dieseldoc

Were you able to determine the solenoids at fault by a pressure test or by electrical test? Or was it a process of elimination? Thanks for the tips guys hoping to look at this truck tomorrow and hopefully narrow something down.

I need to look at this truck closer, but sure seems like a wire or sensor type issue. The truck worked great and than boom like you flipped a switch it does not want to move. No signs(slipping, burnt smell or look of fluid) of trans issue, just pulled up to a stop light and than the truck would not move unless you put it down in 1 or 2 on the indicator. Thanks Bruce. If anybody else has any memories on where rubs were common at on these trucks, or anything else it is much appreciated. I am hoping to look at this truck a bit closer this weekend, will report more details if I find any.

Havent had much time to look at this truck yet. I am not much of an auto trans guy, have never really worked on any. Have a 99 F-350 drw with 7.3 4x4 with auto trans. Customer concern of no forward/reverse unless lever down in 2 or 1 on indicator. I hooked up and and had P0705,P0732 in history. Pulled a P0705 in KOEO test and P1705 in KOER test. The cust. was running down interstate and took the off ramp, stopped at the light. Tried to accelerate from stop and engine speed increased but truck did not move, dropped into 1 and truck moved. Tried to back into a parking spot and it would not go into reverse. Fluid level is full, inspected connectors at the trans and no corrosion or bent terminals. Thats all I've had a chance to look at right now. Curious if you guys know of a common thing(fuse, sensor adj., etc) I should look at or just send him to the trans shop? Hes been a good customer, but this is a bit out of my expertise(lack of experience and tooling, etc). Thanks for your thoughts guys

Well guys I think I have made up my mind and going to go with my original idea. I am going to find a 01" or 02" truck that is close and make it the truck I am searching for. I will find a solid crew cab 7.3 truck with a 6spd and build the rest of the truck to my specs. May take a while longer but in the end I think that is about the only way I am going to be satisfied with what I have. Thanks for all the input guys

If you search on ebay you can find the factory service information dvds reasonably priced. The dvd contains the service manual, wiring diagrams, pinpoint tests, the whole ball of wax.

I am religious about maintenance with my vehicles, so no problem there. So if a guy found a rig that was a 1 owner with good maintenance history you wouldnt shy away from it? I personally havent worked on one of the newer trucks other than oil and filters. But reading through the forums on here you see the horror stories of melted pistons and blown up engines, makes a guy a bit leary of getting in to one of these trucks used. Poor maintenance is the killer of anything, but these seem to be more susceptible catastophic consequences. What kind of mileage are you guys seeing the 6.4, 6.7 trucks, if you own one or happen to notice the overhead monitors(I know there not accurate but a ballpark). I have found a couple of trucks here that intrigue me, but have shyed away so far. maybe I will go look at em and get some info on them. One is n 09' and the other is a 11', things specific a guy should look for?

I am with you Jim I refuse to "delete" any emissions devices and throw some programming in it. My nephews and hopefully kids will have enough shit to deal with in life in the future, let alone the environmental problems we have created. I am currently getting 16 average with my 6.0 and 12ish loaded, would like to stay close to that. I really wish I had followed my gut in 06 and just ordered the crewcab dually than. I am leaning more towards finding like an 01, or 02 7.3 and building it into what I am looking for. However I need something that my wife can take with the horse trailer for the weekend without me and I dont have to worry about it. Thanks for the thoughts keep em coming. . . .

Well I have outgrown my 06' F-250 ext. cab, and looking to move into an F-350 drw or F-450 crewcab. I have been shopping now for about a year and been focusing on 00' to 07' trucks. However am having no luck finding what I want that doesnt already have 200,000 plus miles on it. I have been toying with several ideas and looking for some opinions from guys in the trenches working on this newer stuff. I really like the new 11' and up body style, however I am not excited about the hefty price tag. Or the emmissions equipment on them, worried about very large bills for parts and what not once off warranty. . . I have also been considering widening my search into the 6.4 model years, my issue there is once again aftertreatment issues and fuel mileage.I have no experience with the pickup models, but i recall the service trucks we had at my old job(f-550 with cranes and what not) was terrible in the fuel mileage area single digits. Looking for opinions on whether you guys would perosnally own the newer stuff or stay away from it and stick with the older stuff, as well as common things to look for if purchasing one of these trucks. sorry for the long post, but thanks for the input guys.

I have seen two housings crack like this, in that spot. Both were F-550 service trucks with 6 spd manual trans. They had hydraulic drive air compressor and cranes on them. They would seep oil when the truck was running and hot.

This story does not have to do with 4x4 but does relate to your tire size issue. I had a W900 kenworth come in, the customer wanted me to "replace the steering sector, theres one in the cab just put it on". Ok. . . so I put the sector on and bled the systemm. Took it for a test drive and on the highway, I hit a bump and it about ripped the steering wheel out of my hands. Called the customer and he stated "damn it, I was hoping that would fix that problem" Talked to him further and the alignment shop had been dealing with this issue on this truck for months over 4 visits. They put new king pins, tir-rod ends, steering shaft, springs and bushings in it, than put a whole new axle assembly in it, and realigned it 3 times, and just couldnt get it to go away. I asked him what happened just before it started, "well I had new tires put on all the way around" I checked the tires and found it had two different size steer tires on it, we are talking way different size tires. Needless to say he was unhappy with the so called alignment/tire shop

I got this letter for my truck as well and I too will be requesting exclusion from the suit. My truck is now 7 years old and I had 1 egr valve and a turbo pedestal replaced under warranty and nothing since. Granted I only have 70,000 mi on my rig, but it has been a good truck. I am firm believer that meticulous maintenance and reasonable expectations will result in a 6.0 not having too many issues. If you want Aaron I will try to get a copy of the letter I received on here so all can read it. . . .

My truck still has the old rattle cal in it. The cylinder contribution test with ids is that a comparative graph with all cylnders or screen with each cylinder and a +/- value next to it(similar to per dels on a 7.3)? I have not used an ids, since I dont have one. So I am trying to see if the tool I have access to has a similar test. Maybe the best option will be to take it in, and have them diagnose it, replace the offending injector, and update cals. I really would prefer to diag and fix myself but with this type of issue may not be possible. I work mostly on 7.3s or 6.0s for head gaskets, egr cooler work. I have turned down 6.0 driveability stuff because I dont have ids so a little green with finding the cause on this issue. thanks for the help

My 2006 F-250 has a cold miss/stiction on a cylinder or two I believe. If it is plugged in it is barely noticable, but if it cold soaks for 4-8 hours without it just hammers for about 10-20 seconds before it clears up. I am running a mobil 5-40 synthetic oil changed every 4-5000 miles. I have checked my glow plug system and all is well there. It is a fuel knock sound, once it runs about 10-20 seconds it goes away and is fine the rest of the time. I am wondering what type of testing you use to find these type of issues?

Well I actually got to see a launch tool and will NOT be purchasing one. The screen is rediculously small and the tool is HUGE, with a giant milk crate to carry all the adpaters and cables in. I did a bunch of reading on it and found like you guys said if it is import it will work well but domestic not so much. I am totally with you Jim on buying the best tool one time. My only issue is that I currently work on vehicles for friends and family, and not all are Ford product. I would love to own an IDS, however I can not justify the cost of an IDS when it wont work on the other brands I have to service. I have an opportunity to purchase a used Snapon MODIS that would be updated to current for 2500 bucks. What I like about the modis is that it is a scanner but also a 4 channel scope and multimeter. I want to know what kind of injector and cylinder contribution tests it will do with 6.0 and 6.4. The snapon guy was going to look into it so am waiting to hear back, I also want him to let me demo it for a week to make sure it will do what I want and need it to do, will see what he says next week.

Hey guys, lookin for opinions on the launch brand x431 scan tool. I have a buddy lookin for a scan tool, his matco guy told him about this tool and about how it is almost like having each dealer brand tool. They apparently copied the format from the factory tool for each brand in the format for each brand in there tool, and how it has 95% of all the dealer functions in their tool. I have never really heard of this tool before until today. I have been lookin around the web for opinions and info, and have come up a bit empty handed. The web site did not seem to have any real information on it, and they are a china based company. All I could find is that it worked pretty good on european and asian brands but no info really on domestic. Lookin for some experience or opinions from some guys I can trust. thanks guys

There are set of gear in front that run the oil pump, I believe. The rest of the gear train is in the back on the truck engines. I believe in the chrysler version the whole gear train is up front. The crankcase vent is set up with a coalescing filter on the valve cover. there is typically a tube that drains the oil back into the crankcase. Usually the air will empty to atmosphere through the draft tube, but on the isb it vents to the turbo compressor inlet. Sometimes in extreme cold ambient temps the condensation in the tubes can freeze. However you will typically get a high crankcase pressure fault before it blows out a seal. I have not seen any breathers freeze on the b's becuase of the arrangement they use. glad you got it fixed.

I am glad that my shop isnt the only one that does this stupidity. . . . .90% of the RO's I get handed are troubleshot over the phone or counter and I am told what to replace and that will only take about 20 min. EXCUSE ME!!!! why the hell am I even here if you got all the answers?? I had a truck today rolls in at 5:15(my shift is over at 5:30) "you wanna pop a vehicle speed sensor in this, was already in a shop and they told him what it needed and the part number(they sold the customer the wrong sensor too)" I not listening hook up with insite and check pids for vehicle and engine speed. Start the truck and vehicle speed goes to 102 mph, snap the throttle and speed changes. Foreman says see it needs a sensor. I told him it is a wiring or ecm issue not the sensor. He insists,after order the right sensor, I put the sensor in and guess what it does not fix the issue. I locked my toolbox and went home. I guess now that we wasted 1.5, I will t/s the actual problem, likw we should have done from the get go. Will they ever learn??

Is this a rear gear train engine? I have seen quite a few in ups trucks and school buses that leak where the flywheel housing meets the gear housing just below the high pressure fuel pump. This leak is due to terrible machining of the housings. If it is indeed just a rear seal there is a white plastic ring that comes with the seal. One side is for rear gear train engines while the other is for non-rear geartrain engines. Make sure you use the correct spacer becuase it sets the depth differently. If you have an engine serial number we could get more specific repair procedures.

Thanks for the input. There are guillotine style devices out there for only 130-200 bucks but they are massive and not intended for use in every day vehicles, meant more for competition only type vehicles. They appear as though they would allow alot of dirt in, that is if you could get and air filter on them. Thank you for the brand names I will look into them. I am looking for a set up like you described jim that is an automatic type device, not really involving an operator input to shut down. For my pulling truck I need something I can actuate in the cab myself but also to hook to the skid, just in case something would happen that way.

Does anyone have any experiences with these? The purpose of this thread is two fold. I have a buddy going to the oil field with his 550 service truck and doing maintenance work, and some companies require these. So he asked me about them and what to put on. My pulling club wants shut downs installed on all the heavily modified trucks this season. My dilemma comes in that I have never messed with these before, except on heavy equipment and that was a while ago. For my buddy I need something air tight that can be installed and not let in dirt. . .I am also intrested in this as well because I dont want a guillotine style so my truck is sucking in dirt all the time, as well as somewhat limited space under the hood. Looking for some brands of them and what you guys have seen that works and doesnt. thnaks guys

Good to know. It is only winter here from november to april, and NDDOT has chosen to use salt brine to treat our roads. Rust is a killer here. Thanks for the info.

What would make you go with the kia? My mom told me the kia is a bit cheaper and has a longer warranty, she didnt say anything about the edge since she hasnt drove one yet.

My mother is looking at getting a new vehicle, she has narrowed it down to the ford edge and the kia sorrento. She has test drove the kia and compared prices, and warranty's, etc. Has not had time to drive the edge yet. She has asked for an opinion from me of both. I of course am a bit biased to for. However I am a diesel engine 1 ton pick up guy, and therefore not to knowledgeable on the other models. I am looking for opinions, common issues, etc of the edge. Or the kia if you have any experiecse or knowledge of them. Thanks a lot guys.

I too have seen people try to use this test and not let the truck get to operating temp first. Lack of fully understanding the engine systems and how they work or the most likely reason is in too much of a hurry. You gotta love flat rate and how it dictates diagnostics and repairs for some people. I am paid hourly where I am but get and efficiency bonus, However even on my best month have not seen a check. I have just written the whole bonus program off and work as if I am just paid hourly.

In my previous post I explained the bottle test and said to take the guts out of a radiator cap to adapt the radiator to a hose and finally into the jug of water. In thinking of how I worded that, I saw how it could have been interpreted or misinterpreted that is. You want to be sure it will seal to the radiator, so as not to lose "pressure" out the overflow tube on the radiator. If you are losing "pressure" out the overflow tube and all of it is not going to the water jug you may get faulty results in your test. I had a cooling system pressure tester that the pump crapped out in, So i removed the pump from the tool and used that cap set up as my test tool.