Skidonenko

I used a copper washer for the 6.4l with the connecting part, the ones with the rubber might work also

I had a long reply typed but then I remeber I do not really care what other people think about what I drive/do. My only unexpected creampuff dying was self induced from not filtering the peanut oil enough. People with their nose that much in the air can lick their testicle of choice

We had a couple claims get kicked (i do not know if they have been paid yet) after replacing the pump for trash in the IPR. We have had hell getting prior aproval for anything already in place let alone this crap to come. Sent in a request for a long block on a 3v 5.4 and it came back stating "other dealers are repairing these under the cost cap" I know the guy did not read anything that I typed and the parts cost. I love this job (I hate dealing with people) but I will be looking into something else soon, maybe a county or city. I wonder what ford is finding on the 6.4 tick/cracking noise

I heard from a tech that i work with that we are in for a TSB for this. Something about installing a t fitting in one of the overflow lines. A tech somewhere had repalced a bunch of radiators on one truck and on the last one a FSE showed up. I have not have the time to look for this but I am guessing its on fmcdealer since I did not see it on here. (or i over looked it)

We are just one bigh sponge

Ive tried some laytex gloves, usually after i mangle a finger, but my hands seem sweat alot and I get that effect like staying in the tub too long and the skin starts to peel. The mechanics type gloves dye my hands what ever color they are. Anyone else had these problems? Im 27 and have been damaging my hands since I started building model cars when I was little

I will say that there are dealer warranty admins that will not flag mtime, and diag to keep the numbers down. Granted I think the techs should find another shop but some do not care/stuck where they are for other reasons and will just find any way to make a profit off of the jobs.

A fellow on my group had to use this the other day and it worked flawlessly (1st use of the tool) but the set up time on the lock-tite is and hour or so

heard that one a bunch. If you let the smoke out of wires, brake switches etc. they are ruined too

Who damn that was funny..... My advisor does occasionaly but for the most part it all on the techs to do this. As far as giving it back with finger prints/smudges and just plain being fixed it should be on us. (exceptions for intemitants) I knew of a customer that made a map to all the areas where a rattle occoured in her daily routine........

Well, I found out the adapter between the gauge and the glowplug adapter was leaking so I have 375-400 on the ends and 300 in the center holes. Guess I need to help my team leader and get some newer tools, or replace his worn out stuff

Did the guy with the camera scare the shit out of that black cat in the background? We have a dealership pet that runs around but its a chicken

One i had forgotten about. We have 2 laying aroung. Next time try sticking it on the drum brake lathe and cut it out

I cannot wait to get ahold of a mill/lathe soon to see what I can come up with. We have an 3.0 water pump pulley as a axle seal installer on the super duty hubs. An old outer race from a fwd welded to a long tube for axle seals on exped/exploters. I made some trans pan adapters for jacks and a torqueshift lever/adapter for a bench ficture (mounts in the center so its a 1 man job to rotate) and im shure there are more

How bount tire tracks /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/boink3.gif

Im only 26 and I like to think i take the time to be clean, but on the same not I am not working as a detailer. I have had customers cars come in and I am glad there was a seat cover and floor mat so that I do not get dirty. One even asked why the car was not cleaned, thing was coverd by her booger factories food and candy. In the situation you were in I agree the finger prints are a no no but I think there is a line where the wash boys take over.

I had this same problem for a few weeks on an explorer. I even pulled the valve cover off and everything looked ok. After 2 engineers coming out and using the scope and shielding the harness and a slew of other things the engineer said he read a report of 1 truck in kaliforia arounf the same milage with a timing chain that had streached. I pulled the timing cover and shure enough the timing chain guide had cracked around the upper bolt and fell against the head. It will not cause any rough running or engine noise at all. It is just enough slack to allow the tensioner to extend and the chain to slack ever so slightly. I shure wish we had access to the reports or engineers that would read through them (or something easier to them to deal with if the system in place sucks donkey nuts that bad)

oh it started here fine......... with ether

Ill have to double check witch one it was but I used a deep 1/2" drive socket in place of the caliper tool. I bought my own tap and driver tool and it came with the plastic cups to catch the shavings /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/drinkingdude.gif Its one damn expensive tap though

Sounds good, at this point im into it another $300 or so with 7.3 glow plugs (only one worked, and the relay is connected to a button) master cylinder, a ujoint, and a steering gear. one of the main users of the trans fluid just got rid of his truck and its getting warmer so 100% might be on the way.

I picked up a 85' 250 with a 6.9L, milage="rolled the odometer a couple times" for $400. Relaced the fuel lines and it busted right off. Ive been driving it for a couple months on atf 50/50 diesel to atf 75/25 diesel. What are some tell tale signs the injecton pump is going out? It idles alot smoother on the atf that straight diesel. Also I was able to find a compression gauge adapter and came up with 300 psi cold while cranking. Is this thing on the downward slide? The truck is not really worth an engine but if the engine will hold up another year or 2 Ill hang onto it. Josh p.s. I was 4 when this truck was built /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/icon_crazy.gif

Yeah i had one of these also. In my case the shortblock das not making noise and was told by hotline "Its ok, they used marine grade bearings. Just clean it up and repalce the oil cooler along with the timing cover/pump" Guess ill see how long this one lasts.......

I have seen 3 of these. The first one we took too long over christmas break and the fleet company took the truck to another dealer where it was heard but then dissapeared never to return. With this truck it needed to be drivin about 5 miles and it sounded like someone was arching a sparkplug wire (tack! tack!) It went away on decel when the injectors were silent, dissabling cylinders, messing the the fuel pressure did nothing. It was loudest about 1500rpm in neutral. The other 2 had a similar sounding noise, did need to be warm but only needed to be drivin around the parking lot. The noise was there on accel and decel. Again fuel pressure and cyl dissabline did nothing to change the noise. I was told by a hotline dude to replace the crank in the 1st one (gear basklash issue). After a call from a tech that saw my post on on FMCD with a similar problem I called back and got a diffrent guy and he said hold off. The call on the 2nd truck I recived the "its under investigation at this time" shpeal.

Hum, I have never had to pull the shroud with the radiator, maybe with the ranch hands you must. Here is my list... evac a/c remove the 4 8mm bolts on the shroud drain the radiator loosen the fuel cooler remove the intercooler loosen the p/s cooler remove the trans cooler/hoses disconnect the hood latch (both ends) remove the straps to the core support remove the core support disconnect the top 2 hoses loosen the wiring harness from the radiator pull the radiator up and forward alittle on the pass side to disconnect that hose remove the radiator. Going back together as soon as the a/c lines are secure start the vac/recharge Ill have to time my self but i swear its takes an hour or less.(I have done 6 or so)

I have been seeing this In texas as of late rfom the water intrusion. The factory connection looks like there is no grease at all but on a new trailor hook up from parts there is di-electric grease.