Alex Bruene

 

Currently booking into Dec 10 - jammed here.

 

Our customers wish we can get them in that soon!  I had a new tech start yesterday, so that's going to take a huge load off... 

His exact words were "do you check brakes, steering components and wheel torque on a PDI?"...  I know we used to check wheel torque on PDIs, but it's been removed from the process...  Steering is just visual and operational, you don't check for loose components...  Brakes are just assumed, seeing that the vehicle is new.

BTW, you'd better not quote me on this... The last thing I need is my gravy train to grind to a halt! 

Leon...  Post your video when it's done...  Maybe you'll convince me...  I have to get out of this bleeding heart Liberal province!

I can disagree with just about everything he said about the value of pollution control systems.  Particualte matter rises in to the sky, then falls back to earth?  I don't care where the PM is, less is better!

 

Just for the record, I have never studded any heads that I have done. The other diesel tech here has, but I have it from a good source at FoMoCo that they looked into the benefits of studs vs bolts and determined that the blocks were not strong enough to take the extra clamping force of the studs without distortion.

 

Old topic, I know...  But I have heard the same thing from a Blue Diamond trainer, an IH FSR and a source at Ford.  I refuse to use studs.

Actually, it's "Thanksgivakah"...

I've had some training with him when he was with Blue Diamond...  Isn't he a member here?

I was resealing a leaking regulator last week...  I always replace the spring too, not just the seal.  I was showing my apprentice the difference.  We measured 55 psi with the old spring, and 70 psi with the blue spring.

I guess this depends on what you're employer is like but, anywhere I have worked, we were never charged for the sticker whether it was needed for our  personal truck or trailer. As long as your truck is in safe condition, which it should be, what is the issue in having the sticker.

We used to attach stickers to new vehicles for no additional charge, then we got audited by MTO...  Somehow, during the audit, they found we were putting stickers on for free.  They asked how we can do a "proper inspection for free"... We stated that they were new vehicles, so inspections weren't being done.  They were not pleased with that answer.  According to them, you must to a complete inspection on every vehicle, whether it has 1 km or 1,000,000 km on it. So, for the past 5 years or so, I've been getting an additional 2 hours per PDI to do a PMCVI. 

Just got off the phone with MTO.9000kg in our circular brown book is the limit for the S license on a safety.ANYTHING over 4500kg in the door sticker needs yellow sticker.

9,000 kg would be an F-550...  As far as door sticker, I do believe it's registered weight, not GVWR for the yellow sticker requirements... You can register your vehicle at a weight below GVWR, but don't get caught above your registered weight if you try that!

By the legislation, your truck with a manufacturers GVWR of 4536kg, requires a yellow sticker.Further compounding this? If you don't have a T license you can't safety it. 

 

You only need a T for above 26,000 pounds... Or something along those lines.  Up to F-550, S license is fine.

It works like this (at least, I think it does)...  If your GVWR is below the cut off weight, you're fine...  Unless you tow a trailer that brings you above the cut off weight.  It does not matter whether you use it or personal or commercial use.  The only exception is if you're going above weight towing a camper/RV of some sort.  We've had quite a few people fined because our sales department didn't want to pay the extra fee for a PMCVI on a new vehicle because the vehicle was not being used "commercially".  Another example, a guy I work with has a single wheel F-350, which is below weight.  He got stopped while towing a 2 place snowmobile trailer.  The weight of the loaded trailer took him over 10,000 pounds, so he got fined for no sticker on the truck AND the trailer.  Don't take a chance.  Get a sticker. 

Jammed beyond jammed...  And, to make matters worse, I'm in Cummins training for 4 days this week.  I'm sure all my gravy will have been mopped up by the light duty shop by the time I get back, leaving me with a few weeks worth of junk... Yay, me!

You guys need cell phone discounts in the US?  You should see how we get jammed here!

 

I'm looking at mine right now, too.  This time, I do have a discrepency in relative compression, which I never had with this vehicle.  So, I've done a manual compression test, and I have 6 cylinders in the 375 psi range, and I have one cylinder at 300 psi, and another one at 290 psi.  I'll give a donut to whoever can guess which 2 cylinders are low...

Did you find what caused the cylinder damage? 

 

I have my apprentice doing the job, so he's just got the cab off.  I suspect it will be the typical bent rod/piston protrusion issue and/or a nice, shiny cylinder wall.  This vehicle has had a few injector issues in the past, so that further solidifies my suspicion.

I like #2 and #8.

 

I will take a honey dip, failing that a sour cream glazed.

All right.  I purchased both of the requested donut flavors... Then, I ate them.  Oops.

I'm looking at mine right now, too.  This time, I do have a discrepency in relative compression, which I never had with this vehicle.  So, I've done a manual compression test, and I have 6 cylinders in the 375 psi range, and I have one cylinder at 300 psi, and another one at 290 psi.  I'll give a donut to whoever can guess which 2 cylinders are low...

I've seen it a few times.  It's always accompanied by a terrible fuel pump noise I find.

 It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it would be getting the tensioners loose or the belts back on. 

When I remove the primary belt, I take a 36" 1/2" drive extenstion and slip it under the belt on the passenger side of the alternator and pry against the valve cover to pull the belt tensioner, then I reach down and lock the tensioner lever.  I use an extension because it has no edge to damage the belt.  When I'm done, I slip the belt back over the alternator and use the same method to release the lever.

I have to say that I find messing with y-pipe bolts to be absolutely aggravating - always have and to the point that it pisses me off. It must be the rust I encounter here in New Jersey. I also find sneaking a wrench under the EGR cooler to be a royal pain in the ass as well. For me, it is just as easy to remove all of the intake manifold bolts and lift it up. You don't remove it or remove the filter housings either. What's the old saying? Six of one, half dozen of the other? 

I fought 2 up pipe bolts for about 3 hours last week to replace the short inlet pipe.  It was the shoulder type bolts (which I absolutely hate, and always replace with the old style)...  I ended up having to torch them off between the manifold and the pipe, then torch off the bolt head, heat the manifold red, and push the bolts up with an air hammer.  No amount of effort or heat allowed me to turn the bolts where they went through the manifold. 

I've seen 3 transfer cases completely destroyed in the past year and a half.  They were all on vehicles that were being driven in 2wd with the front hubs engaged.  The DC joint on the front shaft would fail, then destroy the transfer case from the vibrations. 

^^ you're kidding, right?

Nope.  I've been doing it since the first aluminum pump cover I ever touched back in 2005.  But only on F's.

It helps if you're able to remove at least one of your eye-balls and attach it to a stick. 

I always cut the passenger side heatshield mount off  .  Makes for a way easier removal and installation.  I never touch any of the y-pipe to exhaust manifold bolts.

Our F&I just sold a rust module on a used 2006 Escape that was showing serious signs of rust prior to installation... I wonder how this one will pan out!