dieseldoc

Hey guys I got a strange one here I am at a loss with. 98 E-350 with a 7.3 diesel. Came in for a leaking brake line and a service. I replaced all the rear lines and hoses, bled the system. changed the oil and fuel filters, greased her up. Fired it up and everything normal. Took it for a test drive and all was fine. got back and parked by the shop door and could hear an abnormal metal sound. I would describe the sound as when the bendix doesn't release and the starter is spinning with the engine. I shut it off and restarted twice and the noise was still there. I assumed a stuck starter bendix so pulled the inspection cover off and started it back up and the noise is really loud now. checked the starter and it has disengaged and the end of the shaft is not spinning like it is stuck. I pulled the dog house back out thinking when I was crawling around I knocked a rock in an inspection hole but ther is now holes up top. I doublechecked everything I was near with the dog house off and cant see or feel anything abnormal. I felt the transmission and engine and all associated areas and cant feel the noise, if you know what I mean. I have looked around and don't see anything like a cracked flex plate or something like that and it starts just fine. The shift cable feels stiff so I thought maybe it was not completely in or out of gear but no matter where I move the shift lever the noise is the same. I am really at a loss here and not sure where to go next. Has anybody run into something like this before, could a bearing or something be out in the torque converter that is doing this???? I am open to suggestions, thanks guys

It has the vacuumost assist on the rail. We started at the firewall and kept working toward the wheel cylinders. The vacuum unit was replacec a year ago. I know these things are shit out of the box over half the time. ThE customer has parked it for now because he can't see spending what it's going to cost to fix this thing.

Oh it sure is the dreaded hydravac system. 3 hours and a gallon of brake fluid later and all we have is a marginal pedal. It stops fine but takes the old grain truck double pump to feel confident in the pedal. I hate these old trucks. The parts cost three times what the trucks worth and people that use them don't understand it costs money to fix your old busted ass cheap truck! From now on any of these that come in the customer will have to approve the worst case scenario including plenty of time for rusted stuck shit, an if that's to pricey please take your rig elsewhere. I can't afford to lose my ass anymore on these.

As a heavy truck and equipment tech I have not had much need for hydraulic brake tooling. However I have been getting more older n smaller trucks in the shop with hydraulic brakes. I have a Chevy c70 in the shop now that I'm having a hell of a time getting bled out after replacing the rear wheel cylinders. I guess what I'm looking for is recommendations on what you guys have used for pressure bleeders over the years, what system works n what doesnt.

Hey guys I have an 02 550 in with low fuel pressure and no fuel pressure under load. Pulled the tank and it's delaminated n plugged the screens (big surprise, right. Note extreme sarcasm). Wondering if anybody has tried any of the aftermarket plastic tanks out there? Or is the best option a ford tank?

Thanks bruce. Yeah I got a trial of mitchell truck series. The program has lots of information n I'm impressed with it so far but kind of pricey. Anyway the 466 had a lot of trouble with air in the fuel last fall. I explained to the customer that's likely the root cause.... it's gone n he's happy so far. The 444 I replacec the oring with the pan on,put a dab of ultra grey around the nut, looks ugly but it sealed. Apparently that is instructions in a ih kit..?? Bad news is the pan joint is leaking on the right front corner along with the front and rear crank seals. I quoted the guy to pull the engine n reseal both the front n rear structures n the pan. Waiting to hear back.I figured it's the best n quickest way to fix em all. He want to get rid of the truck next year but you can't very well run a truck for a year with just shy of a stream of oil leakin out of it.

How many miles on this truck? Air in the fuel and low fuel pressure will cause trouble like this. Spec now is 80 to 90 psi. I have seen before where air has gotten in the fuel from a failing injector seal caused by improperly torqued bolts. I put a sight glass in the return line n snap the throttle or chain it to the dyno to find this.fuel filter bases crack from time to time, n davco filters are always a pain in the ass.How did the harness under the covers look? I have found before where the harness has rubbed on a rocker or the valve cover base n caused n intermittent short. Also oil in the injector pass thru connector can cause grief. Faults don't always log if the fault is only there a short time. How old are the injectors?

2001

I had a 2001 4300 chassis come in with a DT466 in it. It dropped an injector tip on #2 and damaged the piston. It was like pulling teeth but I finally got them to agree to a set of injectors and putting one cylinder in it. Now that I got approval, all the parts clean and ordered, I realize I don't have any service information available to me. If somebody with access could set me up with some torque specs and the like it would be greatly appreciated. What is the policy on head bolts, replace every time or only if damage or stretching is found? Also if you guys have any of those "definitely look for this, or watch out for that" type of advice, would be great too. I have very little hands on experience with these engines. I also had a smaller chassis come in with massive oil leaks on a 1996 T444E. The biggest leak is the dipstick adapter in the oil pan. I am going to fix this first than hopefully the oil will stay in it long enough to run it a while and find the rest. Is there any common oil leaks or things to look for on these engines in this application? Thanks guys

Well thanks for the input guys. She leased a new 2015 edge SEL with the ecoboost on Saturday. Pretty nice vehicle better power than her 08 escape with a v6, was surprised. She is super happy with it so far. As long as she doesn't go over on the mileage we will be in good shape.

My wife has decided she wants n edge. She found a 2014 limited with the v6 n awd, it has 30,000 miles on it. Things I should look for or stay away from, or should a guy avoid this model all together?? Thanks for the input guys

Excellent thanks Brad. I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something special in the network or some other crazy deal since it was in the harness and close to the data link connector.

If I am looking in the right place this vehicle does not have a wire that color in this location. I am looking in the bundle with all the pto wiring and the 4(red, black, white, blue) upfitter wires above the park brake pedal. The only white/LB wire I can find is taped off in the harness going to the data link connector with a customer access tag on it........... I don't really care if it is not powered in accessory as long as it is keyed power, preferably fused. Thanks for responding so quickly Brad

Hey guys I am putting a business band radio in a 2006 f-350. I am wondering where you guys are hooking into for power and ground. I am not a fan of fuse taps because they ruin the fuse panel. also not a fan of chopping into factory harnesses for such purposes. Input greatly appreciated.

Is there a recommended interval for timing chain replacement, either by ford or your guys experience? My sister has an early 2000s f-150 and she asked me if this needed to be done. As I am not a gasoline guy I did not have an answer for her and thought I would ask the experts. Thanks

2006 F-350 XLT with Manual climate control. It is stuck on high heat all the time unless it is set on max a/c and the water valve shuts. Followed pinpoint test L in the shop manual starting on page 412-00-76. I found in step L4 that my potentiometer tested at 60 ohms in the bottom of the range which is far less than the 150 ohms in the manual however the high side is spot on. Since the part is 20 bucks and it was out of spec I installed a new potentiometer and checked operation, no change. Started the diagnostic over with same reading on new part as old. So I kept troubleshooting as though it was in spec all things checked out. Removed the blend door actuator and the door is not stuck or binding(can move it with one finger back and forth). I went back and read through the normal operation paragraph again and tested circuits it describes, and got expected readings. I at this point assume that there is something failed in the actuator. Took the top cover off the actuator and found nothing burnt or broken inside. I tested voltage at the motor and it varies from 7.4 volts to .6 volts as the temp control is moved back and forth from hot to cold. Until now I have not had the pleasure of working on the hvac part of these vehicles and so needless to say have no experience as to what normal voltages and resistances are on these systems. My question is am I on the right track here and is the blend door actuator a "common" failure item in these vehicles? thanks for the inf guys, much appreciated.

I know this is an old post and the decision has already been made. However, I have worked at a couple ag dealers in the past. We were paid hourly and overtime after 8 hours in a shift. My slowest week was 50 hours in the winter n the busiest was 100 hours in a week in middle of harvest. A dealer has the same shit no matter what the iron does. If u do t mind working nights an weekends as well as all day during the busy 4 months of the year it is pretty good gig. Wage was $25/ hour n good benefits. I worked in ag dept at a cat dealer. I personally did not like Titan machinery when I worked for them. Just my two cents on the matter, good luck with ur choice

Thank you kind sir, much appreciated

Hey guys I'm working on a 06' F-350. Putting ball joints, tie-rods, the works in. I forgot my computer at home, so don't have any of my manuals. If anybody had a few minutes or remembers, the ball joint torque specs and tie rod end torque specs I could sure use em. Thanks guys.

Well guys I need to step back in time here to 1983. A local volunteer fire department came to me over the weekend for a quote. They have a back up tender truck that is a 1983 S1600 with a 6.9 in it. They feel it needs a head gasket because there is coolant dripping out the left side exhaust manifold. I am thinking it may be more than a head gasket( cracked head perhaps). Anyway I am looking for a fair labor time as well as anything I should quote along with this. Thanks for the insights and advice guys.

my complaint was when it was doing a regen every 120-160 miles like the flip of a switch, when it used to regen every 600-800 miles. The truck now has 25000 miles on it and 102 idle hours, I bought the truck with 18,000 miles in december. I admit it has not done much pulling up until last weeken, we had a baby in january and that has put the brakes on going to truck pulls and horse shows this year. They have updated software twice now. I have not hooked up to the truck myself since its under warranty and only have an auto enginuity service tool. I will check it out when I have a chance. Thanks for the link bruce. I am new to the 6.7 world and I am trying to learn what is normal and what is not.

I have put 2000 miles on the truck in the last 2 weeks, been traveling on the road and getting fuel from lots of places. I always try to buy fuel from truck stops because it is usually fresher than smaller stations. While running on the highway at 75-80 mph it has averaged a regen every 350 miles or so. I was pulling a trailer and loaded form 1500 of those miles when we went to the mountains dirtbiking. My def usage has not changed and the tail pipes are clean. I was told there is nothing wrong with it and without a code they can not do anything with it. I am very unfamiliar with the 6.7. I typically work on heavy duty truck systems( cummins in particular) and older 7.3 and 6.0 powerstrokes. I was told to just drive it and don't worry about how often it regens, and that the truck will tell me it needs an oil change. The old timer diesel guy at my preferred dealer has retired, and it shows now. He knew the systems and how they worked, what was out of normal. He just plain fixed the trucks and knew how to write the story to get the job done and get the everybody paid and happy. The new guy apparently is struggling, the engine and systems are complex but he seems quite lost when I talked to him. My gut feeling is that there is a sensor failed in range and it is throwing the calculations for soot load off. Oh well I guess, the joys of new diesels. I would go to the other dealer in my area, but we had a disagreement a couple years ago about my work truck and I am not well received there, also I would not trust them to put air in my tire after the quality of work I have seen come out of there.

2012 F-350 crew cab. Does a lot of highway driving, very little stop and go driving, and very little idling. This is my personal pick-up and here is what I have noticed. When I purchased the pick-up it had 18000 miles on it and it averaged a regen every 600 or so miles and this was during winter(will admit it idled to warm up prolly 10 minutes a day). In the last 2 months(1000 miles) almost like the flip of a switch it has started doing a regen every 150 miles and 10-12 gallons of fuel. This seems to be to frequent to me. Needless to say my oil level is now quite overfull. I took it to my dealer and they ran a manual regen with ids and told me nothing is wrong with the system and flashed the controllers to the latest level. I was skeptical that this did anything but picked it up and gave them the benefit of the doubt. I drove it last week and in 200 miles it did 2 regens one 65 miles after I picked it up and the next after 160 miles. I brought it back for them to look at. They called today and said again the system is working fine we want you to use the ford cetan improver. I told them already use the cetane improver with every tank full and when the message comes up I make sure to keep driving without changing the engine load as best I can until it is complete. I told them that my oil is also very overfull I am guessing from the regen frequency. They said to me that is probably not related, they are going to change the oil for me and I am supposed to drive it for 1000 miles and monitor the oil level. My question to you all is does this seem like frequent regens or normal operation? Also would you have any suggestions for me as to this situation if this is not normal operation? Thanks guys.

Thanks. Well this guy keeps hurting himself and i am done doing work for him. He blew a cooler wrecked the engine. Than insisted on putting a used engine in that now has leaking head gaskets. I put a new coolers in it because the egr was leaking. Flushed the hell out of the cooling system but it appears there is crap in the cooler already. Oil temp was 218 n coolant was 200. I told him not to drive it until its fixed but who knows with this guy

Will high oil temperature cause a derate or warning light to come on? Had a guy bring one to me for diagnostic of head gasket failure. They are leaking but i noticed on the test drive the oil temp kept creeping up, it was at 218 deg f when i got back to shop. Told him he needed head gaskets an oil cooler and probably an egr valve for the fault code. Gave him the est and told what i found. He didnt like the price an left. But got me to thinking about the oil temp an engine protection.