jimmy57

My go to now is single strip 48 inch 120V LED shop light. They are $25-ish and they come with chains with the S hooks. I close both S hook ends on chain on light end and close the other S hook on the chain so those stay put. I use the open end of the S hook on chain to attach to holes on under side of hood. I put the end S hook through middle links on the chain to adjust length so the light hugs the hood more out of head bumping area. The lights can hang by grab handles inside vehicle. The only thing that I see as a downside is the cord but dust tape takes care of that

It is odd that I have that same group chat issue but can hear a fork dropped across the restaurant and hear bearing noise and squeaking belts. I worked with young guys that had hearing loss too. They could hear a service advisor writing up a brake job but were deaf for a driveabiity or overnight battery drain customer conversation.

Y78/21V-880 is what it is what is on the notice a customer showed me.

Yes, got a call and was multi-tasking, or so I thought, and typed without noticing the screen change

I am curious what difference has led to Fiat/Stellantis recall on the pumps in the 3/4 ton and up 2019-2020 cummins trucks and the affected year models of 3.0 V6. Anyone in multi-brand shops with any ideas on this?

Are the injectors re-used and in the same holes so the quantity codes are correct? I am always irritable as hell when I work on LMLs. A little less so for the other versions but still angry. From too little engine bay space to things that don't have to be stacked, being stacked in the way to fan stator in the way of alt. bolts when it just didn't have to be that way. This is a far from complete list. PStroke 6.7 is certainly not without some offenses but I don't find many that seem like purposeful abuse like on Dmax.

In my 45 years fussing with broken cars it has continually amazed me at how so few people know what MPG their car is really getting. Overwhelmingly the answer to MPG being bad is "I was able to get to/from work for $45 all week and now it is $60. Some times this is after fuel jumped $1 or more recently or the road they use is narrowed to fewer lanes due to construction and time to travel it has increased. I also have some closer friends that I know to faithfully use remote start and they complain that their 1/2 ton or full size SUV uses too much fuel.

I will have to say that is the first time I have seen bolt lugs separated from TC.

Has oil filter been inspected? The canister filter if wrong or a poor aftermarket one, can allow drain for housing to open if it deforms or isn't long enough and the oil pump has enough capacity to increase pressure to normal or above by 1000 RPM to cover it.

I'm in TX and you can't spit in the middle of nowhere without it landing on an F150 but they are very scarcely seen here. The Ram 3.0 has a well earned bad reputation and that seems to have choked its numbers here. The GM 3.0 has the plastic oil pump belt in the flex plate end of engine and its whole aftertreatment stack mounted close to side of engine in engine bay. Hate to be skeptic but plastic bits on engine and in cooling system in an extra hot engine bay...I can't find anything good about that unless you are a GM tech 5-6 years from now. Not a good choice in the bunch really.

Stainless steel and stainless alloy bolts strike me as being a cure worse than the illness. They haunt me on other brands and on non automotive equipment where they use them. I can tap a 9mm socket (and yes, FINALLY get to use one of those) onto a 10mm bolt head reduced in size by rust and keep on wrenching. A SS bolt that is as brittle as glass but has a pristine bolt head does me no good. Maybe stainless steel fasteners are manufactured in a joint venture with DeWalt, Snap-on, Milwaukee, Black n Decker, etc. Tools and drill bit sales are certainly better as a result of them. I have found Milk of Magnesia to work on ones I have serviced and then have to go back again later. The oil in anti-seize can burn and stick stuff. M of M leaves that magnesium powder trace and I guess does the same to fasteners that it does in the human body: makes shit come loose.

I think the guys selecting fittings for various things on new vehicles quickly resign and go to work for tool companies. Do any of you have fingertips with Rockwell harness > 30C and diameters of 8mm from the last joint to the tip? You know, fingers that will depress those plastic releases on DEF, vapor and fuel lines once they get dust in them?

Be diligent about the vehicles you touch. You responsible for you. Full face shield keeps you from touching the most communicably rich parts of your body. At least with our vocation we are used to brake dust or grease covered hands or gloves and we may have a bit better hygiene as far as face touching goes. If you look like you are wearing war paint at the end of the day then you'd better mask up. Wiping steering wheels and keys with denatured alcohol is a good idea. Washing your hands or your gloves or frequent new gloves is advised. The precautions discussed so much about distancing are a bit different for us. The vehicles of persons not symptomatic could bring the virus to us. Just act like the baby sprayed vomit inside car and you are probably good to go.

Does this prove what so many have said? "Ford sucks". Seriously: I had non functioning hubs on one with good hub sealing and also found hub knob leaking. When the diagnosis was made the owner asked why the knobs didn't turn very far like on his older Bronco and admitted to cranking on them as they feel like they were not locked. The hubs were not marked up but he is stout man and I guess has some considerable hand strength.

Generally speaking, not sure about Ford, but there are high resolution sensors used that sense much smaller wheel incremental motion, and also direction, so ABS applies brakes if vehicle rolls with brake applied during engine off period for stop/start equipped vehicles. The tendency we have to ease up on brakes when we are stopped makes using the brake pedal position to know when to do this roll back prevention impossible without too many false engine starts. With high res sensors, steering sensor, and some turns the system can see the 4 sensors traveling at different speeds and determine the placement. The vehicles that have dropped pressure&temp sensors in the last few years do this same thing. You hit reset/calibrate after a rotate or replacement of tires and the responsible module (usually ABS) can adapt to worn tires with different circumference and then ID and know when that tire has signal change from deflation with sensitivity enough to do it on smaller circumference tires down to 8 psi. If there is a radio signal associated with the 4 determined wheel speeds then it is conceivable that the sensors can be learned with no intervention. The tire pressure being monitored allows knowledge of the circumference differences. I only know of cars using the no sensor iTPMS that use the same pressure on each position and no staggered tire setups.