Rickster42

I had a 22k hoist of theirs installed in my bay at the time several years ago. The purchase was though the local snap on field rep. A cpl of things come to mind that i remember about it.. - make sure the concrete thickness is correct under the hoist supports ( shop i was at had to have it redone under the posts for thickness strength.- specs all on their website.) - the 22k although built very sturdy - equalizes each arm separately - sounds good in theory, but i had trouble with that from day 1. Pks sent techs out to look and eventually got it a bit better. - even had the owner out one time. - problem was it was always one side that came down first - had nothing to do with weight as far as i could tell. - No real resolution - i just learned to live with it. I will tell you that you are lowering a heavy vehicle and one side starts to come down first ( even if its only for a split second or so) it is VERY unnerving until you get used to it. lots of times if another tech was beside my hoist when i was first started to lower it - they would get startled by that. - control panel looked like an elevator control panel with lots of circuit board action and safety lights to beat the band lol. - In the end i would have been way happier if both sides were locked together so they have to move together. - That was a few years back so maybe different now - maybe not.

looked at a good buddys ih4200 with a vt365 for a couple of mins today. He has a very well equipped shop - so when he said he had scanner i didn`t think genysis(ugh). Anyways very hard start cold but will start and run for 5mins with a small helping of ether. Stalls after 5min - no restart. genisys shows #1 & #2 low circuit codes in memory. Cleared them and after start/stall reads code 21 & 22 in memory.Any advice/problem areas - or should i just get him to wait so i can scan with service maxx? thanks in advance.

Careful Alex - you are arguing with a woman... there is no win - best you can hope for is a tie...hehe I tried to win with our warranty clerk ONCE... didn`t go well. couple of days later she cuts me off hard, on the way to work in the morning. A couple of hours later at work i kindly ask her why she was driving in the bus diamond lane - during rush hour ( no cars allowed in diamond lane except to turn into next immediate turnoff) she tells me i`m wrong? ok i`ll bite - i print off the local road laws from the highways site (the road is plastered with signs...) and send it to her printer...hehe i`m still wrong? she sends someone outside to take a picture of one of the signs? then and only then does she somewhat begrudingly admit that she didn`t know??? but still mostly my fault.. The worst thing I did was tell her "just because you say the same thing 5x - doesn`t make it the truth". I now have "bad attitude" hehe. My warranty times have been slightly underpaid lately - and i have to go see her often to correct them. Lesson learned - rick don`t take the bait...ever...

I like that idea of the jumper - but your talking buzz testing with the jumper correct? - all injectors buzz nice on no codes other than low cont #5. or are you using the jumper another way? i`d like to hear more about that. thanks

hey guys, have a bit of a head scratcher on my hands. early build 03 - missing on #5 cyl -25% cont. worse when hot. codes for #5 cont/balance. no other codes. exhaust black. usually starts missing after revved up and the let idle in gear. fuel press = 50psi has had 2 injectors in #5 . injector wire harness is new. relative comp shows ok. comp test reaches 400psi. leakdown test - 5% on that cyl. pushrods look good. anyone? TIA

Another anomaly is your no-fault voltage. On F-models the PCED calls for VBAT in a no-fault situation and 0v in a fault situation. I've measured 12.3v KOEO and 13.4V KOER on several F-trucks on both pins 1 and 4, center connector, PCM engine harness with a BOB. I wonder why yours is only 9v without a fault. I'd suggest you check this on another similar E-van if you have one handy, but I have a hard time believing E-vans would be different from F models in this area. Cutting that wire and overlaying the harness seems like a good idea, or maybe de-pinning the PCM connector and checking the voltage at the PCM pin with the wire unhooked.[/b] - yes i wondered about the 9v also, however I measure 12v at the I line at the alt pin when disconnected at alt koeo or koer. as soon as I reconnect the upper alt connector koer (when the fault is there - it is drawn down to 1.5v and bat light comes on.This amb has had 3 motorcraft upper alts in a very short time trying to correct for bat light issue. It appears to be a fairly simple upper alt internal problem - but 3 alts? maybe i need to go new alt?

I have an 04 ambulance with an int battery light on in dash. it has had a myriad of parts - including both alts and a pcm. it does code p0620 - generator 1 control circuit. p0620 always leads to gen1 replace...hehe - i can monitor gen1 I circuit at pcm. when concern occurs I circuit drops from 9v to 1.5v and upper alt stops charging and bat light comes on. Lower alt I circuit at pcm always reads 9v except when glow plugs are on cold start (normal) - I have volt drop tested upper alt case to ground - .01v - upper alt bat term - to battery pos - 1.2v - trace that to battery isolator(diode type) but tested a diff 04 my amb with no concerns and it had the same drop on isolator. - if i rev the engine bat light will go out but comes back on at idle. - the strangest deal is that when bat light is on - if i activate any switch on the doghouse(rear heat/cot lights...ect) the bat light will instantly go out..wtf? - i gotta be missing something simple.... any ideas most welcome...

Unplug the ebp sensor when it is a no start - do you get the wait to start light back? They used to short to vref and cause no start.

What would happen in your shop if your ERO stopped working and you had to go to old school(hard copy R/O`s?). - I think the responses would tell alot about the shop and the working environment there... - Ok just cause ya asked...i`ll go first. - Day 1: general confusion, and a bit of a cluster fuck at the parts counter,as you would have to order parts in person(bad) - Day 2: Tower operator gets heat from above, work starts moving along better. - Day 3: More confusion - but this time it`s about who has what job and if it`s a gravy job.Can`t look it up ERO not workin...hehe - Day 4: 3 or 4 guys are walking around the shop in a comatose like state - caused by ERO addiction withdrawal.They can no longer scan every vehicle tag in the shop to see what every other tech is working on to feed the rumour mill.They would have to see the 1 tower operator and he isn`t playing... - Day 5: Shop production goes up, and the long road to every one just worrying about there own job in front of them begins.. All in jest of course, but frick there are some co-workers out there who just ooze misery from every pore in their body, it`s like an aura around them. Just can`t be happy... sad.

I would just unplug the epr solenoid and r/test it cold and see quickly if I was chasing my tail or not.. I`m a bit surprised that it doesn`t have cold start issues with that many glow plugs out - but that may be a good thing as far as base engine goes... Try buzz test cold - see if any sound different. check mfdes cold idling. Open the fuel drain when idling cold - does it run better? = bad injector/s Run a cyl cont test cold ( with a resistor in the eot connector to fool pcm so that it will run a cont test cold)I will have to measure my resistor cause I forget values.. As you can see I`m thinking fuel/injectors, but it`s early yet. Bruce has alot of great tips on these, perhaps he will chime in...

Jeff, does baro & ebp match koeo? Does the ebp go up on accell? You said the epr linkage moves on koer test right? If those things are ok I would forget about the p0476. Saw it many times and mostly led to nothing... The p0478 could be nothing also, as key may have been cycled with ebp disconnected as parts have been replaced recently(hard to say yet..) Eot low? below certain temp(I forget now what it is but it is quite warm..) that epr comes on alot under low power cruise. Fixed quite a few with a thermostat. Smoke bothers me though...

Dwayne, I had the exact same argument on protech a couple of years ago. I`ve seen no failures after o/haul with 75w140 either, and my main point was if Ford specs that oil for that diff, and I install something else and have a problem... I would be standing beside myself in blame... I took quite a bit of heat for it and had alot of fun responding to the pro 80/90w crowd.

Steve, this vehicle did not have inferred ebp calibration. If it did the ebp connector could have detached itself all it wanted too with no driveability concerns. -I have never seen a cold side cac tube ruptured this badly - it is of course split in the bellows area of the pipe - but it is no pinhole- about 50% around the circ of the cac hose. -Never had a turbo go boom that loud while driving before either. Thats all I can say for facts - but I think clearly this thing had several underlying problems that combined into the perfect storm just when this visiting owner visited my shop for the low power concern( vehicle presented with split cac hose originally). I do wonder though if one of the other idlers and not the one directly in front of the ebp sensor, had been vibrating, if it would have still affected the ebp? I have my doubts... never did squat to icp voltage readings - they were clean - icp sensor works on same principle as ebp. Mind you in hindsight, the ebp voltage pid looked clean too, up until it would push the connector off and flatline 0v. Perhaps I should have scoped the signal for a much better look... - Ah well, I do have the causal idler brg, and it will find a good spot on my bar collection of weird mechanical horror stories. It makes for good conversation over a few beers, but mostly I use them to remind myself how I could have done better in a particular situation and helps me alot in future situations..

I can see your prospective being a shop foreman... agreed. Ok there was actually 2 things still wrong with this truck after cac tube rupture an turbo explosion. 1 - l/h turbo inlet y pipe had been changed a while ago somewhere and must of leaked so they stuffed another gasket/s onto where the r/h and l/h turbo y pipes bolt together.Trouble is the steel gasket/s were out of place blocking a lot of the y pipe.This fixed my wild ebp readings.whooo hooo road test time, 5 kms into r/test it pushes ebp connector off of ebp sensor again. - Ok this is whacked. I`m looking around cause this has gotta be an episode on punked... 2- Now I have the engine idling in my bay and I touch the ebp sensor for some reason or other with engine running and thought I got zapped... Now I`m real interested so I get the shop foreman to touch it too(the ebp sensor boys...) he says not shock but vibration? Ok i`ll touch it again now that it is safe..hehe Shit he`s right it is vibrating like mad. Shop foreman whips out his stethoscope and starts probing - says the idler pulley right in front of the ebp is causing vibration, and he is very good with a stethoscope. Ok now knowing how an ebp sensor works, I`m starting to get excited, so loosen the serp belt and spin the idler pulley - feel some roughness.. Replaced the idler pulley and r/tested for 50kms and it is perfect... Truck has over 1500kms since and is fine. My theory is that the vibe was affecting the sensor in just the right way(variable capacitance sensor) and would push the sensor connector straight up with enough force to break the connector lock every time after 5-10kms of driving.. Sounds wild I know, but I know that fixed it...holy shit. I call it my 6/49 job(powerball for you U.S. guys) cause I would probably have the same odds of winning one than ever seeing this wild ass shit again...

James, I was giving a pretty quick overview of the concern, but trust me, I am quite thorough in my testing. I would not waste any member of this sites time by not crossing my t`s and dotting my i`s before posting.I rarely ask for help so maybe it`s me, but I did feel your reply was condescending to me in a couple of ways... Perhaps you had a bad day also? Anyways truck is fixed and that's what matters in the end... Regards

Another marriage just happened, along with your sister's... YOURS. To this truck! If I fix it quick I may get an annulment? Visiting owner/trailer in lot/hotel(not a holiday inn express either..) Yep it`s one of those.. But at any rate, what kinda pressure do you get if you knock the feed pipes off the turbo? You said you ran it with the turbo off, I'd be interested to yank the feed pipes off and see if there's anything in them. I dropped the l/h ex manifold off to check for restrictions, all clear on l/h side & l/h up pipe. When I run it with turbo off, there doesn`t appear to be any noticeable diff in exhaust between sides, although I`d like to test that better... and ebp pressure on my gauge drops right off. Only thing I can think of is r/h up pipe restriction, as ebp port is in l/h manifold and goes to 0 when turbo removed. I hate friggen y pipes... Sounds like you got a stumper on your hands. Keep us in the updates!

The 0v happens when the ebp connector is pushed out of the ebp sensor.It will actually break the lock/latch on the connector. did that twice to me on r/tests. Thats why I checked backpress with a manual gauge in the ebp port. I think there is so much press there it is possibly seeping through the sensor( like oil coming through an eary build icp)? Yep that sounds whacked, I know, but what else could do it? Lotsa slack in harness.Those connectors latch down pretty hard and are disconnected after 10 mins driving hard. I`ve tried 2 new connectors and 2 different ebp sensors. looking up oasis history - this thing has had 4 connectors & ebp sensors in the last few months at other dealers.

ok, get this 04 F350 in a few days ago - noisy and no power. - cold side plastic cac tube ruptures wide open, slap a new one on, and take it for a roadtest to check for overboost. - 100ft from shop I hammer the go pedal and BOOM... ah shit musta blew another cac hose.. - back inside,no cac hoses off. oops lets check turbo - no spin. remove turbo - shaft is snapped and turbine wheel destroyed, but still inside turbo.( man that turbo blew up hard, just like a cac hose coming off x 2 loud!) - fresh turbo - r/test time - surging like a dog - p0472 - ebpv = 0V. - wiggling ebp connector and voltage spikes up and down. - ok new connector & ebp installed. - fun begins 10mins into r/test- turbo surging again - ebpv = 0v - lift the hood and ebp connector is off ebp sensor and broken the lock tab? - screw a manual gauge into ebp port and rev to 3500 in park 70 plus psi? - this thing will push off the ebp connector after 10mins of driving! - dropped cat - no joy. dropped downpipe - no joy. - removed turbo and run engine w/ oil supply blocked off.Seems to have no restrictions in y pipes or manifolds if I try and compare sides. - I`m looking close at this reman turbo and while I haven`t taken it apart, I can see the vanes moving nicely with the magnet test on the bench? - this thing does not have a low power concern when I roadtest it.. - sisters wedding on the weekend and a concert = me drinking enough to kill a small dog, but come on man,this is ridiculous...

do you have one of these? http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=power&Group_ID=2423&store=snapon-store Get the 3/8" one. Use it with your 40torx(or 45 if its that bad), and a 3/4" wrench. Hit it with the air hammer while turning the 3/4 hex on the air hammer tool. Once you use it, you will love it for those nasty bolts that love to strip/break...

you take the rad out? It can stay in. It clears no problem.

dwayne, x10 in the bay next to me. I have posted about it before... Parts tossed at a dizzying rate.. Hotline/inford/reading MY r.o. repair stories/internet searches on every driveability r.o. He may as well be working on a friggin nuclear reactor for all he knows about diesels.(yes he did the courses...) Same thing, numbers are good... Discussed several times with sm = no results... BUT... we have slowed considerably and I now find myself with no jobs available fairly often, while someone else has a stack... I looked at my last pays booked hours, and said to myself that it ain`t happening again. Well yesterday was pay cutoff, and they have not given me my hours yet.... Went to the office,took all my holiday pay today, in lieu of holidays in case they try to mess with that(ya never know..). I see a change in my near future...

I looked into it a few years back. What happened in my case,(and I believe it is very common)was that a headhunter contacted me directly as soon as I posted a resume on needtechs. He hooked me up with a Ford dealer in Ft. Collins CO. We talked, he promised, I listened. I said show me your serious... Flew me into Denver, picked me up at airport(hottee driver too boot) and took me to Ft. Collins and showed me the whole deal.Talked to 3 or 4 techs there also(service managers can be just a wee tad deceptive at times..no?) Put me in a car, wined and dined me all weekend/nice hotel the works. I was happy with it. We came to terms. The main thing I asked for and stressed this heavily, was that I wanted them to do all the immigration paperwork and the costs associated with that. They were very happy and said no prob at all...hehe In the end they could not get it done as they had seriously underrated the immigration process. Kinda strung me along for 4 months with immigration stories. I have no record and advised them that I do have family living in the U.S. and I felt that was the better way to get it done.. In hindsight I believe it may have been possible to do with all their ducks in a row, but what it boils down to is this: I was coming into an "at will" employment state(Colorado) for this dealer.Which means they can fire a person pretty much at any time.Under immigration law, my sponsor (dealer) would not have been able to fire me if they wanted to. Basically i would be unfireable(is that a word?) to them, but free to leave and seek other employment,the day after I arrived if I chose to... Ahh well I ate some fine dinners, did a bit of skiing, drove the rental car high into the mountains to see if i`d get dizzy(no bull..) and saw alot, and I mean alot of some fine skanky college girls. All in all a decent weekend as I recall.

yep, seen it 3 or 4 times. probably been broken since the first few times the engine turned over,as the ones I did with real low mileage had impact damage right near the tip of the jet,like it was bent installing the rod, and the bottom of the piston skirt hit it.Real hard to say though, because as soon as they get a few miles on the engine they take quite a few hits floating around in the pan...

dwayne,the same type thing happened to me. Shop was slow but diesel was always busy for me.People start to get hungry,and think "hey that looks easy!" and have a go at some diesel. It almost always goes something like this: step #1 - pull code step #2 - install part in code description on ids(no need to read entire ids screen, just skim to first part that says what part "may" be involved.) Step #3 - not fixed. try another part from that system. step #4 - still not fixed. uh-oh... this is not good, starting to loose time... step #5 - load parts cannon step #6 - once parts cannon loaded with as many parts as it can hold, aim squarely at problem truck and .....FIRE... step #7 - hope like hell one part sticks and fixes truck... step #8 - ask shop foreman if he can discreetly discuss problem with me so as not to have to look like tech is asking for help from me.(cause i`ll ask the tough questions) step #9 - truck gets parked in my bay ( sometimes ,not always see step #7) and gets fixed. step #10 - I`m an asshole (never too my face though..hehe) and while the cynic in me is provided with some entertainment in these situations, the reality is that now the diesel work has slowed also and now I am competing for DIESEL work! I never though diesel would slow down and I hope it doesn`t at your shop either dwayne..

The only time I tried doing that was a few years back. Pulled the egr valve and cranked it over... oops no compression. Just my friggin luck. That carbon went straight under the valves like steel to a magnet... Never tried it again - I just use a vacuum now. Other details are fuzzy, but I do remember it was a Friday afternoon waiter. S/A almost started to cry when informed of bad news. 5th wheeler waiting outside fully loaded with the prerequisite amount of kids in it...hehe Seem to remember some crying as I went home for the weekend.