dieseldoc

I looked for one and didnt find anything, but I will look again in some creative places. I am going to replace the ICP and then send him off to the dealer, since I cant flash software. I kind of hope he doesnt come back to me in the future, he has been far from honest with me right from the beginning. I asked him 3 times what happened and it was a different story each time, I asked him to bring me the old harness so I could see what wires he pulled out(and I want the old one for the connectors)tells me he cant find it anymore. Thanks for the input guys.

thanks I will call and see if they can do anything with that number.

I have an 03 F-250. Customer was going to fix an oil leak on the back of the engine himself, and somehow pulled a couple of wires out of the ficm connector. He took it to a place and they put the wires back in for him and it now wont start. He put a new harness in, still wont start. So he brought it to me. After correctly routing the harness and hooking all the sensors up. I charged the batteries, checked all the fuses and relays,ok. I hooked up the scan tool and have lots of wierd codes, I am sure from the batteries being at 10 volts. I cleared everything to start from a clean slate. I perform KOEO and got a P2285 ICP circuit low, U0105 loss comm. with FICM, U0306 software incompatible with FICM. I tried the injector buzz test, and nothing happens, the scan tool comes up with an incorrect software message. Is it possible they hooked the wires up wrong and erased the ficm or fried it? The FICM VPWR PID says 10 volts, and FICM MPWR PID says 40 V, both of wihich are low. I am wondering if this is something I should keep working on or send to the dealer since I dont have software flashing capabilities. Your thoughts are much appreciated, thanks

We are in the harvest season here and that means 60-80 hour work weeks for me. Once harvest is over I will begin on the project. I have a list of parts that my parts guys is working on getting together for me. So once the snow flies the fun will begin.

Is the ICP sensor a ford only part or can I get it from my International dealer? I took the engine serial number into my dealer and told them what I needed. The parts guy didnt seem to enthused about helping me and said "that serial number doesnt come up, thats a ford only part anyway". I have had a lot of trouble with them trying to get parts. If it is available from IH does anybody have the part number? Thanks, oh it is a 03 6.0

I believe on the 6.0 that there is an adapter that is bolted to the crank and than the crank is machined. In the work shop manual they tell you to never disturb these bolts or the crank is scrap metal. Perhaps this adapter has come loose or the crank is broke or the thrust bearing is gone. In any case the engine has to come out. Whoa i just realized this is a bit of an old post. What did you find??

Contact your local caterpillar dealer. We have one of the best failure analysis programs out there. We have had john deere and komatsu guys want to take out program. When I went there was failure analysis 1, it was about a 40 hour course. Then I had failure analysis 2 that too was about a 40 hour course. The materials are incredibly detailed with great pictures, examples, and explanations.

oil samples are wonderful things. I take oil samples at every oil change( I work for a cat dealer and get a great deal on them). Samples also work the best to track trends when they are consistently taken. I get my results the next day it seems. I noticed that I had a high silicon content on my 06' the first three oil changes(caused when engine is apart for repair, or dirt ingestion. My engine had not been opened up yet so I check all my intake clamps and the one at the turbo inlet was loose. Tightened the clamp and checked all the others and the silicon content went down to normal/acceptable levels. Oil sampling saved me an engine. I am a very big believer in oil sampling and and coolant sampling as well.

Physical size of the 3126B as compared to a b series cummins out of a dodge are pretty close. I am not worried about the weight to much. The pick-up started life as a f-250. That dastardly twin I-beam front end had to go, so a dana 60 solid was installed with new 1 ton springs with an add a leaf. The 3126 is about 300 lbs heavier than the psd. I am sure the project will be expensive and I have no intentions of ever selling this. I am going with the manual because they are a little cheaper to buy and I am one of those guys that like to shift my gears. That and this pick-up has a 5 spd manual in it now. My plasma cutter, torch and welder will get a work out that is for sure. Definitely will be building a foam mock up engine. I mostly want to do this because I have never seen or heard of one, and people have told me I cant. All the challenges will make this interesting and definitely worth while when its done. Keep up with the ideas and suggestions guys I am all ears. Thanks

I have really lost interest in the diesel power magazine. They must have changed editors or something. It is not as good as it used to be. There technical knowledge is really lacking and there article choices of late have not been that great. I know when my subscription is up i wont be renewing it.

WOW! There is definitely some interest. I will give you some details. I am more than willing to hear suggestions as I go. Seein as how I am into uncharted territory here. My motivation for this project is: 1)I am a cat guy(my blood runs yellow folks) 2)I love my powerstrokes but I pull real heavy loads and would like a little more horsepower and torque, but I want it lower in the rpm range 3)lots of people have put a cummins into a ford, I have not seen a CAT in a ford yet 4)this is the biggest reason of all I have had several people tell me I CANT. Bruce makes very good points about the cost and challenges associated with the frame strength, wiring, mounts, brackets, etc. I am a single guy with no kids, my girlfriend is used to me being at the shop late and working my weekends away there. I plan to use a 6 or 7 speed eaton transmission and going with a divorced transfer case set up. The powerstroke in my pick-up is about worn out and ready for a rebuild. I have priced out the options of rebuilding it and found that I can rebuild this 3126B for about the same cost. This definitely will not be a fast project but I think it will be worth while. I will do my best to put together a presentation as I go and when I am done. I am a nuts and bolts, wrenches and steel kind of guy and not real good with computer stuff like powerpoints.

I have decided to begin a project that I think will be very cool or the stupidist thing I have ever taken on. I have just purchased a 3126B Cat engine(for a really great price). I intend to put it into a 96 F-350, replacing the worn out 7.3. Many have asked the question of Why?? I respond with have you seen anybody do this yet? If anyone is interested in seeing the progress of this project I will keep this thread updated. If nobody wants to see or hear anything about this let me know and I wont take up the space of the forum.

My dad owns a courier service and one of his drivers has done a lot of research on this stuff. He also has a system on one of his cars, it doubled his mileage and helped with the throttle response. He says it is supposed to work on diesels as well. He was asking me about it. I have started looking into this a little. I am a skeptic, but am intrigued. This will be an interesting topic to keep going and see what we come up with. I am going to look into this some more, than maybe try it on a few diesels and see what it does. I will be sure to let everyone know what we find.

Well it is definitely an interesting turn of events. I have to be honset though I am a little sad my blood runs yellow with little blue ovals. It will be the end of an era. There is definitely a learning curve with the new engines this time around, but they arent to bad. The bad part about this whole deal is the chassis I absolutely hate working on the most is an Intersmashemall. However I am curious as to what will happen to my job???? Obviously we will have to support the product we currently have out there. The question is will my shirt say cat or international in a couple years? Will cat dealers begin to buy truck dealerships? Questions that we will have to wait for answers too.

Some of those ideas are awesome!!!! I cant wait to go to work on tomorrow. . .muahahaha. I of course will have to go into work early on monday and watch the hilarity. I usually get the new guys training with me for a while. Everybodies first overahaul has that terrible sounding(3/4" wrench on the bumper or frame rail)knock. The look on their face is priceless. We had one tech school kid that came in for his co-op training. He was a real smartass with all the answers and was faster than all of us. He worked with me on an overhaul of a 3406E. During the tear down I told him to put on his safety glasses and watch the rod as we pulled the number 6(first liner outof the engine)out to make sure that it didnt hit the crank and scratch it. Whoosh the block drained as the liner came out. We all laughed histerically, He changed his uniform and wasn't so cocky anymore.

Finally removed the old IDM to install the new one and heard slosh slosh. Ideas on how the water got into the module? The whole unit is sealed up with silicone, no visible cracks, connector seal was in place and the connector was tight. I know I have read something on this issue here before but having trouble finding it. If I remember correctly it is a bigger issue on the econolines. But I think some of you guys have fabricated up some shields to help prevent this problem. Thanks for the help guys and I will keep looking. Guess I should have looked harder first. I found the thread I was looking for. In this 96 F-250 there is no bracket for keiths suggestion. I will have to get inventive to find a way to shield the vent hole. I am open to anybodys suggestions though

I have a hard time taking fords reccomended service intervals seriously. I have an 06 f-250 that has just turned 30,000 mi. I took a look into the operation and maintenance manual for reccomended fluid change and was very surprised at what I saw. It said to not even remove the plug for the rear end unless a visisble leak was seen, that the fluid is "synthetic" and good for the life of the vehicle. Now I dont know about anybody else but I was taught from the old school. Where you check ALL the fluid levels at oil change interval. And the phrase "oils and filters are a lot cheaper than a failed component" was hammered home. Needless to say the fluids were quite expensive but next weekend I will be changing the fluids. Like I always say "Big trucks, Big bucks. Its the nature of the beast"

In my humble opinion of all the vehicles that are on the road emergency vehicles should be in the best condition. The liability that must be involved must be incredible. If the average guys pick up doesnt start or rear end blows out he is late for work, if it happens on an ambulance someone could DIE. Seems like a no brainer to me. Really makes you think though. Hmm. . . . . is the ambulance company in my town one of those doesnt spend any money on their fleet? could i die because they were to cheep to fix a bad wheel bearing?

Well guys I am really sorry to hear that your cat support is so terrible. I apolagize. Wish there was something I could do about it. There is nothing worse than having a product that you are supposed to sell and support. Yet no one will give you the information or tooling to do so.

Yes it is! I havent worked less than 55 hours a week in over a year. Found the spec in pinpoint test it is 2-4 ohms. Thanks for the assistance guys. Will the new IDM need to be programmed or are they ready to go out of the box? Never had to replace one before.

If your guys support is that bad there, maybe you should call and talk to mother CAT. I am sure she would dissaprove. I know our dealership isnt like that. I know we loan out tooling and help our teps dealers when they need it. We dont have a lot of CAT powered fords running around in our area, but we help when we can.

What a crazy week, havent had time to even look at that pick up till today. The fuel wasnt black, and I didnt find rubber pieces in the regualator. I did check the Injectors through the harness and they are all at 3.0 to 3.1 ohms. Since they are all the same I am assuming that this is the normal reading and they are ok. I am looking at the book now to try to find a spec for the injector resistence. I will order an idm tomorrow.

All the harnesses are good. I will definitely check for shorted injectors. If they check out ok, I will order an IDM. If I am wrong than I guess I have an expensive oops and back to the drawing board. The silver lining to that would be that than I will have a test IDM. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

First a little background on the rig in question. 96' F-250 7.3 and a 5 spd. The truck came to my shop on the hook, customer said it runs terrible(just bought it knew it ran like this, took the chance on getting a good deal). I start it up(very hard to get started), once it started sounded like it was running on 3 maybe 4 cylinders. I had to put it in 4low so it wouldnt die when I let the clutch out. Get it inside and check the oil and coolant. The oil looks like crude oil,below the add mark. Coolant looks terrible and no additive in it. The entire engine is covered in oil. I start to look it over: air filter plugged solid, drain out a fuel sample(very odd color and smell, API is high), Battery connections are green and fuzzy. Hook up the scan tool and all kinds of wierd faults that dont make sense. Gauge pod on the dash and and Banks sticker on the fan shroud. I change the oil and filter. Replace the air filter.Remove the fuel filter and it is black the media is kind of twisted around and appears to be aftermarket. Drain the filter bowl and there is all kinds of junk on the bottom. All fuel lines are leaking. I removed the filter base, clean the crap out of the bottom and clean out the pressure regulator. Replace the leaking water drain valve and all the fuel lines to the filter base and transfer pump. Only had a 1/4 tank of fuel, I sucked the fuel out and put 10 gallons of fresh clean fuel. Resealed the high pressure plugs in the head(were leaking really bad, cause of the oil soaked engine).I cleaned the battery connections and every ground and power I can find, assemble the grounds with star washers. Now I look for a chip in the PCM, between the grounds and the chip I figure here is my wierd fault codes. Remove the chip. I tested the glow plugs and find two bad(one on each bank). I remove the covers and replace all 8 glow plugs. While I'm here, I inspected the harnesses and connectors very closely. UVC harnesses, and gakset connectors, ok. Locks broke off engine harness, replace connectors. Put the covers back on with two bolts(just in case, have to go back in). Start the engine and it runs much better but still hase a very definite miss on a few cylinders probably and runs rough. Fuel psi is about 55-60 psi. Hooke up scan tool again the wierd faults are gone now, but still have a few faults(P0470 Exhaust psi sensor, P0603 internal control module KAM error). I figure that the P0470 not out of the ordinary on a 7.3, and P0603 is because the batteries were unhooked for a while. I perform injector buzz test, all cylinders click but the entire right bank(1,3,5,7) is much quieter than the right.I perform KOEO and get:P0470, P1293 Injector high side open bank 1, P1294 Injector high side open Bank 2. I troubleshoot the P0470 and find bad sensor and tube restricted. Clean out tube and replace the sensor.I perform all the pin point tests that are related to the codes and system. All the tests point to and IDM failure. I dont have a test IDM available. I have been listening Jim and am looking over the schematics for missing fuses, etc. now. My question is does it look to you that and IDM failure is likely in this situation? Have I overlooked something or missed a step? I will be double checking all my tests tomorrow. I apolagize for the long post, but wanted to give you guys all the info I had. Thanks a bunch in advance for any advice

I know this is a really old thread, but I am in need of a cut-out box for a 96 7.3. I have the box built and wired. Does anybody have the part numbers or the best place to get the 42 pin connector( be nice to have the 42 pin conn, so I could use it on 99-03 7.3s as well. But with the perdels pid dont think i would need it there) I am thinking of wiring it to go in series with the valve cover connectors. Does anybody have part numbers or a good place to get both half of the valve cover connectors? I have the repair kits for the engine harness side of the connector in my tool box but finding the cover gasket part of the connector has been tough. Thanks for the help guys.