Fredsvt

I've had to work on a Mark 7 diesel. Oh, the flashbacks! Rates up there with the Escort diesel.

I just looked at the wiring diagrams for both the GPCM and relay controlled glow plugs, they both seem to use pin 101 off the PCM violet/orange wire for the trigger on the relay and I'm assuming a ground signal to the GPCM to turn on the plugs. If you put the relay in, you can tie into the wastegate solenoid power wire for b + and use the violet/orange wire to trigger the relay on, it should work as normal, cycling the plugs as needed from what I can tell. I'd test and see if that wire is grounded on the California truck for as long, temp dependent, as the regular relay trucks are.

Might be better than Mr Gorilla tape to close the housing.

Have 2 customers (other vehicles) with these, deleted, etc. Done by a local shop, that "specializes" in hot-rodded diesels. Both of course chipped. Both popped. They asked us to look into it, as to why. It didn't take long EGR deletes on these tend to act in a similar way to a 6.0 with a stuck turbo. The EGR system is used as a wastegate to limit boost levels. When it's blocked off, well, something's got to give. Some have head warpage and block flatness/machining issues. We declined the repairs. Unless they wanted to go back to stock. Neither did.

How about a pig sty of a Transit Connect for a blower motor switch, resistor and who knows what else? Console looks as if "what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas", if you know what I mean. Need a damn hazmat suit to work on it. Driver fills entire interior with garbage and schmutz of all kinds. Makes me sick. And, of course, instead of a blower speed switch, we get a recirc button. Something about catalog shows wrong number when looking it up. Wonderful.

Is the head cracked on the opposite side of the port where I see the parting line?

BMW window regulators and motors, less than half the Bavarian Money Waster cost. Put 2 left sides in a 3 series. They lasted 3 days. I've noticed Crapa, oh, excuse me Napa, sells the Dorman shyte with their sticker thrown over, as do many other auto parts stores in our area. One,in particular, an import store locally puts OEM part number stickers for all import makes on Dorman garbage.

wtf is the issue with people stealing seats? Some things just disgust me. and 29k cdn? really? I have a Honda S2000, one of the most popular stolen seat cars. There's been a market since 2000 for seat locks for them. Decent used seats are $1500 a set. New, forget it. Unreal.

Have you found any with cracked left cylinder heads yet? Just had 3 in the past week, all losing coolant with no external leaks. 2 Suburbans with 5.3 and one 08 G cutaway, 6.0, horrible coolant smell out of air filter box on the van. Easy to find if it's been going on for a while, open throttle all the way and look inside the intake, if you see a big puddle of orange about midway down the intake, right where the pcv orifice hose goes, you'll find a nice long crack in the head on the left side. Of course no one wants to spend that kind of money on a truck with 150k plus. So, they top off.

Those two remind me of the days at the limo company. They came in groups. From multiple crispy full burns from idiots backwards jumping old 5.0 grand marq and tc, letting the cables stay on and burning two cars to the ground at once, to cars jumping jersey barriers and landing on cars in oncoming lanes. The most interesting was the GMQ that came in on the flatbed, "fuel leak and smell". I got in the car, looked in the rearview mirror, saw a green thing in the window. A sign post punched through the rear shelf. The entire post went through the bottom of the fuel tank, trunk floor, shelf and stopped just touching the rear window. Eye witnesses had the car TEN feet airborne and it landed on the post, which caused the inertia switch to trigger, and it died rolling about 300' after landing. Driver wanted to drive it back, but it wouldn't start, even after tow driver reset switch for him. They both realized the fuel smell was from the car. The car suffered no suspension or frame damage, a new tank, pump and patching the holes up, and off it went.

I put Redline High Temp ATF in my Lightning's 4R100, much more positive, fast shifts, even with the torque reduction at or over 1/2 throttle.

And, yes, they can actually accelerate faster than 10 mph per half mile. I so wish for an old beater truck with a push bumper to shove those "hypermiler" morons along, move at least at the speed limit. UGH.

It may be worth looking at if the 12v battery can power up the car, and scan it. If it's a higher mileage Prius the ICE may be dead. They have major oil consumption issues over 100k. I've seen 3 that'll go through 5 to 10 quarts in 5000 miles. Those three had between 160 and 240k on them. Still with original HV batteries. Unless you can get it to power up, even if it won't go "ready" it's hard to say. I'd never own one, they are the absolute most miserable vehicles to drive, handle poorly, ride buckboard and with all the ICE/electric drive shifting going on and the awful CVT, I get sea sick.

Not sure if it helps, just had a 2010 E (gas) 181k, that the driver complained of IC and radio going off, for about 2-3 minutes at a time, then back on. If he shut it off, it did restart however. I took a look, and every time the engine was revved over 2500 the cluster shut down as did the radio. Just prior to the shut down, the battery light dimly flashed. Checking charging, 16v at idle, hitting 2500 was just crossing 18v, at 18.5 to 19, cluster shut down. Over 3000 it was well over 22v. New alternator took care of the cluster/radio issue. On your truck, any aftermarket modules added to network. Seen major issues in E mobility vans with wheel chair modules causing no starts, no shift (interlock stuck), and other strange issues. Unplugged the module from DLC jumper they use, problems ceased. Seen many with issues when inside of van is cold.

You probably won't find a properly machined set of new (aka Chinese) drums. I think they go through a ton of dropping and whatnot on the ride over. Machining on hub on a GM is a bear with the trapped outer bearings. And you'll have to pull the snap ring and clean the hubs out completely after machining. BTW, I really, really dislike GM and their trapped hubbed drum setup. Did a Dodge dually, 3 sets (at least they were hub-less). This is nothing new with the bigger rear drums since everything has gone overseas. Can't even get a set of Mexican made drums any more. Of all things, a Honda Accord w/rear drums that were just plain rotted away after 300k and 16 years, 3 sets of Chinese drums all progressively worse. The nasty machining marks and hot spots on new drums after a 3 mile test drive was disappointing to say the least. I demanded Honda's Japanese made drums, all better.

Hey Keith Is your Snappy guy named Ron? I doubt it, but he must be a twin to the prick who we have. He only ever stops if the guy next door needs stuff or owes money for tools. When you go to get stuff warrantied, he either doesn't have it or says he'll get it and never shows up. There's another dealer who stops at a BMW specialty shop not 3/4 of a mile from where I work. The other guy, who stops every week, offers specials, etc, can't go to us because it's not his route. When I've ordered certain things I really wanted from snap-on's website that used to work, I was asked why. I pretty much summed it up like you did. The prick showed up the following Tuesday yelling at me why I'd say stuff like that. Made me wish for a go-pro.

Think 6.0 lifters. They tend to either lose the needles or the roller just doesn't. Then you know what happens. Do you have any AFM engines there yet? All LS series can have piston slap that make a Ford 5.4 seem quiet. They use very, very short skirt pistons.

GM has their issues with the duramax in pickups, I've seen quite a few with the filters sucked all the way into the compressor. Why they used a panel filter, but the old slug 6.5 had the cylindrical filter in a better set up box.

The early TDI engines would soot up the intake so bad, they'd barely idle. The power loss was gradual to a point where it would no longer build boost. Their intakes have barely a 2.5 inch opening, they'd be restricted down to less than 3/4 of an inch. I can imagine that their "defeat" was to basically disable EGR. VW had so many issues with TDI engines, with early stoot cloggers, then the PD engines wiping cams and followers for the injectors due to VW not speccing the correct oil for cars sold in the US, until so many failed it was disgusting.

25% for a certain period of time is usually when they kick codes, I've seen some, have 17% to 20% LT and depending on what the ST does, it'll code. On that motor, how does the plastic snorkel fit on the intake? If the plastic is warped/distorted, the oring inside doesn't seal well, and you have a large after MAF air leak. Also carefully check where the spider's connector is, I've seen some with the oring torn or rolled. These motors also have intake gasket problems that are quite prevalent, coolant many times, but the upper intake gasket can leak quite badly as well as the lower where it meets the valley. How's oil consumption on it? Does this have the original spider with poppets or the update with solenoid injectors? 58 psi is dead minimum with poppets, otherwise it won't start with anything lower. If you go in it, replace the internal fuel pressure regulator before it leaks.

I just looked up the owner's manual for that truck, FE/FG models, is the word oil missing or scraped off? Mitsubullshit's stickers tend to disintegrate very quickly. In their owner's manual it lists all the stickers on the truck, it says to replace the engine oil if it's a quart or more overfull. Usually with them, it's if they're low by a quart or more they need a motor, as the rings have cracked. Very common.

The initial install or "upgrade" of win10 you have to get the first two cumulative updates to stop the huge glitches. There's many shortcuts and tricks to do things when the start menu doesn't work properly or you have issues. Right clicking on the start menu icon will give you a listing of more advanced things to do without having to go looking. Also, HP sucks. Their software for 8600 series printers seem to have an issue with win10 and win8 where the printer is on the network OR plugged in via USB, but, the print spooler and windows shows the printer "offline". Running all kinds of HP's diagnostic software comes up saying the printer's HP software has an issue that can't be fixed. On both my laptop (did it first) and then today with my desktop, it did this. Completely uninstalling the printer from device manager and devices and printers and all HP printer software. Follow this with going back to 'devices and printers' and either plug in the USB cable, or add it via windows. The windows driver allows the printer to function fine.

Another quirk, if you want to call it that with Win10. (also applies to win8 it seems) HP OfficejetPro printers, 8600 series (one an 8600 work and the other an 8630 home). The HP software and win 10 have some kind of glitch where windows shows the printer "offline" when it isn't. I've done this with HP's full feature software, basic software and just HP's plain windows drivers. It is maddening when the damn thing won't print when you NEED it to. I've had to completely uninstall all HP software, reinstall it, then run HP's print and scan doctor software. This usually fixes it, for a while. Then next time, or not, when you boot up the PC, the "offline" crap reappears. I have also noticed that microsoft still hasn't fixed the issues when browsing using Firefox or Waterfox (64bit Firefox), where the start menu and task bar go dead. It's far less frequent, but still damn annoying.

Can someone please explain then: Here in NJ I see vast numbers of Windstars, Freestars, Caravans, Suburbans and other standard passenger vehicles used as S2 plated school buses. I was told years ago by a DOT inspector that all of the above are most definitely illegal for school use, yet they still move school students on a daily basis. Is it a number of passenger requirement or oversight on someone's part?

I bought an Autel TPMS tool, does most all makes, works great on GM, Ford, Honda, etc... Was $150 when I bought it, Free yearly updates via web. It will activate and id all sensors I've run across. A necessity for stupid Chrysler products that need you to manually type in EVERY sensor ID to replace just one. www.autel.us/Products/ts401.htm