Brad Clayton

That would be me.

We get injectors from the dealer, they have a fair price and good warranty.

They have a really nice website, very well laid out with nice color photos. We use there stuff a lot at the indy I work for.

I hate the fact that these sensors kill the truck. It has happened to me on a test drive and I know how to handle a broken vehicle and it was still a handful trying to get off the road without getting into an accident. I worked on a 2015 with a mil on and egt 1 flagged for reading high, but the truck was still driveable. Has the calibration been changed to deal with this issue?

I have never bought shop support items, nor will I ever. Fuckin dealer makes millions of dollars every year, they can buy what we need to support their beach front property.

I was looking at your dealer and saw a boat load of ATV's and equipment in the showroom.

What are you guys a motorsport store also?

The indy I sub for has 200 PSI shop air!! But they also use 1 inch" impacts.

Because that style air box is complete junk!! Navistar engineers cringe when you talk about Ford pickup air filtration systems.

I started torqueing ball joints after having a tight steering/returnability issue on a really rusted Super Duty.

That's when you knock the dust off the NGS.

Lets make sure we are DRing for a review on all the 6.7 water pumps, for sure.

The most difficult part about a ZF 6 speed is the amount of press pressure it takes to get the gears off the main shaft. It's a bit on the hairy side if you have a worn out press.

This has to be one of the better articles I have ever read concerning the subject: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/

Exhaust manifold gaskets have now been superseded to an FC3Z-9448-A

The infamous "J-Hook"

I think this is what the guy was talking about.

I don't miss them days!

What kinda deal they got to run the fast idle? It may have gone awry.

Who has time to change fuel filters?

I worked with a couple of Navistar engineers that had this little bottle of magic that would make even the shittiest oil run as if it were brand new CJ oil. All it took was a thimble full of fluid added to the crankcase. Too bad we can't get our hands on some of that!

I just had another one come in that caught fire, but the bracket bolt for the pipe was missing instead of the cooler bolt. So I wonder if a dose of medium strength blue is in order for both bolts. The one in the picture above will need some heat to get it apart because I used red stuff. I have since switched to blue.

I don't think it's so much that they aren't large enough. I think it's that they didn't put anything on them. Or they loctited them in. I laughed when the directions said to use loctite on the bolts into the egr valve, then I smeared them up with anti-seize and screwed them in, The shop manual states to apply loc-tite only to the bracket bolt that goes into the egr cooler. This is extremely important and must be done to prevent the bracket from coming loose, allowing the egr supply pipe to wiggle around and break, and then set fire to the surrounding plastic bits.

How do you get to the brackets and harness on the back of the cooler if you don't pull the intake? They can be easily accessed from under the vehicle, it helps to have long arms though.