cbriggs

We have an Autel tpms tool that will adjust placard pressure on all current ford vehicles. I have some bright red labels made to put next to the load placard in the door jamb to indicate it has been lowered.

Looks like it was caused by the inlet pressure/ temperature sensor (in the clean side of the air box). Sent it to ram dealer, the only code they got to consistently reset was a P2227. They called  the inlet pressure sensor, but didn't have one. I ordered and replaced it and was unable to get any concern to reproduce. Got 29.5 psi boost on a test drive, 10 psi more than I could ever obtain before.

Hoping for some insight from some of you more experienced with The 6.7 cummins in the above truck. It belongs to a good fleet customer of mine, their fleet is primarily ford, but they recently bought this unit as their service truck. It came in with a P2580 for the turbo speed sensor, a P0106 for a Map fault, A P2227 and one more code I cant recall right now ( something about NOx exceeded, egr disabled). I have replaced the turbo speed sensor and map sensor at customers request. On a cold start it sets P2580 and I can verify with scanner data that it runs about 5 seconds before turbo speed registers anything, after that it seems to read fine, although I have no reference data on what it should read during different operating conditions. When driving it generally feels gutless compared to a similar equipped f-550. (it weighs around 18k lbs) and after about 2 or 3 minutes of driving it sets a P0106 and goes into limp mode. I can watch some data on my snap on solus, the MAP sensor and turbo speed sensor are working when the code sets, but my max boost is around 18 - 19 psi WOT acceleration, with the codes cleared. I'm thinking it should be more in the 26 to 30 range? There are no boost leaks that I can see or hear. When I changed the turbo speed sensor there was some oil and crud in the sensor cavity, I ran across some info online that suggests that means the turbo is junk, but it is not from a verified source. Can anyone verify that? I'm thinking turbo but its a 7K job, so I don't want to be wrong. Any ideas?

Same here.

I've had a bunch of vref shorts in the harness to the rear. Also the ebp wiring rubbing through on the firewall insulation above the engine. Gave a symptom a lot like yours actually.

I take them out all the time. They run perfectly fine without them, any codes it sets are non MIL codes.

Currently have a 19 f-350 in my bay (New on the lot) with the drivers door frozen and not latching. Sales customer was going for a test drive until that point.

Maybe if it was at some point installed using something other than the correct tool ,and cracked at that point. Or Possibly not pushed in all the way, and the injector was torqued down after the loctitie had set.

We are having more of a problem with the power locks freezing. 18N03 does not fix them. We are at the point now that if it is an unlocking concern we are putting latches in them. I think water gets in the lock motors and we haven't found a way to get it out. We have also been drenching the latch /locks in wurth HHS 2000. We have been since the start of the rain hat ordeal. We have never had a latch freeze on a truck that we have been inside the doors. The other day my 2018 f-150 (apr 18 built, 18n03 doesn't apply) doors were frozen open at -10`c. Drove 10km to work holding the door shut. My 8 am appt no showed, so I pulled my truck in and pulled the door panels. This thing was built with some of the 18n03 stuff in it already. The doors were relatively dry inside, but there was a shit ton of frost / moisture on the steel door latch parts. Here is my take on this : Condensation is sticking to the steel parts in the door, as it cools quicker than the aluminum parts. The air inside the doors is full of moisture, the steel parts drop below freezing first and the moisture is drawn to them and freezes. Coating the steel latch parts in an adhesive oily lube prevents the moisture from clinging on the latches. 

Ive had a run of SCR and NOX related codes lately. Running the ppt on the pced online works slick for logging test results right on the ppt screens. Time consuming for sure with all the warm up and cool down cycles.

Any time I've had a noisy secondary fuel filter its due to air ingestion on the suction side. Have seen a few cracked sending units cause it. Could it be possible that the hp pump is slightly loose and the movement is fracturing that line?

That is definitely OEM. I have seen them all over. I believe ST stands for shunt. Not a protection device, just a jumper.

A few years back I had an 02 that would stall anytime the driver used his VHF radio. Very repeatable, key the mic, engine would die. Never did fix it, he just removed the radio and used a handheld instead.

Anyone been having a nightmare with esp lately? Man it has gotten bad. Have a 10 flex 3.5 (my wifes) with a powertrain esp on it. Has a piled up water pump that completely filled the engine with coolant and metal filings. Spent 4 weeks going back and forth with esp prior approval to put a complete engine in it. First estimate we sent in was for a long block, after finding 3L of coolant in the oil and severe metal debris everywhere I looked. They had us send 5 separate groups of pictures, completely remove and photograph water pump, (even though there was oil and coolant running out of weep hole, and coolant running out of water pump pulley, seen with a boroscope.), remove all 4 cams and photograph journals and remove oil pan and photograph inside. They decided via photograph that it only needs a short block and one head. We were to send the other head to a machine shop to have it flushed. (nearest one is 300km away). The price of a short block and one head was $400 less than a long block, without including gaskets and extra labour. It would actually cost more to do this. After pondering it for 2 weeks they came back and said it looks like it may be more feasible to install a long block, please provide and estimate to perform a long block replacement.(first estimate we submitted) One of the service/ parts girls literally spent 10+ hours dicking around with this, that we do not get reimbursed for. This thing broke down in the first week of august, and it is still sitting outside my bay. By the time it is fixed it will be an 8 week turnaround, given the last 2 weeks was spent waiting for an engine from the USA. When we asked what the customer is supposed to do in the meantime (after 2 weeks had gone by)  their response was put them in a rental. There is no car rental agency within 250km of us, not to mention a rental car for 8 weeks would cost more than the price of the repair itself.

We've had several other similar experiences in the last bit with them, none quite as bad as this, but still ridiculous.

Our dealer principle tells me that ford sold the esp division to an outside company, and it is no longer handled by ford itself. After this experience I am having a hard time recommending my customers purchase a ford esp policy, and I definitely will not be. 

I've seen (more than once) a small rock stuck in a pulley groove, makes a noise that you would never imagine it could.

First time I saw those shrinky / solder do-hickies, the guy selling them connected two wires and bet us lunch we couldn't pull the joint apart. After several tries the wire just broke a few inches away, the splice was stronger than the wire every time. We ended up buying some, but they rarely get used.

Probably not what they are meant for but I bet they would work for disconnecting the heater hoses on most ford vehicles.

I would be tempted to try an icp sensor before tearing into it. Your ICP v recordings look awfully strange.

Got the used engine in the 16 f550. Turns out the engine they had was out of a 2011 or 12 f-350, and the turbo, upper and lower intakes and oil separator were all missing. Although they did ship it to me with the trans and t-case attached. Basically only used the long block. Finally got all the parts to reassemble the diff in the 2017 f-350 ( has a piled up carrier bearing), and to reassemble the 5r55 for a broken reverse band. I have so much stuff torn down and pushed out right now its nuts. It seems like everything I work on i have to get some or all of my parts from the USA. For me that is 10-14 days. Parts is getting sick of doing unit down reports and emergency ordering stuff!  Diaged a 6.4 fuel for a fuel system, started as a stuck open injector. When i removed it i was pouring water out of the return port.

For us it depends on who is on the other end. Simple maintenance is quick and painless, but high dollar repair quotes sometimes can take a week and 6 or more phone calls back and forth. Their new online pre approval setup is nice.

Haha. I was being moderately sarcastic, I pretty much new that. Its everywhere, must be in their training.

I sold a retail 6.7. but cannot get the install kit or the new style engine mounts.( I think one could just drill the holes bigger in the old ones? any input on that?) It is a CP rail service unit for locomotives, they need it back asap. I have never had a nearly 20k prior approval go through ARI so fast. Lost the sale on the engine though. Instead they are sending me a used one out of a rental truck they wrote off back east somewhere.

16 explorer platinum 66 000 km, test driving for a noise on decel and in reverse, grenaded ptu and dumped burnt gear oil and parts all over the parking lot. 17 f-150 3.5 eco, left head off for a plugged oil galley ( 6km after an oil change-- there was something in the new oil filter). 15 f-550, 28 000km, 7800 hrs, so much blowby that it keeps pushing the dipstick out. This truck got its first oil change at 2200hrs, when the oil pressure light came on as the oil had turned solid. Pretty impressive that it made it another 6000 hrs. yes it's retail, warranty was flagged. 98 ranger, 70 000km, no reverse, suspect broken low/reverse band. 17 f-350 platinum, 8200km, (good buddy's truck) test drove for a rhythmic whoosh, whoosh type noise at all speeds, rear diff is full of course silver sludge that used to be oil. 2 -2013 f-150's 3.5 eco's need timing cover resealed for the used car department. It seems like everything I look at lately needs a full days work or more. I can't even remember the lineup of units down we have due to backordered parts right now.

There are notes in the parts catalogue for this, if your parts person is paying attention. 

I've thrown a few upgraded ficms in the trash. They cause more problems than they fix.