Brad Clayton

Fuck all......them bearings are gonna be short lived. You can't keep a set of bearings in one of these engines with good oil pressure all the time!

I have done a couple. It seems like a waste of time. The customers just could not be talked out of the repair and they didn't want to wait on the flash. Of course the trucks I have done ran like shit when the concern was happening. I have not spoke with any higher ups on what and why. It seems that those in the know have secrets they want to keep to themselves.

Oh man, absolutely nothing would get done in my shop if this were true. It took almost two weeks to get "management" to straighten out a fuck up they made on my name for my FMC login so I get could get a D plan pin.

I've had some funky things like that happen when guys change one filter at a time and crank it in-between.

That's cool, I like when things pan out like that.....I actually got a chance to talk to Ernie from "ask Ernie" way back in the day.

I had the same issue on mine and the axle seal was leaking trans fluid, so I took the opportunity to drain the unit on vehicle while I replaced the seal set. I just removed both inner and outer seals and tipped the car on it's edge with one side of the lift so the ptu gear oil could drain out as much as possible. I refilled it with fresh 75w 140 and was good to go. I couldn't afford to replace that unit so I wanted to take care of it as best as I could. That was at 70k, I just serviced the car last week with 155k on it now and the fluid was nice and thin but black. Them little units take a beating for sure and we drive the wheels off the thing to begin with.

That's as bad as being "Rick Roll'd"

Them piles of shit are every where around here in eastern North Carolina, along with Aerostars and Lincoln LS's. It's a frickin nitemare I tell ya. Oh Escorts and Tempos are runnin around here and there also.

You gentlemen bring up some good points however you have left out one very important factor..............factory warranty. Chrysler has the absolute worst labor times in the history of the automobile and Ford has followed suite with the 6.7 Powerstroke. So yes I would definitely suggest talking to the existing help and find out what there customer pay to warranty ratio is keeping in mind that you may be cutting into that one way or the other and thus making enemies or friends. It could be all peaches and cream or a tricky situation

Uh, I just chalked it up to that little black rain cloud that hangs out over New Jersey.

Ford released that as a special tool to get the heater hoses off The Mark VIII when it debuted. Those were a bit of a bear to get at and it also works well for a 1995 Contour lower radiator hose (engine side) clamp.

What's that all about?

I'm not sure what your failed part is but I can say that a maxed out IPR (85%) with subsequent stall represents a MASSIVE leak, not a small, hard to detect leak, but a relatively easy one to spot. It will be leaking from the time you start the engine (cold) to the time it shuts down. In other words you don't have to get the engine red hot and then start looking for any oil leaks.

Does it start pretty quick after if cools down?

:rockon: :rockon:

I started dong partial cab lifts all the way back in 1993 when Ford introduced the Turbo version of the 7.3 IDI. Life became less complicated immediately. There are 2 different partial cab lifts......1 is where the cab is not entirely unbolted from the frame such as leaving the 2 rear bolts tight and thus no alignment procedures are needed (my favorite) and then there is the complete cab detachment from the frame but the body is only lifted a foot or so due to overhead restrictions (mothers shelf, boom, welded on rack, ect.) In this day and age you have to do what you can in order to get the job done in a timely manner and draw a paycheck. If a diesel engine is coming out the front of the truck then it gets a partial cab lift every time no exceptions. All the bolts are removed except the rear two and the cab is raised in the front 4 or 5 inches (looks like an alligator mouth or clam shell). If you look at the shop manual for engine removal on a 7.3 with a manual trans, it will call for trans removal first. This is because the input shaft is so damn long that the engine will hit the body and the number 1 cross member before the input shaft clears the clutch. With the alligator procedure, the trans can stay in and save tons of time. I quit removing the body to replace 6.0 or 6.4 engines, its just not needed to get them out and I can save a lot of time not having to align the body afterwards. I still remove bodys to access turbos (6.4) and heads (6.0) and I will remove the body to get a 6.7 out because I can leave all the exhaust intact ( removing the turbo in chassis to get the lift plate bolted down sucks).

Looks like Aaron was a no show on posting up any helpful hints.

.

I usually wad them first.

You can use these for the time being.

I thought he had, he said he will cobble up a reply tonight involving his ordeal.

I do believe Aaron has, let me check.