cbriggs

50% of the death wobbles i see on fords are front shock related. 25% are tires and the rest are misc. front end parts or crappy lift kits. Now dodges on the other hand....

I use wurth HHS 2000. It is a spray grease that goes on super runny and then within seconds turns grease like, but way more slippery. It also works good for lubing the weather pack seal when reconnecting electrical connectors.

Shitty deal for sure. Only thing in my bay is fmpp oil changes and f-150 door latch rain hat tsb's. Now that parts are finally landing we are burning through our backlog. They actually aren't that bad to do, and pay decent.

I was in Calgary a few months ago, when it was super cold, and my low tire pressure light came on. I stopped at a Canadian tire to get some air, (they wouldnt let me do it myself). A guy (tech?) came out and was checking my tires. He was using a tire filler with a built in slider guage, same one I have at work. He was using a separate digital guage to check pressure. I said to him " there is a guage on that air chuck you know?". His reply was "yes, but we are only allowed to use digital gauges, so we don't screw it up". 

At least you didn't circle all the answers as well.

Yes, to add to that, a worn tailshaft bushing can allow the yoke and output shaft to off-center and vibrate.

About 1800. We had a 2015 f-550 cp rail vacuum truck come in, low oil pressure warning on the dash coming on. Tech verified oil on stick, but very black. Showing 9000km on odometer, just over 2000 hours. We called the fleet managment company, only record of oil change was at 250 hours. Tech removed drain plug, nothing would come out, after poking in the drain hole a large worm like blob came out, and then nothing. Proceeded to pull oil pan, and found the oil to resemble more of a solid than liquid. A bit thicker than grease. He cleaned out the pan, replaced oil and filter and it has run about 600 hours so far, perfectly fine. The fleet company was informed that they will be buying an engine, we're just not sure when.

It is right in the fuel contamination job aid, about def clogging a fitting and blowing the return line apart. Your fuel sample looks exactly like the one I got out of a truck a few weeks ago that put 8L of def in his fuel tank. The def seems to react with the fuel and turn the watery part all brown, and then turn all the fuel cloudy like lemonade almost. My customer declined fuel system repairs, just wanted the tank cleaned, filters changed and the LP system flushed. Not sure if its still running, he was from out of town. It was a 2016 with 45k on it. We did submit a warranty change request.

Good thing I have my gas engine and trans serts to fall back on, the diesel "fad" seems to be ending here as well. ($90,000 price tag is definatly helping that)

Hey thats neat. I am going to make one, but i think i will use a 6 rib serp belt, to avoid any chance of scoring a pulley.

I had a 3.5 in an edge do that same thing a few years ago. The chain had actually jumped off the teeth and was running out on the end of the pulley, up against the cover. We had no cel, chasing a terrible noise.

If it is any consolation, chevy is having a problem as well. It is actually a recall on some newer 1/2 tons. I diaged one the other day and the customer called chevy to check warranty, that is how we found out about it. They are blaming it on defective thermostats. Excessive themal cycling is cracking the end plates and making tank seals fail.

Catalyst?

I have changed atleast 6 of these since the weather got cold.

I have used victor rienz gaskets on a 6.0, they looked exactly like the ford 6.4l ones.

When the arp studs first came out for the 6.0 the torque spec was about 60ft/lbs heavier than it is now. They found the excess clamp loads were distorting the block and deck surface.

My post was referencing every single time I have a def heater / sender replacement the customer fills the tank to try to make the fault go away....

Oh yeah. My exhaust fluid fault light came on, so I filled it up. But the light didn't go out.....

Ah, I see. I am not that old, but plaqued with lower back problems if I am not carefull. I have gotten really good at cab removal, in the interest of not being in pain for two weeks. I did my first lh exhaust valve replacement on one of these a few months ago. Up until then I have only removed complete engines on these, as they are almost never repaireable. I took in the 11 -12 hour range to do the exhaust valve tsb cab off.

Mike, we had a 2.7 doing that recently and we ran cost cap for 1 head and it came back replace engine. Hotline also wanted it replaced. It was a 16 edge sport with 3500kms.

Just curious Brad and Leon, how long did it take you to do it this way? I have done this job cab off, and am curious if it would be worth the time saving.

Based on the fact that no short block is available, you get a long block, no?

I am overhauling a 455 in a 1970 buick gsx. It belongs to our sales dept (they buy and sell classic cars) It is a fairly fresh 700 hp build, G-M has been driving it around all summer, lost compression in #2 cylinder and had wicked blow by. Tore it appart today, has 7 broken valve springs, blown head gasket ( into crankcase) , scored cylinder walls, and wiped main bearings. Ye haw. And he sold the car today, so time is of the essence.

Is the pcm the only module that doesnt communucate? IE: What are the results of a network test?

Wax based permanent rust proofing. I use the proform brand, but many others make it as well. Goes on like fluid film, but partially dries to a waxy type material. Cost way less than fluid film, and doesnt smell nearly as bad.