dieseldoc

Well guys my wife is considering a newer vehicle. She likes her 08' escape but it is getting up there in miles. She doesnt like the look of the new escapes but she does like the style of the new explorers. We are looking for something with 20,000 miles or so on it. I am looking for opinions on the vehicle as well as years to shy away from or common things to look for before buying one. Thanks for the input fellas.

Well guys I have two sets of superduty balljoints, etc. to do. First thing I am looking for is a part number for the seal installer kit to put the vacuum seals in. Second thing is I am wondering what your preferences are on ball joint presses and adapters, what works and what doesnt, brands that sort of thing. Thanks for the insights. I have always just sent these jobs to the alignment shop because it needs an alignment and what not anyway but my new boss insists we can do it ourselves than take it in for the alignment. Thanks guys

99 f-350. Exhaust back pressure sensor is only used to control the back pressure valve for warm up in cold ambient temps?? Or is it also used as a reference along with map for control of the wastegate? Thanks for the input guys

Its n automatic. So u guys leave the trans in place n just pull the engine? So if i quote 25 hours to r&i n say 5 hours to check out his used engine n transfer egr & oil cooler sounds fair to both of us?

Got a truck that blew n egr cooler, by the time it came to me its got 6 cylinders with little or no compression. Gave customer his options( complete, long block). He decided was to expensive n wants to go with used engine he found. I currently dont have a lift since we do 75% heavy truck work, so its gotta come out without lifting the cab. Wondering what u guys are charging timewise to do this job? Thanks for the input, tips also appreciated

Thanks Brad I wil be calling my service writer in the morning. According to the tsb my truck is a candidate for a harness or actuator. thanks again

Well since I am not a ford dealer technician I am unable to access tsb. Would it be possible for you guys to post the tsb 13-10-07 that was refferenced earlier in the post so I could see what it has to say? I would like to have the facts before I call my dealer tomorrow and tell them they need to fix my truck. A little sad that I have to do the research for them but in there defense their long time diesel tech just retired due to physical problems so I will cut them a bit of slack for now.

Thanks guys i think i will give them the tsb number u guys listed and tell them to try again. I will push them to fix it.

Hey guys my 12' is making this noise, can even hear it when its running. I took it into my dealer and they contacted hotline and ford told them it is normal. How expensive is the actuator? I am not going to listen to my 60,000 dollar truck make this noise. Its a bad deal when you are the lone "ford guy" in dodge country and you stop somewhere and youre truck is groaning at key off. Guys give you a lot of shit for it. I guess I am not a believer in the " its normal" when it did not do it from new. thanks

559 faults suck to troubleshoot because they are very hard to create the conditions they happen and still be able to troubleshoot. I am going to venture a guess at the pressure relief valve in the rail, based on your symptoms. I dont remember for sure off hand on the ISB but on the ISX this valve is a two stage valve that once tripped will seat to a first stage after the pressure drops which will let the engine run but not at full power, it than will seat fully once the fuel pressure is lost at key off. It will be stated for sure how this valve works in the theory of operation section of the service manual, or possibly in the description of the system when you search the fault code in quickserve online. I have found though on the older common rail engines once this valve is unseated a couple times it is much more susceptible to opening agian. Do you guys use EDS(expert diagnostic system) for troubleshooting or are you lucky enough to not have to deal with this stupid system? Another common place we see high pressure leaks is the connector tube nuts. The high pressure connector retaining nuts have a tendency of loosening up with heat cycles or technicians not installing/torquing them correctly during service. I had an ISL in a truck one time that the only time I could get it to act up was flaming hot after 20 minutes on the chassis dyno and it turned out to be a loose high pressure connector nut, it barely moved when I put the torque wrench on it.

I cringe every single time I start my 6.7 and it goes to high idle right away. I really wish ford would change this part of the calibraitons, give it two minutes like the old trucks to get oil moving through out the entire engine. My wifes 08 escape does the same thing though, makes you wonder what the reasoning they have for that. . . . . . .

We'll my buddy's truck dropped a valve, n it is n 11 model year I believe. They have another truck with spun bearings. I guess the dealer also has two others with spun bearings. I'm a lil nervous about owning one. All a guy can do is the maintenance n use good fuel n fluids I suppose.

Thank you sir. Is our first one, not to sure I am ready for this expedition. But everyone says you never are, so we will just take it day by day

I have always wanted to do this with a control and one of each additive on the market and see what actually happens and how they actually work. However I am married and my wife does not feel it is a wise use of freezer space. However this time of year in north dakota outside is the best freezer out there. Todays high temp was -4 F. Perhaps I will have to give this a try as I will be stuck at home next week, to help my wife recover and take care of our new baby.

Anybody heard of or found the fuel additive being used causing the major failure of a 6.7? I have a friend who works for a large fleet and they have had 2 trucks with major engine failures in the last couple weeks. Both trucks had low miles on them. They have been using power service fuel additive specifically rescue 911. There dealership has told them that ford says that additive can not be used and that is what is causing the failures. Just curious if any of you guys have come across this situation or information from ford. The additive says it is rated for ulsd use. Sounds odd to me but I can see it being possible I suppose.

Did the low power condition begin with the overhaul? Have the parts installed during the overhaul been verified to be correct, I have on 2 occasions found the wrong parts installed during major engine repairs. I really wish trucks did not have boost gauges. Most drivers dont really understand what boost is or how it is produced. Most see the guage didnt go to 40 this time only 37 so there must be low power. Been on many a wild goose chase because of this. Anyway, another thing to consider is the load or route this truck is taking, has it changed when the power complaint started?

How many miles are on this engine/ injectors? what is your intake restriction at as well as exhaust restriction. How are you loading the engine down, test drive with heavy trailer or dyno? Has it had any recent work done to it( injector replacement, overhead set, etc.) Sorry for all questions and no answers

So. . . . . . . . . . . . winter fronts are reccomended, not reccomended, or we dont know?

Well guys i bought a 6.7. I noticed on test drive it takes a long time to reach operating temp. The ambient was -15 f. Does ford reccomend and offer winter fronts for these trucks during cold ambient temps? I know on my 6.0 i was told they are not approed by ford and therefore not offered by them. And my 6.0 never really had trouble getting to and maintaining temp. Have not picked it up yet, so have not had time to read the books yet. Thanks guys

Hey Bruce, dont know if you already have the information you needed. That is an aftertreatment dosing injector, It mounts in an elbow right off the turbo. The brown material in your photo is the fibrous washer used in mounting the doser to the exhaust elbow, Youre second photo is a very typical look for the doser when removed from the exhaust. This is for an ISX and ISM with 07' emissions and newer. There is a fuel line that hooks to the center of the doser.The larger ports on the side are for coolant. Where the injector mounts to the elbow there is a tin gasket and a fibrous washer in place. It bolts on with two bolt and spacers, it is reccomended to replace the bolts, fibrous washer and gasket every time it is removed for service. I have always replaced the fitting o-rings as well they get very hard since they are bolted to exhaust component. The doser plugs up with carbon on a regular basis, any time we had the turbo off or elbow off we cleaned and flow tested them. The doser is a cause of many aftertreatment troubles. The doser needs to be tested and cleaned as part of troubleshooting doc face plugging faults, regen related faults, and when there is an egr cooler related repair. If the doser is cleaned it is necessary to do an aftertreatment maintenance reset all, and perform a regen using insite. There is a flow test and leakage test in insite to test the doser before and after cleaning. The cleaning procedure is to use carburetor cleaner and a brass brush. The strategy for the doser appears to change with every new ecm calibration release. There is a valve on the left side of the engine that controls fuel supply to the doser. The only real trouble with the doser is that carbon likes to build up on the tip and restrict or block off flow the exhaust stream. Sorry for the late response we are in the middle of harvest here and havent had much time for anything. Any further questions I will do my best to respond back, hopefully done with harvest soon.

well the the guy brought the truck in and I finally had a chance to look at the truck. The added wiring fairy strikes again!! I was gonna start with verifying the fuse that is popping and I find a very frayed end of wire pushed in with the fuse and strands poking out all over. I removed the wire from the fuse and reinstalled it and no more fuse popping. Thanks for the assistance guys, didnt need the schematic for this one but did spend some time refreshing and working with the program so not a complet loss.

Well guys I have one that is causing me a bit of grief. Need some assistance with the schematic more than anything. I have the ford service dvd, but can not find the circuit and fuse number I am having trouble with. Wondering if you guys have a good way of searching for a specific fuse. The truck is a 1997 f-350 crew cab lariat with a 7.3 and 5 spd manual. The truck is popping the # 10 fuse( 20 amp maxi) in the power distribution box under the hood. The fuse is labeled Instrument panel fuses: 15 18 and starter relay coil. The truck will crank and run just fine with a new fuse, after approximatley 5 minutes the fuse blows. At this point the odometer stops working, abs light comes on, only noticeable effect until you shut the truck off and than then it wont crank when you try to restart(obviously because the fuse is partially for the starter relay coil). I guess I am looking for some assistance in in finding the correct part of the schematic I need, and if anybody else has run across something similar before. Thanks guys, I am going to try and find a paper schematic book for reference I have several of these vintage trucks that come to me so would be nice to have.

I have used makita forever and had great luck. I used to beat the crap out of them, dropped em off the top of a combine and they held up great. Batteries lasted a long time. I have replaced my 3/8 impact with a snap-on and it to has held up pretty well, has good power. I think the makita stuff worked just as well and was a much better price. just my two cents

Well guys I know I said I made up my mind a while ago but i guess I didnt. I have found a 12' f-350 crew with a 6.7, that I really like and the "director of finance" at home also likes. It is a used truck with 35,000 mi on it. Seems a bit high in the mileage dept for this new a truck... I have a few questions for you guys that have been working on em a few years now. 1) Do you see alot of aftertreatment problems, such as regen issues or scr troubles? 2) Seeing any pattern failures a guy should look for at certain mileage ranges? 3)How are parts for these things hard to get/rediculously expensive? 4)I know in the beginning you guys were seeing valves failing and taking out engines, is this still an issue or gotten better in the 12 and 13 model years? thanks for the info guys.

Well I suggested the guy take it to the trans shop for further investigation. They determined it was hatched and needed complete rebuild. A week later and $2800 bucks he is back on the road. Thanks for the input guys always appreciated