dieseldoc

Thanks guys I will see what we find in the am. The brakes were in terrible shape before I worked on it. Felt a bit soft to me. But the pads were very worn, two calipers had stuck pistons and one had a stuck anchor pin. I replaced the rotors, pads, front wheel bearing assemblies, park brake shoes and backing plates as well as all 4 calipers. Sucked down the master cyl and filled with fresh fluid than let everything gravity bleed until clean fluid came from all 4 calipers. Than ran the abs bleed in scan tool and bled each caliper 3 times. Worked good than after sitting the weekend it felt funny to me so I ran the bleed procedure again and road tested. Sat a couple days and road tested again and brakes were good. Will let you know what I find if it’s jnot something obvious when I get there. I’m super fussy about brakes because of the potential outcome of a problem. I work 90% of the time with air brakes so wanting to cover all my bases on this one.

Morning gentlemen. This 2008 F-350 v10 and auto 4x4 is turning into a real nightmare. Did brakes and ended up replacing all 4 calipers. I sucked most of the old fluid out of the master cylinder and filled with new than teller the calipers all gravity bleed until clean fluid came out. I than bled the calipers all the way around. Than hooked up the service tool and did the brake bleed command twice in the abs module. I than bled all 4 corners again. Road test and all is good. Sat for two days waiting for parts for another segment on the RO. Go to move it and pedal to the floor. So I do the service bleed with scan tool twice and all is good. Park it and road test twice with a 24 soak each time and brakes are good. Release to customer. He drives it two days without issue. Calls this am and says pedal went quite always and now feels funny. Looking at it Monday, what am I missing?? Thanks in advance.

Working on a 2008 F-350 single wheel with a ford 10.5 rear axle. I put new bearings on the ring and pinion. I’ve used all the old shins and my backlash and pattern look good. I have the ford manual on dvd and tells me to refer to the specifications for pinion rotating torque with new bearings, when I get there no spec for it. I have gone up and down one year trying to find it with no luck. Could someone help me out with a spec please?? Pulling back apart to install the new crush sleeve and a seal now that I know my pattern and backlash are ok. I don’t have the special tools for all the shimming so we are making it work. Had to tap in the last side bearing shim and it rotates a little stiffer than before but not a lot as expected with new dry bearings. Hope the pre-load is ok. Wish manufacturers would offer skim kits instead of everything individually for jobs like this. Thanks guys

Hahaha. I figured that out after I posted this questions. I can unlock em with my mityvac but the pvh solenoid does not unlock them. Only puts 4” at the hub and vents and they won’t unlock. Hoping the new Ford pvh will do the job. The current issue me is aftermarket.

Have a 2008 F-350 with a 6.8 and auto with esof. The both hubs will not unlock. I have been through the pinpoint tests, with no results. Electrically things are right on. Tested vacuum supply to the pvh solenoid, 20”, tested vacuum to the hubs, 20” when switch is turned to 4x4. Switch it back to 2wd and I only get 4-4.5” to the hubs. Checked the vacuum at the hose at the solenoid with the same results. I thought perfect it’s not the right vacuum to release them. Tested for leaks and it will hold 6” for 10 minutes, holds 20” for 10 minutes without a drop. I have tried driving it some thinking torque wrap or something is keeping it from releasing. I applied 6.5” of vacuum to the hubs with my mityvac and still won’t unlock. Both hubs are in auto. Ordered a new pvh solenoid for just in case. I’m thinking there is something in the hubs causing the trouble.......... wierd that both sides would have a problem though. Open to suggestions or what have I missed? Thanks fellas

Got a 2003 ram 2500 with a gas engine. Has intermittent issue with the headlights. Other shops have looked at wiring, replaced the headlight switch 3 times and put a new tipm in it. Still has the issue of the headlights randomly going out. I have yet to get it to act up more than one time and lasted just long enough to get the hood open and they came back on and won’t act up since. I found a connector not latched on the bottom of tipm but that’s it. All connections appear to be secure and haven’t found any chaffed wires yet. Looking for some ideas here of issues you have found or areas to look at....... I ordered a schematic for the truck today to study and try to get a good place to start. Thanks for any help guys

That is true. If the book is possibly wrong maybe I should ask them for an oil temp sensor and see what I get. This is really starting to annoy the crap out of me. Remember the old days when you looked in a paper book or microfiche, 99%of the time you got the right part and it worked out of the box and actually lasted...... I will look up the part when I get to the shop, invoice and part are on the bench

Got an 02’ 550, 7.3 and auto. Came for leaking water pump. Pull it apart and the sensor housing is cracked. Put in a new water pump, stat, housing, hoses and a coolant temp sensor in the water pump. Start back up and gauge reads normal temp with engine stone cold outside( -15 F). Unplug sensor and gauge drops to cold, short the pins and gauge pegs hot and check gauges message comes on. Call parts they swear to me the sensor is correct and that’s what it was built with and this sensor has been used from 99-04. So I get another thinking it’s a failed new part( happens sometimes) same issue. Go to another truck that temp gauge works as it should and plug in both new sensors and same issue on that truck. So this tells me it’s an issue with the sensor. The original had a gray body and was keyed. New sensor is black with no key. Can anybody shed some light on what the deal is? I have asked twice to make sure they are not getting the oil temp and coolant temp mixed up, they assure me nope this is the one in the water pump. Thanks guys

Afternoon gents. I have a 4R100 in a 2001 f550. Servicing the trans And you can no longer buy Mercon from Ford for some time now. I know there was a big controversy back in the day about using mercon v in a 4r100. I have been told that it will fry the clutches(independent trans shop) was told is compatible now just pour it in(ford parts Dept). Was told to Drain, change filter, flush 4-6 quarts through when you refill via the return cooler line at the back of trans and you will be good to go ( ford service Dept). Looking for an answer from someone or group in this case I can trust. What have you guys seen with this scenario, what’s your preferences??

Working on a 08 6.4 in an f-350. Had coolant temp and egr temp fault codes. Start digging and the insulation is gone at the coolant temp connector. Unhooked it and start cutting back the loom and it’s gone soon as you touch it. The connectors are broken and held on with zip ties on almost all sensors you can see. The insulation is crumbling away where the coolant temp lead gets to the junction of the harness. My question is what is involved to change the entire engine harness? Partial cab lift and turbo and intake removal plus the accessories on front of the engine to access cam and crank sensors? How many hours do you guys charge for this? This thing is in tough shape........... runs a bit rough on start up for about 10 seconds, stft on cylinder two is 10, oil all over underneath. Any input much appreciated, thank you in advance.

Ok thanks. Just asking to see if anyone has done it. I’m hoping it’s possible since they are essentially an f-series I’m hoping they didn’t get rid of that part of the system ( wiring, pcm strategy, etc). when they made it an excursion. I’m looking at buying one and curious if they will work. It will be pulling a car trailer with a 4 seater side by side/ or snowmobiles to the mountains. Would be nice to have the factory brake controller and upfitter switches are always nice to have for adding accessories/lights or what have you.

Can you put upfitter switches and factory brake controller in a 2005 excursion with a 6.0l in it? Or are they not wired for them thanks guys

Wow I was way off......that’s why you gotta have the vin....hahahaha its a 2007...2/07 build date 7FA90229

Morning guys. I have a 2011 F-150 with 5.4 coming next week. I listened to this a week or so ago. It has the common tapping of a phaser and rattle at start up. It has 150,000 miles on it. I reccomended they do chains, tensionera, guides, phasers, vct solenoids the whole ball of wax and get all the updates parts in it. What kind of time are you guys charging for this job? I did one like 5-6 years ago and dont remember how long it took to do. Also if anybody has any advice of look for this or make sure you replace this while you are there I am open to it. Thanks guys, love this forum it is a great resource.

Sounds good Bruce thank you. I may take you up on the offer to call before I order to make sure I order what I need and not end up with something I don’t. I do mostly heavy trucks and machines at my shop and only a few pickups a month. But from all the reading and videos I’ve been watching I think I could use it a lot on heavy trucks and equipment as well. Once I learn how to use it anyway, looks and sounds like a steep learning curve. But hey if it was easy everybody would do it right...lol

So I’m planning to order a picoscop in the next month. I’m wondering if you guys have run into any problems or issues with a Pico and IDS on the same laptop and running at the same time during diagnostics? Im going to assume it wouldnt be an issue since ford offers the vmm designed to run and work with ids but want to make sure. Be nice to have one computer for everything instead of lugging around a couple of them. Looking at ordering the Pico Diesel kit. Is there anything else that’s a must have that wouldn’t come in the kit? The diesel kit come with the scope, leads, low and high amp probes and a few probes and tips.

Thanks guys I’ve heard guys talk about the lisle 3v kit and the timesert set up for 2 valves. But wanted opinions from guys that have actually used them likely quite a bit.

Hey guys. Been a long time since I’ve posted but been swamped the last 6 months. I have a 2 valve 6.8 that showed up with a blown out spark plug. Wondering what tools you guys have found works best for this particular job? Also have a 3v 5.4 on the schedule for a spark plug change. Wondering what your preferred tool is for dealing with broken plugs. Murphy’s law says if I’m prepared for the worst I won’t need the tools. Ha ha ha. Thanks for the input guys..

I worked for a cat dealer for 9 years. We were paid hourly, benefits were excellent. The tooling and tech support was fantastic(at my dealer anyway). The reason I left there is the oil field was booming big time here, after three years of 70-100 hour weeks and no relief in sight I had enough. They had us going out to the oil fields 2 weeks min at a time every month or two. The work was good and plentiful. Cat no longer produces an on highway engine or truck anymore so they are getting creative trying to keep there truck shops busy. The cat suppprt will likely be great but anything else coming in the door will be like working at an Indy shop most likely. There's good and bad everywhere you go. Most truck shops you end up starting on the night shift, generally they pay a differential for it though.Do the research on the shops and ask around about them. I ask if I can go around and talk to some of the techs in the shop to see what they have to say about the place,( there will be gripes but you can usually get a general feel in a few minutes). Good luck and hope you find what you are looking for.

John Deere is doing telematics in there machines now, if you pay the subscription of course. You can call the dealer and say this light came on, they log into your account and can see everything as if they had scan tool hooked up. Also with auto steer now you can program the machine to do everything for you( pick up the implement, turn at the end, put the implement back in the ground). All you have to do is drive it to the field you want and push the button. Crazy expensive so not to many people use it around here, but it's there. The combine can take control of the grain cart tractor and position it where it wants. All for a not so small fee of course. It is crazy what's out there and where will it go?

I haven't replaced anything on it yet. Wanted a diagram to track down the issue. I appreciate the responses. Truck is coming back late next week. Will pay the subscription for gmsi and see what we find out. I suspected the switch but you can hear the module click when using the switch and it won't open. Aftermarket fob does not work, the handle won't open it and the switch inside on the overhead console won't pop it either. Each will make the module relay click in the back. Need to dig into it and find what's missing or going on. Thanks again

So apparently ford has forgotten about or is ignoring what they told us a few years ago about studs. Didn't they tell us that the use of head studs was not approved because the threads and holes in the blocks was not sufficient for the use of head studs.......... could be wrong but I have heard this statement many times over the years. Maybe ford didn't make that statement, can't remember for sure. Obviously they work just fine because we have been installing them for 10 years or more without issues

Vin number of the vehicle is 1GKS2CE08BR355627. I see you go to gmsi and pay $20 bucks for 3 day subscription. Anybody used this before, is it worth while?

Customer needed the car back til next week. Will see if we have the vin on the workorder yet. I forgot to mention that this Yukon has the power open/close feature with a lift gate module. My solus will work with the body and lift gate module and will run bidirectional controls on it. I will get a vin soon as I can. Thanks for the help so far

I know this is a Ford dealer forum but some of you guys are multi brand so figure I'd throw it out. Got an 11 Yukon that the lift gate won't open on. The fuse and relay in the panels are ok. You can hear the module click when you hit either switch but nothing happens. I had to pull the trim back and pop the latch manually to get the gate open. Removed the panel to access the latch and sensors. Than of course it worked fine 50 times. So went and drove it on the roughest roads I could find thinking there is an intermittent connection. Came back to the shop and worked fine. Let it sit outside for a couple hours while pilulled a trans down for overhaul. Went back out and tried it and wouldn't open. Pull it in the shop and it won't open. Once I popped the latch manually now it works fine again. My thought is the latch mechanism, it was replaced 5 months ago ( not that that means anything at all). Looking for some insights as to cause of this issue, am be a tsb or something on it. A quick search of google it appears to be a common issue. Gmc was out of stock on the latch. Have ground and power to the latch. But I'm having trouble getting a schematic or theory of operation for the system to really dig into it. This is where being at an Independent shop sucks. Any help or advice would be much appreciated. Thanks guys