dieseldoc

My assumption would be they are experiencing a power issue or something and figure they have it changed because it's the finest micron filter. At least that's the theory my heavy truck/ equipment customers use. I inform them that is not necessarily a correct practice but hey the customer is alway right.........please note extreme sarcasm.

I know we deal mostly in fords here but I know some of you guys are dual brand dealers and may be able to help. I have a 2008 dodge ram 3500 dually with a 6.7 cummins, auto trans, 4wd. The truck came in with the ABS/brake light and check engine light on. There was a U0121 fault for no comm with abs module and P0501 for vehicle speed sensor 1 performance. Also had a fault for the exhaust pressure sensor but I was able to repair that with a new sensor and pig tail. I tested the vehicle speed sensor in the rear diff and it was open. Installed a new sensor and test drove, the speedometer/odometer does not work and the lights are still on as well as the check engine light. I cleared all faults before road test. After road test still getting the u0121 and P0501 faults. I started to poke around to check the fuses and found the abs module unplugged. I plugged it back in and you can hear the pump running all the time even key off. My question is will the communication and speed sensor fault in the PCM keep the check engine light on? Does the ABS module need to be programmed when installed? If the module needs to be programmed than I will likely tell them to take the truck to the dealer at this point instead of spending anymore time on it. If the module does not need programming than where is a good resource for diagnostic routine for these faults and schematics for the truck? I normally would just turn this away but it is a good customer of mine and this is his only dodge and he would prefer to bring it to me.

You could check with your local injection pump shop....... our local pump shop around here deals in turbos as well as the normal pumps and injectors. Worth a shot anyway

I started today with the no start diagnostic sheet on this truck and everything was checking out. I ran a buzz test this am and no buzz just the fault for ecm-idm communication fault. Ran through the pinpoint test for the code and all checked out. I plugged my test idm in. Cleared all fault ran the koeo test and got the p0605 and the ebp circuit fault. Ran buzz test and it passed. Cranked the truck and it started right up and ran with no issue. Plugged the old idm back in and crank no start n all posted faults are back. Ordered n idm will be here tomorrow. And for anybody interested the ford idm is actually $22 cheaper than the alliant power aftermarket.

I have not checked fuel pressure and that yet I only had n hour today to look at it. I will have 2 hours tomorrow to look at it before my appointment for the day shows up. I am in southeast North Dakota. We have salt n corrosion but nothing like you guys on the east coast. Connectors I have looked at are clean n dry so far. Will put more details up or what I find is the fix as it becomes available.

Cranks but will not start. It sees engine speed now with a Ford cam sensor. It will not start so don't know if the cel is on or not. I started a thread in the 7.3 forum on this with more details. So if I try the test pcm I should be able to key on than use my remote start switch on the starter relay n it should fire if the pcm is the issue is what your saying?

Cranks but will not start. It sees engine speed now with a Ford cam sensor. It will not start so don't know if the cel is on or not. I started a thread in the 7.3 forum on this with more details. So if I try the test pcm I should be able to key on than use my remote start switch on the starter relay n it should fire if the pcm is the issue is what your saying?

I am working on a 2000 F-350 7.3 truck with an automatic trans. Customer states it has been intermittently buck/jerking and stalling for several months. Had the trans repaired for other issues. Customer was driving and states the vehicle will just all of a sudden lose power( feels like all of a sudden a heavy trailer was hooked up) than has no throttle response and sometimes comes out of it other times it will stall. He pulls over and cranks it will start right up sometimes not but after it sits a few minutes it will start and go just fine. He assures me there is no chip or programmers in the truck. Last week he was driving down the road and it acted up as mentioned above, he pulled over and restarted it and went 200 feet and it did it again and now is a crank no start. The customer has tried to work on it himself and pulled the pcm out to test for power and ground and has finally given up and hauled it into me this afternoon. I verified powers and grounds to the pcm, ok. disconnected the batteries and installed the pcm and hooked things back up. Hooked up scan tool and powered things up, had lots of faults in memory, I assume from him having the key on with no pcm installed. I cleared all the faults and than went to pid data and checked for rpm and icp/ipr values. I had no cranking speed, he just installed an aftermarket cam sensor. I put a ford sensor in and tested, now have engine rpm. Icp/ipr behave correctly during cranking. cranking speed is good as well. I checked for codes after cranking a total of 30 seconds to verify icp/ipr and engine speed. I had in memory a P0605 and P1668 PCM-IDM communication error and P0470. cleared all faults, disconnected the batteries and turned the headlights on for 10 min, than shut the lights off and hooked up the batteries. Keyed on and ran a KOEO test it produced P0605, P1668, and P0470. I than cranked the engine for 10 seconds and checked codes and a P1670 is now present. That is where I currently am at and heading home for the day. In the morning I plan to verify power and ground to the IDM and PCM again to make damn sure I didn't miss anything there. If that looks good that I plan to try my test PCM and see what happens than. Just curious from your guys experience is there something I am missing or should check first before trying a test module in? I personally have not had to replace a PCM in one of these trucks before, plenty of IDMs but never a PCM. So considering the price of the module and the fact they are a low failure rate item I want to make sure it is an issue before quote one. thanks for your insights and thoughts

One last question for you is if the pcm for the 2000 F 7.3 is from a manual transmission truck and I put it into an automatic equipped truck, it will work just fine for a test the engine should crank and start just fine? I have a truck in the shop with pcm and idm faults I need to try one or both of these on. the testing for the faults is pretty vague as to where they are really taking you, it ultimately result in replacement of the pcm or idm depending on where and when the faults are present. thanks bruce

Thanks Bruce. I googled but sometimes you never know if you can trust the net.....bonjour right.......lol. Thought I'd ask the experts to be sure. Now to verify they work in my personal trucks than I will hopefully have a set of test modules. Thanks for the info

Hey guys I had a guy give me a couple pcms and idms out of some trucks he crushed a few years ago. The trouble is he had no idea what they are out of. I am curious if one of you awesome parts guys could tell me what they are out of by the part number and personality code off the tags. The first PCM is a a part number F6TF-12A650-AXE and the code is MIF4 The second PCM is a part number XC3F-12A650-KG and the code is VXY4 (this one has a remanufactured sticker on it) They are suppose to be out of diesels. My question is can I use these as a test module in any truck( i.e. It's out of a super duty 7.3 it can be used as a "will it start now" test unit. I'm sure it will have weird faults if it is not correct for the configuration, I don't care about that just want em to test and say yes the pcm is the cause of the no start, etc. it will be x amount for a new pcm..... I have a couple idms would like to know the same things about them as well. Judging by the voltage rating on them one is for an obs(94-97) truck and the other is out of some version of super duty. First part number is F6TF-12B599-AA Second part number is XC3F-12B599-AC My assumption is that the AA and AC should match the code on injectors........but would like to know if they will work in any truck for test purposes. My last question concerns 6.0 FICM and PCM/TCM. He has an 05 6.0 auto truck that rolled he is going to haul in for scrap. Can i use thes modules for testers in any 6.0 model year F or E series? I know they will throw software mismatch codes but again just want to use them for we tested the circuits and believe it is the ficm or pcm failed. Plug the tester in to verify than we can sell the new module with confidence. Thank you for the information fellas i appreciate your insights.

I ordered my vcm2 today. I'm wondering what your guys preferred laptop is to use with ids? I know ford sells them as kits with a couple different ones. I use a tough book cf30 for my heavy duty programs and like it, it's a lil clunky but definitely not worried about it. I was going to use a laptop I already have but the screen is fairly small and a real bitch to see outside in the sun. So thinking about shopping around a bit for something else to use just for ids. Thanks for your thoughts guys

I have a norco brand 20 ton air over hydraulic. It's on wheels with a handle and controls out on the handle where you can reach em. It has 3 adapters that are threaded for lots of adjustability. Super nice jack I use it on mostly class 6-8 trucks. I will get you a model number tomorrow.

The egr vp volts bothered me as well. New ones I have installed have been .65 to .85 KOEO. I had a new valve on the shelf so I put it in just to see. Cleared all faults and the KAM. Cycled the key and ran the KOEO,and KOER. Passed both and the egrvp volts was much better at .75. I road tested for 15 miles and all was good. Ran a KOER when I got back and it passed again. Going to let it cold soak tonight and try it again in the morning and see where we are at. I called the customer and told him what I found and the plan for the morning as well as that we need to dig further to fix the root cause because the valve fixed the symptom. He will be shutting down for the year in a month and said he will bring it back than as long as it goes well in the am. I told him it will stick another valve and continue doing this if we don't find the cause of the sticky carbon. He agreed and said it will be coming back in 4-6 weeks when they shut down. Can't force him to let me dig into it more now so I guess I will let it go in the am if it passes road test and tests. I will have ids than and better resources to hopefully completely fix this for him, assuming he brings it back like he says he will.

Got 06 f350 that came in with check engine light on slow to accelerate n smoke than takes off. Pulled memory dtcs of p0401. Koeo no codes koer of p 0299, p1408, p2263. Test drive n vgt% hung at 85% from a stop for about 5 sec with lots of black smoke than vgt% would change n it would take off. Egrv is at 1.14 koeo which is ok but close to not. Seems to operate actual and desired graphs are damn close. Brought in the shop n pulled the valve n it not fully seated but pretty close had little bits of carbon in it. Cleaned up the valve and intake opening. Put it back in n let it sit overnight. Cleared faults this morning n took for a drive. Was fine cold but once it warmed up it is doing the same thing. Ran koer when I got back and it yielded p0404 and p1408. It was here a month ago with the same complaint. Found a big chunk of carbon in the egr valve. Cleaned up as best I could, he wouldn't buy a valve. I told him ok but you will have this problem again. I also cleaned the ebp sensor and tube as well as IAT2 and the maf( aftermarket filter not installed correctly). The carbon in the intake is not super dry (is slightly tacky)but not obviously wet. There's some white residue on the #8 exh man port n up pipe joint of the manifold. Hold 18 psi overnight and vacuum for n hour. Possible head or gasket issue causing the moisture in exhaust n gumming up the turbo? Does not overpressurize the system on hard road test last time stuck around 8-10psi. My thoughts on this is that the turbo is sticking since the vgt% seems to change just as the engine starts to accelerate and come out of it. Sound like I'm on the right track? What makes me second guess this is that works cold and acts up as it warms up. Typically when I see turbo issues on the bigger engines it's the opposite, sticky cold n works better warmed up. Only notice the issue when accelerating from a stop. I'm working on getting ids right now but they need this truck before it will get here. So I can't run the egr and air system test. Be super nice right st the moment but such is life. Thanks for any input guys. Going to run through the tests for those codes now and see if I can find something.

My ford sales rep was out yesterday and I talked to him about ids. He quoted me $1260..... this seems like a good price to me. No computer, that's the vcm, software, and first year subscription I assume. He is getting more info n going to call me back on what exactly the 1260 includes along with the yearly subscription cost and what that give me access to. This sound like a good route to go to you guys, anything else you reccomend I get with it right away?? Thanks for the input guys.

Well I am tired of fighting with aftermarket tools that give false information or just enough to be dangerous. I am going to buy IDS. Have been doing some internet browsing and found the VCM for around 1500. My question is when you buy a vcm does it come with the ids software or is that a separate part number you need to order on top of the vcm? Has anybody dealt with dealershipcloseouts.com before? I was going to order from rotunda but than thought I ought to shop a bit and see if there is a better price for the same product. I don't really care if it is new or used from a cloing dealer as long as it works. the website above offer dealer tools and equipmenmt including ids, tech 2, drb3 and the like. I don't really need the module programming and calibration files. Programming would be nice if a pcm replacement was needed but I really want the tool so I can accurately diagnose 6.0 trucks, and maybe venture into 6.4's if the come around. I have turned down a few 6.4 projects for the reason of not having ids. Im at the point of not doing anything 6.0 or newer because the aftermarket stuff is just missing the critical tests. twice now I have used my solus and it flags a failed injector that is not the failed injector, it says 1 is the low contributor when in fact it is 3. Im over it, the wasted time and lost money I could have bought 2 ids's probably by now. thanks for the advice and opinions.

What torque did you retorque the heads to? I believe the wsm has a torque turn procedure for them.......

It's been a slow no big deal thing until last week. Now it's filled the valley n leaving a puddle on the garage floor...... What's a fair time for this job? Any required tools to do tips? I have the ford service information on DVDs. so no problem there.

Hey guys I got one of the above with a bunch of oil in the valley. Looks sort of like the head gasket is about the only place it could be coming from......or is there a secret can't see it type if plug or fitting somewhere that does this? Never been into these before so looking for a little advice here. If this is the case what kind of time are you guys charging for this job, tips, any special tools required? I would turn this away but it's a good friend of mine, one of those after hours help a friend type jobs. But if it's a major pain in the ass, need a huge amount of expensive tools type of deal I will advise he take in somewhere. Thanks for the input guys.

Ok. Thanks brad that was the answer I was looking for "will it roll on 18 wheeler or explode in the driveway". I appreciate everyone's input and the link to the tsb.

So is this an issue that needs to be repaired right away to prevent other problems?? Or is this a noise that is there but not detrimental to operation or the transmission? This van is early 99, in fact the build date is 5/98. I do not have a breakout box available to ground the tcc pin but the noise does get less as you drive it away from a stop but does not completely go away on the short drive around the lot here anyway.

Sure sounds like classic LB7 Injectors worn out to me as well. Like they said above check your balance rates and they will likely tell the story. A snapon solus is capable of reading balance rates if you know anybody with one I believe my autoenginuity can as well but don't quote me there its been a long time since I have had a duramax in my shop. Don't screw around with only a few injectors it needs a set or it will only be back in the not so distant future. Everyone I have talked to about this issue including my local pump and injector guys say not to drive it and definitely don't pull anything until it is fixed or it will take the cylinders with it. They tell me they have seen burnt pistons and scored cylinders from driving or pulling with this condition for too long. No personal experience here just going by what they told me. Also don't be surprised if the injector cup pulls out with an injector or two this is also common on these engines, try to pull the injector as straight out of the bore as possible. According my local fuel shop this is a leading cause to the cups coming with the injector, they make a tool to pull them so it comes straight out but even than some times the cup still comes with. Overall the job is not the worst on the planet.

Do you guys happen to have a tsb number or the tsb available? I would like to read about this. It doesn't go away when you accelerate away but it does sound like it gets less as you accelerate away from a stop. Is it something he needs to do right away or it just makes this noise now kind of deal? He is on a super tight budget and I know he is going to ask me. Since I have never come across this before I will take any advice you guys have on the subject. Thank you!!!

Ok I will check it out when I can get back to it. It will just all of a sudden start doing this?? This van has been neglected severely. I never noticed the noise when it came in but after the test drive when i parked by the shop to double check for any leaks after the brake lines and what not is when i noticed it