Brad Clayton

Fuckin hell, Jasper still wants over $8000 for a 6.5. Most of the trucks are only worth $300 depending on how much fuel is in the tank.

I used to weld them, drill them, or what ever it took. Now, I just replace em.

I am not a fan of Gas Monkey Garage, but I am a fan of this truck. https://youtu.be/2m7F7jMIE9k

I love workin on deleted 6.4's........thermostats are tit!

Shiiiit, 7.3's are like stray kittens around here in NC..........they're everywhere.

You can calculate the time by factoring in the extra steps required after the injectors are removed. So you've got the labor time for injector R&R, then you need to drain and refill the coolant, my puller setup I made requires that the rocker arms be removed, so I factor that in and the time to pop 1 cup out and clean the loc tite out of the head, and bang a new one in.....times 8. Obviously you want to be competitive and fair to your customer, but you need to look out for yourself also. If the customer baulks at a given quote, tell them how much it would cost them if you removed the heads and did it on the bench. That usually squashes any arguments.

Nice find!!! I just went to the website and ordered a set for our shop truck.

Well it turns out the tensioner update is for the 5.0L. So there goes that idea. I'm gonna stick a set of belts on it and see what happens.

I got this truck with only 20k on it and it's the 3.5 engine. It was towed in with both belts gone. Well the stretchy a/c belt is stuffed down behind the crank pulley. I looked at all the pulleys and such and don't really have an explanation as to why it slung the belts off. I seem to remember an update to install a tensioner kit to convert the stretchy to a normal but not sure what the reason was other than making it......you know.....like it should be. Any thoughts?

I use a Porta power and a come along.

yup

Sometimes you have to back up a year model on Alldata. A 2011 shows 2.9 hrs for that operation.

It is possible to install a 6.4 air filter backwards.......the engine and air filter housing aren't partial to this practice though.

I do it the way Chris does with the wheel on. It gives me a nice fulcrum to check for end play and an easy way to spin the assembly. I put a lot of grease in them and it can sometimes create a lot of drag giving the appearance that the bearings are too tight. I always preload taper bearings and wheel bearings are no different, especially when it comes to a full floating rear axle hub assembly.

I always grab the first set I do and then reinstall the rest......that's on any engine. I've never been called in the office for such practices. I just did a complete 67 drop in and it did not come with lifting brackets. Guess what? I couldn't find mine. Karma can be a bitch sometimes.

Lost as in too busy making youtube vids and no time for forums.

Looks like a trend is forming. Tons of buzz about this on public forums.

Are you telling me we lost a member to Youtube? That Youtube is a powerful beast.

I watched a few videos a long time ago and thought to myself........I really don't want the general motoring public to know some of this stuff also.

Please dont change your avatar to this guys mug.

Touche my friend touche. I was going to add the little doodad above the letter e but it's a bit aggravating with windows 8 and a laptop without a number pad. Two things I looked at when I started removing cabs on non superdutys......how tight is the engine between the firewall and the radiator support when being lifted out and how hard is it to get to the bell housing bolts and o2 connectors/exhaust. A Ranger or Explorer with a SOHC engine can be a bit tight in the bolt area but easily clears the firewall and rad support, so in this instance, I would not remove the cab to get the engine out. A V-8 F-150 on the other hand is wicked tight betwixt the front and back sheet metal. I pulled an engine out of the first cab forward design in 1997 and thought it was ridiculous. I then had to do a stick shift engine in a '97 and thought it was just down right asinine. After that and every since then I have pulled the cabs on F series for anything from engine replacements to head gaskets to valve stem seals.

I recently had a doozy of an oil leak on a 2008 F-450 with a 6.4 and 175k on the clock. It turned into more of a stubborn oil leak to be honest with you. The truck came to me from another shop that had been round robin with the thing. This came to them from their customer that had been dealing with it long before them. The thing was a mess, a hack had been into it previously and shit was just wrecked. I think it should be criminal for people to be allowed to perform such atrocities to a vehicle. I noticed pretty quickly that the oil drain back tube for the crankcase separator was in question due to its routing and contact with the a/c belt. The oil leak was originating from the front of the engine and to the right side some where. I replaced the tube and degreased the engine and sent it on it's way. It came back the next week with the same issue. Against better judgement (I told them the engine needs to come out as something is seriously wrong with it) I replaced the front crank seal. It still leaked. The customer came up to get some stuff out of the truck and told me that him and his buddy pulled the motor in his yard and had someone rebuild it. He then tells me that he put not 1, not 2, but 3 front crank seals in it trying to cure this oil leak. Well now we are onto seal number 4. I then pulled the front cover thinking that they wrecked the bed plate gasket, I mean why not, they wrecked everything else. No such luck and I had to put it back together with you guessed it, seal number 5. I took it for a rip and it leaked. I cleaned it off and let it idle for 3 hours with not a drip nor drop of oil fell to the floor. Took it for another rip and it looks like I ran over a 55 gallon barrel of oil........i.e. it still leaks. So up to this point I have been begging and pleading with all involved to let me pull the engine so we could quit dicking around and squash this thing once and for all. And up to this point many things have led me to the direction as to what is wrong with the truck, although I will admit I ignored most of the indicators. #1. The customer obviously butchered this thing and anything he touched is called into question also anyone he knows that "rebuilt" the engine is subject to the same scrutiny. #2. Lots of carry over oil in the charge air cooler system. #3. No leak at idle........lots of leak while driving. #4. A shit ton of front crank seals replaced and it still appears to be leaking at the front crank seal. So the shop owner that is the middle man in this thing came by last night and we were brainstorming and he mentioned the turbos. I said they were kinda of difficult to check for a pushing oil concern, however I could do a quick crankcase pressure test. I really never thought to do one before because the engine only has 1300 miles since it was put back into service. Well I did said test this morning and she blew an 11 inh2o at idle............at idle. She then proceeded to hit 44 inh2o before getting to 3000 rpm. It's kinda hard to believe that it wasn't popping the glow plug harnesses out of the valve covers. The customer declined to go any further and I think they know they got something out of whack in this engine from their previous repair. So I put it back in working order and punted that bitch.

I'm up to my eyeballs in 15M01's.

I would definitely be working from the pump back, if you have 70ish PSI off the front tank and less than 70ish PSI off the rear tank. The fact that you have to drive if for a while backs up what's being said here with a possible restriction being built up as fuel is pumped out of the tank. I would put the pressure gage back on it or monitor the fuel pressure pid while driving off the rear tank and see what you can see.