuts, 8 studs, and manifold gasket and left the manifold in place, still attached to the up-pipe. I always de-torque the head bolts before getting after them with air tools. I left everything in place on the front except for the alternator, then unbolted the bracket from the head. Now all the bolts are out of the head and I have ratchet strapped the manifold out of the way to get to the top bolts and allow room to remove the head. And she is out. Fun stuff. When cleaning cylinder heads, I always chase the exhaust manifold threads. You don’t want to find out there is a problem with the threads when you’re trying to wrench one of those studs in beside the turbo. And that's it reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

P207F is the equivalent of a small evap leak code for gassers.

I like that mezzanine, we had one very similar to that in Vermont.

Holy Shnikes.....you're gonna have to add some sort of fuel storage treatment to your fuel tank, like a winterization deal, to keep the gas fresh.

There was a stop sale in the states recently due to the larger oring being too big. It created a huge shortage on these filters because everyone was instructed to send them back if they fell within a certain date code. You guys may be feeling the ripple effect of this scenario.

I wished they used different bolts.........like a quick release clamp.

Had the exact same situation with a Mustang, put the regular stock filter set up back on it and it was as right as rain. The owner just had bought the car so he was more than ok with tossing the "hot air intake" filter setup.

If you send raw fuel into the cats on a gasser the vehicle will eventually not run, if you don't send raw fuel into the cat on a diesel it will eventually not run. It's a topsy-turvy world we live in.

Did one Monday, it was a simple reprogram (TSB) and then perform a drive cycle. I got lucky because the truck had made it all the way down to the speed limited to 50 MPH derate, and I needed to drive it to complete an SCR drive cycle. A DEF drive cycle wouldn't address the message center. Unfortunately I had about 2 hours in it and the TSB pays .7

My general rule of thumb on injectors causing a no start is extremely high IPR duty cycle at idle.

Sounds like you got it figured out already, I of course am no use to you in this department, I listen to what ever I can tune on my crappy radio or Sirius in the wife's car.

And it pays a whopping 1.3 hours to boot.

Don't move to NC.....starting pay here for a tech that knows what he's doing is around 15 bucks an hour.

Here are some photos: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/topic/4829-cab-on-engine-out/

That's a damn neat trick.

This is the same process we are using in class on a Duramax that was filled with gasoline.

This is a pretty big hurdle my guys have to get over in class......gage vs. absolute. Their eyes light up like kids on Christmas morning, though when they finally get it and use it in real world applications.

Dustin is referring to an off the shelf, available to anyone in the general motoring public, with comparable options to other manufacturers type truck that would list for 100k.

I think he dropped a quarter in there or something, just kidding. That's a pretty old photo so I don't really remember. I saw him crawling around up there all the way from my bay and I had to grab my camera out of my box......he never knew I took the photo.