Rickster42

Got one in the drivethru right now... 06 F350 massive tires/dual exhaust/intake/the works. No heat at idle...hehe. NO SIR I DON`T HAVE A CHIP/PROGRAMMER! Ok - why where the codes cleared 14.99km ago? UH..UH.. oh yea, I had a program for better fuel mileage.... No sir the factory program is the economy program...hehe Better yet he bought the truck in the USA to save a few bux.. Truck is still in the drivethru and I plan to have way more fun with this after lunch...

The last 3 or 4 times I had problems with comb gases on a bank,I never saw any obvious signs on the injectors. I would power balance to see which bank was the problem. Quite a few times on a cold start, there will be one inj misfiring, then quickly followed by the rest of that bank.The one misfiring first if you can catch it is the root problem. I then usually take the comp tester adapter and apply shop air to each cyl on that bank and look for bubbles in ff or air in balloon. That works real good. But it`s only effective if the vehicle hasn`t run very long or the other 3 on that bank are already dead(they just don`t know it yet...)

anyone happen to have the part # for the Ford winter front?TIA

your welcome. Glad I could help.You also helped me by trying it with IDS and reporting that IDS will do it...

Ok I haven`t tried it with IDS yet,and i`m not sure that it is still supported in IDS, but here is how it worked when I did them with WDS. 1- check to make sure dlc has 12v at pin #?(I forget now)quickest way is to make sure cig lighter works as it shares power fuse w/dlc. 2- hook up to dlc and let it try and communicate w/pcm it will fail and then ask you to if you wish to pick from a list. Pick "other" 3- It will then bring you to a screen to enter calibration or tear tag. Enter ALF4 in tear tag ( that is a 1995 manual trans tear tag code, which should be what you have as in late 94MY only manual trans were behind a 7.3) 4- IF it lets you in, then pick pcm programming and let it do its thing. After done the dlc will be active and pids available. **this will work with a wds, but I have some doubts if the IDS will do it,but worth a shot. They run ALOT better after doing reprogram, cust will notice more power right away...

take a real close look at what the ebp sensor VOLTAGE pid looks like when this is going on. I had one do the same thing with a bad ebp sensor. hth

I took a look at it this afternoon and it looks like it worked? I still have 06e17 pids, like vgt_LE and vgt_CNC but those pids appear dead. It doesn`t try and learn the vgt even after a KAM reset, Vgt just stays where it should at idle. Crossing my fingers...

yes the fuel cooler clears the steering shaft by at least 1/4"(and that is nearly a football field of clearance on these things...)

Anyone been successful in loading a previous calibration back into a pcm? I have an 06e17 that was programmed(heavy mods/retail) that I would like to reprogram to a previous program so the vgt doesn`t go crazy trying to learn what it can`t... I had an 03 that had what i wanted, tried pmi the pcm, then hooked up to this truck. It did the flash, but it still has 06e17 calibration in it. Any one been successful at this?TIA

thanks guys, looks like it was my fault for not getting an additional line written on the ro. Won`t happen again...

Ok, this was a job I did the other day.A early 04 6.0 comes in runs rough(idle). P2285 - check icp sensor & connector - icp leaking and icp pid .32v koeo. Replaced icp & connector. R/tested - wicked turbo surge on decel. Did TSB 07-16-01 for turbo clean - cleaned turbo and retested and was fine. My time on the repair was 4.8 the turbo tsb pays 6.4hr. How would you have flagged this repair in your shop? TIA

Did you remove the rail dummy plug and look at its lower o ring? Not the one that the standpipe feeds, the one towards the front of the engine.If that lower o ring is bad the other bank is usually bad also or very close to leaking(on e-series)hth

pull the ipr out and look at the o rings on the end.They like to fail and let oil by when hot.You can buy them separate from the ipr.hth

Pays 3.7 now to use the new turbo vane tester,remove clean and reinstall turbo ( after 9/03 build date). What makes this tool 2.7hrs faster than a KA turbo test? ( old tsb payed 6.4hr) Ordered my first turbo in while today,guess what? yep B/O..hehe Me thinks Ford is gonna be paying for alot more turbos with this new tsb... Any one using the new tool have any thoughts on this?

Tony, you just described my shop to a T.... If it`s cake it`s up for grabs, warranty shit, or some diag required? save it for Rick.. Best one is diesel PDI`s - apparently anyone in the shop can do that if Rick is busy... We are also an SVT dealer so I see an SVT in the lot a while back and I`m slow so I say hey give me that SVT pdi - nope has to wait for the svt tech on holidays...wtf. Then yesterday the foreman asks me if I would do some tsb for rear axle shaft bolts breaking on a gt40(svt tech away again). Heres what I told him "I really have no interest in tsb shit work on a gt40, I just want to scoop the gravy pdi.Sound familiar?" he just walked away nodding...

I was thinking it would be nice to start the engine for 30secs or so to check for exhaust/oil/fuel leaks after a repair and before you bolt it all back together just to find out it all has to come back apart again... Anyone tried it?

kevin, is this an early build? If it is have you checked the base engine oil pressure @ idle? I`ve seen some early builds that use the rex-roth high press pump blow out the little plug on the l/h side of the pump.Dumps low press oil like crazy and the pump starves at higher demand= low power. The tip off is usually low idle base oil pressure(10psi or thereabouts) and ipr around 30% @ idle.good luck.

well I had 2 body nuts spin on the body that I took off. And let me tell ya, I used hand tools to try and loosen them first... The one under the carpet was no big deal, but the front r/h side one WAS a big deal.I had to cut the bolt off. You cant access the nut straight on from the top,you can only see about 50% of the nut.I finally had to cut a small hole with a holesaw and center the nut and mig it. I could see no other way to do it.What strikes me as a rear future disaster,is that every body mount I removed was FULL of water,this was on a truck with 300kms on it.Its almost like I could hear them starting to rust.... Oh yea, when I was trying to get a body nut, parts had to phone ford as it isn`t listed.Parts hotline told them its only avail with the cab!(a few weeks ago anyways).Cool I said order one,I could use the old one for a treehouse for my kids...hehe Didn`t go over too well, hence the mig weld...

The old parts went back pretty quick, so no pics unfortunately... No slts yet so the job paid MT. I think parts told me around 12k but I wasn`t paying much attention and didn`t look at what pricing he was looking at.. That dpf must be made of solid gold is all I remember thinking when he told me how much it was.. Engineer that came in to look at the truck told me that they are working on a reflash so that if its below -15c (not plugged in) that it will have dead pedal for 30secs to give the turbo a chance to get oil. Sounds to me like there may be more issues than just that with the turbos, but what do I know? it may work like a champ...

Sounds like the one I had(flamethrower).Mine snapped the high pressure turbo shaft in half and pounded oil into the exhaust.After it dumped about 10litres of oil in the exhaust it decided it was time for a regen...hehe(hence the flamethrower).I had to change full exhaust along with turbos(man did it ever burn up the dpf internally).I would check the end play on the high press turbo, you will probably see/feel something very wrong there.Oh,and I learned that what I call a flamethrower an engineer calls a "THERMAL EVENT"...roflmao

ok he sent it to me. Taken at night with a camera phone, pulled over to side of road, so excuse the quality.

I get to change both turbos and the exhaust system on the first truck we sold with the 6.4. Went 350kms total - cust was driving it home from delivery when it got low on power, then real hot, and then flames from the exhaust.Engineer asked me to do a couple of tests and then told me what parts to order. Maybe needs a stove after turbos fixed?? wtf? I kinda chuckled in disbelief about flames shooting out the tailpipes.. that is until he showed me the pictures he took of it!!! Current score = 1 sold/1 broken bad "I may need more 2 post lifts boss,LOTS more..."

I have had 2 that gave cmp/ckp synch error codes. The first one was a wiped crank thrust brg that let the crank walk forward and back causing the codes. The second ( and way harder to find..) was a loose crank trigger wheel on the front of the crank. I would check the rpm pid while running and see if it looks erratic, and see if you can move the crank front to rear.hth

Thanks Keith, it helps me when another tech explains it to me.Sometimes I find it hard to believe the warranty clerk who can be quite difficult to deal with sometimes, and has never wrenched..The stinging of that job time is slowly subsiding...hehe

Hi, looking over my time for a primary alt r&r on an E-series. Clerk pays me 10346A which is 1.1 I look it up and right below operation 10346A it says "do not use with 8620F EXCEPT for 6.0L DIT" 8620F is serp belt replacement.(pays 1.9) Clerk says only applicable if I changed the belt( I use the tensioner arm tip to unload tension on the serp belt and sneak the alt in that way, but it`s not the way the service manual says to do it). So did I screw up by not putting a belt on it for add 1.9 or is it applicable without "changing" the belt only on 6.0L? How would you get paid for the same job?TIA