Bruce Amacker

This is hilarious! I already make jokes in class about going to Hell, and finding out that Satan himself drives a 6.0 E-van. I can't think of anything I'd rather do on vacation that go into the shop and work on an Friggin 6.0 E-VAN!!! ROFLMAO!!!! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

Even funnier is the fact that the check valves don't do anything. You can blow through them both ways with your mouth, whether they're used or new......

I understand the reality of getting it done within a reasonable time frame, but this kind of scares me. What if there's a problem with a restriction in the standpipe check valve, or check valves going into the heads? (I've seen both) Your reading will tell you it's fine when there's a severe pressure drop at the heads. I always teach to check it at the heads so there's no doubt about delivery fuel pressure. It seems like every time I cut corners, I end up getting burned- maybe not on this truck, but on the next one. When I help guys on the phone with 7.3 low power, no code situations (after they've put a turbo on it) I always have them check fuel pressure at both heads. As I get on in years I wanna cover my ass more.....

If I told you I spent 1.5 days driving around to various Weatherhead and Parker hydraulics places, specialty metric fittings places, hydraulic shops, and parts stores to look in their parts catalogs and etc, just for 6.0 fuel pressure fittings, would you believe me? It's true. I did find a specialty shop that would make a 45 degree fitting for me- $42 each with a minimum order of 50. Brake hose banjos don't come that big for any vehicle in the catalog, I looked. Neither of what you have linked will work because it has to be a banjo setup. The exhaust pipes are too close for a regular adapter fitting- it's about 1-1.25" access, if I remember right. At the bottom of the page it does have some banjos listed that "could" work, but right now I don't remember the thread size and pitch. I do a lot of Evan classes for various fleets, so I really did put a ton of effort into this. I'm pretty sure it's 12mm, but a different thread pitch than the 12mm plug in the secondary filter housing where you check FP on an F-model. If I were to guess, I'd say the F-model adapter is 12x1.5 and the head thread is 12x1.25. Another strange thing for my aftermarket crowd- if you buy a regular 12mm adapter to check fuel pressure at the secondary FF, the outside dimension is too large. The Rotunda PN 303-765 has a relatively small OD to clear the fuel pressure regulator housing. The M12-1/4F8OHGS Parker fitting, which has the same thread on both ends as the 303-765, has a substantially larger OD and must be ground down and cranked in with a Channelocks. No standard manufacturer makes a fitting with the smaller OD. BTDTGTTS! /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

Forget checking it at the secondary filter, you'll probably have to take off a bunch of stuff for access. I suggest checking it at the rear of each head. You can make up some fittings, or this is copied from my book: Option 1: Purchase: OTC PN 7443 (quantity 1) Total: $53.41 Shipping: $8.36 Total: $61.77 tooldiscounter.com IH PN 1834731C1 Bolt $10.83 (quantity 1) IH PN 1828336C1 Washer $.60/ea (quantity 2) 2. Use a pick to remove the check valve from the banjo bolt 3. Adapt the fitting to your fuel gauge (1/8”NPT) 4. Bolt to the rear of cylinder head fuel passage Option 2: Purchase: IH PN 1837698C1 Tube $29.94 (quantity 1) IH PN 1834731C1 Bolt $10.83 (quantity 1) IH PN 1828336C1 Washer $.60/ea (quantity 2) 2. Use a pick to remove the check valve from the banjo bolt 3. Adapt the steel tube or hose to your fuel gauge (tube and hose are both ¼”) 4. Bolt to the rear of cylinder head fuel passage Option 3: Steal the front line from the secondary filter housing to the front of the head from a core motor (or an arch enemy's truck /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif ) Cut this off and put a hose and hose clamp on it to adapt to your guage. Pics: http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=133&cat=500 http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=132 Good Luck!

I still think they should hard wire that bitch in and eliminate the EBP. Reflash it, and you're good to go with a positive feedback on the VGT position like Garrett intended and Duramax uses. *sigh*

Yes, I believe they have guides and seats. I bought a brand new PSD with a broken block years ago that was ravaged for parts, so someone had taken everything off the heads that could unbolt. $100 for the pair sound too high? They weigh a ton, I don't know how to ship then cheaply. If you can deal with the time, call me at 440-846-3885 and I'll look them over and shoot some pics tomorrow. I still have the block, too, and the only thing wrong with it is the bolt holes are screwed up where the FP mounts from someone running too long of a bolt into the bosses. The side of the boss is blown out on 1 or both, I don't remember. I just scrapped the brand new CS a few weeks ago 'cause I thought I'd never need it.

Hey, I see by your avatar that you got a haircut. It looks good! BTW, those vacuum switches have a very high failure rate. I bet it's gone by now, but if not, I'd hang one to CYA. Good Luck!

Too bad you're not closer to me. I have two brand new '94-95 PSD heads (never run) without valves that I could let go cheap....

The turbo diag booklet shows 1.25 PSI minimum cold and 2.25 PSI minimum hot at sea level.

How does this truck run unloaded? What is MFDES at a hot idle? It should be under 12mg. If it is in the 14-16 range, it is starving for fuel from low pressure or bad injectors. Have you tried any Stanadyne Performance Formula, PM-17-A, or F8AZ-9C077-AA additive in it? I'd put a half pint in the filter housing and the rest in the tank and drive it. If the problem changes, it's either bad injectors or bad fuel. I had one years ago that was a nightmare, and turned out to be a loose injector that would aerate the fuel only after a hard run with a trailer. The problem would not occur without a trailer or unloaded. Good Luck!

Hey Guys (and Larry!): Is this still current information? Broadcast message 3815 lists a new sensor for trucks built before 1-17-05--4C3Z-9J460-A. Thanks!

That truck was an '04. Today I did an '05 and got 3.01psi. The '05 also has 3 graphs (VGTDC, MGP, and EBPG) to the '04's 2 graphs (VGTDC and MGP).

Hey Guys: My IDS just went through an big new update screen on the internet I've never seen before, and a new test showed up- a Turbo Boost Test, under Air Management next to the EGR test. It commands the VGT closed at idle and graphs MGP. What are you guys getting on this test? The truck I did today only got 1.05psi. Thanks!

My personal opinion is that the lubricity is once more a factor, similar to what we went through in '93 when LSD came out. I did see/hear of a lot of 7.3 drain valve o-rings leaking right after the ULSD became common last summer.

My condolences. I was very lucky to be in business for 25+ years without a claimable fire or crash. If you need anything, let us know.

I won't even let my VCM sit in my car overnight. When I travel, it's never in my gear or suitcase, it's always in my laptop bag. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

We've had them all- garbage trucks, "honey wagons" (porta-potty pumpers), construction, dumps, etc. The worst BY FAR was a tanker truck used to pump the old cooking grease out of restaurant tanks. The odor was unbelievable from this truck- so bad that my secretary went home ill from nausea when it was in one time, and the office is in a different room from the shop. If the doors were open at both ends of the shop, it was almost tolerable for a tech- and remember most tech's sense of smell is shot from breathing Brake Clean. If it was too cold to have the doors open, it was unbearable. After this truck visited us 2-3 times, we took a vote and politely told the owner to find a new shop. Second place went to a triaxle dump driver who was the worst pig I ever saw- I had to do dash electrical on his truck one time and emptied a wheelbarrow full of trash (rotten sandwiches, food wrappers, newspapers, etc) from the cab floor and it smelled terrible. I called the owner and told him I was charging him and extra $50 for cleaning, which he completely understood and deducted from the driver's pay. He had it "up to here" with this driver already. Mud doesn't bother me a bit, besides having to scoop it up after doing a big job. What bothers me are the jackasses who won't fix an oil leak and drive it dripping for 2 years, and then you have to put a clutch in it. Tied for third was the guy who chewed tobacco and couldn't hit the can to save his life. The other third place contender was the lady's car with the Kotex wrappers all over the floor of the car. We're thinking she was whipping the used ones out the window as she was driving down the road. Duck!

I made a cutout box to go in series with the VC connector, and rarely use it. If it's a 99.5 up truck and you have a scan tool that reads Perdel pids, you don't need a cutout box. Perdels will show you weak cylinders that won't set a code. Also, make sure you run the contribution test in "drive" if it's an automatic, as that will also identify weak cylinders easier. Copied from my book: PERDEL- Percentage Delta This PID is for detecting misfire at idle. Identified by Ford as: Cylinder percent change in rotational velocity, used for detecting a cylinder misfire. This only exists on 99.5 up trucks and only works after warmed up. #8 cylinder almost always shows a higher number like 1.0-2.4% It takes about 3% to set a code during the Contribution Test. The PIDs are only active at idle and go to 0 if revved up. An excellent way to identify a weak injector on a late truck! PERDEL1 0.0% PERDEL6 0.7% PERDEL2 0.5% PERDEL7 0.0% PERDEL3 0.0% PERDEL8 2.4% PERDEL4 2.2% PERDEL5 0.0% This would show #4 as the weak cylinder. Good Luck!

Just that info alone is very helpful. Thanks, Jim!

Hey Guys: I know this is off topic, but I have heard that Focus rear drum ABS use the new style MR (Magnetic Reluctance) sensor instead of a regular AC style sensor, and the reluctor is built into the rear wheel seal. Can anyone verify this, and tell me what years it applies to? I'll have to include this in my ABS class. Thanks!

I think it's in all 7.3 PSD's and sporadic gas vehicles. I don't think it's in 6.0/6.4.

Keith: That may be easier said than done. I have been through the wringer with IC3COMs and USB/serial adapters with mega frustration in the end. OHNO60, go ahead and try an adapter but keep your fingers crossed on whether it works for you. There are regular adapters, and those with software that supposedly "mimic" a port, which should work better. I have a whole box of adapters that bring back nothing but painful memories. Also, if you are using an adapter and have communications issues (which you will), tech support will be of no help. Communications issues are enough of a problem with the right cable and MD programs. I suggest getting the right laptop/cable from the start to save headaches later. Good Luck!

Unfortunately, Vista is not compatible with many automotive programs that I (we) run. The laptop in question belongs to my associate trainer who is doing 6.0 classes and needs to have an IDS. And, yes, I'm a cheap bastard too, and would prefer not buying another copy of Pro. Thanks!

Hey Guys: I need to load IDS on a machine that has XP Home. I know this has been covered in the past, but I was not able to pull it up on a search. Is there a program that tricks IDS into thinking XP Home is XP Pro? Thanks!