Skidonenko

I used a copper washer for the 6.4l with the connecting part, the ones with the rubber might work also

I had a long reply typed but then I remeber I do not really care what other people think about what I drive/do. My only unexpected creampuff dying was self induced from not filtering the peanut oil enough. People with their nose that much in the air can lick their testicle of choice

We had a couple claims get kicked (i do not know if they have been paid yet) after replacing the pump for trash in the IPR. We have had hell getting prior aproval for anything already in place let alone this crap to come. Sent in a request for a long block on a 3v 5.4 and it came back stating "other dealers are repairing these under the cost cap" I know the guy did not read anything that I typed and the parts cost. I love this job (I hate dealing with people) but I will be looking into something else soon, maybe a county or city.

I wonder what ford is finding on the 6.4 tick/cracking noise

I heard from a tech that i work with that we are in for a TSB for this. Something about installing a t fitting in one of the overflow lines. A tech somewhere had repalced a bunch of radiators on one truck and on the last one a FSE showed up. I have not have the time to look for this but I am guessing its on fmcdealer since I did not see it on here. (or i over looked it)

I wear nitrile gloves as well. The ones the shop buys are from Atlas and are pretty flimsy. Some jobs I go through several sets. I used to be tough and would have my hands in contact with just about anything going. After many years of this, I finally got smart. One thing that got my attention was the statement made at Ford school by the instuctor. He said "gasoline gets absorbed directly into your body through the skin and will cause immediate and irreversible liver and kidney damage." If that isn't enough, the warning on motor oil states that "long term contact with used motor oil has been shown to cause skin cancer in lab rats." Also, I always wondered why my hands felt "funny" after washing them in parts cleaner. It felt as if the hair on them was standing straight up as if there was static electricity in them. This lasted several hours afterwards. To each his own, as long as you are aware of the dangers involved. I do not like wearing gloves, but prefer wearing them to the alternatives. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif

We are just one bigh sponge

Ive tried some laytex gloves, usually after i mangle a finger, but my hands seem sweat alot and I get that effect like staying in the tub too long and the skin starts to peel. The mechanics type gloves dye my hands what ever color they are. Anyone else had these problems?

Im 27 and have been damaging my hands since I started building model cars when I was little

I will say that there are dealer warranty admins that will not flag mtime, and diag to keep the numbers down. Granted I think the techs should find another shop but some do not care/stuck where they are for other reasons and will just find any way to make a profit off of the jobs.

A fellow on my group had to use this the other day and it worked flawlessly (1st use of the tool) but the set up time on the lock-tite is and hour or so

When I was at Ford school one time a few years ago, the teacher had a novel way of describing the operating principle of the "brain box". He said all electronic "boxes" were sealed full of smoke. He said if you ever caused them to leak and "let the smoke out" they would never work again. Makes as much sense as calling them "brain boxes". /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

heard that one a bunch. If you let the smoke out of wires, brake switches etc. they are ruined too

One question for all of us guys??? Don't we have shop Foreskins/Service advisors checking them over and test driving before it's approved as a fixed vehicle???

Who damn that was funny..... My advisor does occasionaly but for the most part it all on the techs to do this. As far as giving it back with finger prints/smudges and just plain being fixed it should be on us. (exceptions for intemitants) I knew of a customer that made a map to all the areas where a rattle occoured in her daily routine........

Well, I found out the adapter between the gauge and the glowplug adapter was leaking so I have 375-400 on the ends and 300 in the center holes. Guess I need to help my team leader and get some newer tools, or replace his worn out stuff

Did the guy with the camera scare the shit out of that black cat in the background? We have a dealership pet that runs around but its a chicken

I made a nifty press adapter for use when replacing the rear hub bearings on 02 and up Explorer's. I took an old rear rotor off one that was getting new rotors as well as bearings. I carefully knocked the centre out of it(just the flat area that rests on the hub)with a large hammer. I cleaned up the inside diameter of a few rough edges left from knocking the centre out with a burr in a die grinder. Now when pressing the hub centre out of the assembly, the adapter I made sits nicely against the flimsy backing plate with out doing any damage to it and the hub pushes out the centre through the hole I made in the rotor. The other guys in the shop use it as well. I store it in the box the new rotor came in, marked as a tool so it doesn't go out to the scrap pile. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

One i had forgotten about. We have 2 laying aroung. Next time try sticking it on the drum brake lathe and cut it out

I cannot wait to get ahold of a mill/lathe soon to see what I can come up with. We have an 3.0 water pump pulley as a axle seal installer on the super duty hubs. An old outer race from a fwd welded to a long tube for axle seals on exped/exploters. I made some trans pan adapters for jacks and a torqueshift lever/adapter for a bench ficture (mounts in the center so its a 1 man job to rotate) and im shure there are more

I used to work with an asset student who managed to get greasy footprints on the headliner of a customers Lincoln /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hahaha.gif /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/hitthefan.gif

How bount tire tracks /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boink3.gif

Im only 26 and I like to think i take the time to be clean, but on the same not I am not working as a detailer. I have had customers cars come in and I am glad there was a seat cover and floor mat so that I do not get dirty. One even asked why the car was not cleaned, thing was coverd by her booger factories food and candy. In the situation you were in I agree the finger prints are a no no but I think there is a line where the wash boys take over.

I had this same problem for a few weeks on an explorer. I even pulled the valve cover off and everything looked ok. After 2 engineers coming out and using the scope and shielding the harness and a slew of other things the engineer said he read a report of 1 truck in kaliforia arounf the same milage with a timing chain that had streached. I pulled the timing cover and shure enough the timing chain guide had cracked around the upper bolt and fell against the head. It will not cause any rough running or engine noise at all. It is just enough slack to allow the tensioner to extend and the chain to slack ever so slightly. I shure wish we had access to the reports or engineers that would read through them (or something easier to them to deal with if the system in place sucks donkey nuts that bad)

oh it started here fine......... with ether

Ill have to double check witch one it was but I used a deep 1/2" drive socket in place of the caliper tool. I bought my own tap and driver tool and it came with the plastic cups to catch the shavings

/forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif Its one damn expensive tap though

Sounds good, at this point im into it another $300 or so with 7.3 glow plugs (only one worked, and the relay is connected to a button) master cylinder, a ujoint, and a steering gear. one of the main users of the trans fluid just got rid of his truck and its getting warmer so 100% might be on the way.

I picked up a 85' 250 with a 6.9L, milage="rolled the odometer a couple times" for $400. Relaced the fuel lines and it busted right off. Ive been driving it for a couple months on atf 50/50 diesel to atf 75/25 diesel. What are some tell tale signs the injecton pump is going out? It idles alot smoother on the atf that straight diesel. Also I was able to find a compression gauge adapter and came up with 300 psi cold while cranking.

Is this thing on the downward slide? The truck is not really worth an engine but if the engine will hold up another year or 2 Ill hang onto it.

Josh

p.s. I was 4 when this truck was built /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif

Yeah i had one of these also. In my case the shortblock das not making noise and was told by hotline "Its ok, they used marine grade bearings. Just clean it up and repalce the oil cooler along with the timing cover/pump" Guess ill see how long this one lasts.......

I have seen 3 of these. The first one we took too long over christmas break and the fleet company took the truck to another dealer where it was heard but then dissapeared never to return. With this truck it needed to be drivin about 5 miles and it sounded like someone was arching a sparkplug wire (tack! tack!) It went away on decel when the injectors were silent, dissabling cylinders, messing the the fuel pressure did nothing. It was loudest about 1500rpm in neutral.

The other 2 had a similar sounding noise, did need to be warm but only needed to be drivin around the parking lot. The noise was there on accel and decel. Again fuel pressure and cyl dissabline did nothing to change the noise.

I was told by a hotline dude to replace the crank in the 1st one (gear basklash issue). After a call from a tech that saw my post on on FMCD with a similar problem I called back and got a diffrent guy and he said hold off.

The call on the 2nd truck I recived the "its under investigation at this time" shpeal.

Hum, I have never had to pull the shroud with the radiator, maybe with the ranch hands you must.

Here is my list...

evac a/c

remove the 4 8mm bolts on the shroud

drain the radiator

loosen the fuel cooler

remove the intercooler

loosen the p/s cooler

remove the trans cooler/hoses

disconnect the hood latch (both ends)

remove the straps to the core support

remove the core support

disconnect the top 2 hoses

loosen the wiring harness from the radiator

pull the radiator up and forward alittle on the pass side to

disconnect that hose

remove the radiator.

Going back together as soon as the a/c lines are secure start the

vac/recharge

Ill have to time my self but i swear its takes an hour or less.(I have done 6 or so)

I have been seeing this In texas as of late rfom the water intrusion. The factory connection looks like there is no grease at all but on a new trailor hook up from parts there is di-electric grease.