38ryr88

I was gifted a 2016 F-150 2.7 Eco-boost with a front cover oil leak right before the gasoline line tech went on vacation. The truck has approx. 7800 miles on it. I only work on diesels and had never even opened the hood on one before. We replaced the front cover gasket, oil pan gasket, both valve cover gaskets. I was careful to use the right thickness of silicone on the mating surfaces and let it dry for a full day. Right after we started it up the oil pressure gauge drops out intermittently at idle only. The spec in the WSM only states 30 PSI at 1500 RPM. Put a oil pressure gauge on it and I have 30 PSI at 1500 RPM but only 7-8 at idle when it drops out. I contacted the Hot (NOT)-line and was informed that I have a problem with the oil pressure sensor and not a base engine concern ?? WTF ? I informed them once again that I used a manual oil pressure gauge and only got a reading of 7-8 psi at idle. I was then instructed that there is NO spec for oil pressure at idle ? Hot-line instructed us to replace the oil pump which we did with no change in the symptom. oil level is at the full mark. The oil filter stem and O-rings are intact and properly seated. we of course, used an OEM filter and 5/30 oil as required per the WSM. When we removed the oil pan for the second time, all silicone gasket material seems accounted for on both the engine block and oil pan itself. The o-ring inside the pump is properly seated and the pick up tube is intact and not cracked.We replaced the oil pan during the oil pump replacement just in case. The only other thing I can think of is the oil galley seal on the front of the engine under the front cover which we have not taken back apart yet. Anybody run into this concern before ? Thank you

Thanks for the input. The HPOP was the problem. Thanks again

I read that related thread before I posted. I am concerned that had I got debris in the resivor, I would have a wiped out ipr or at least seen evidence on the screen?

I have an 07 f-250 that was towed in for a lack of power and loss of coolant. Peformed 09-8-3 replacing the egr cooler and heat exchanger. Changed the oil and was backing out of my stall to peform the pvt test and the truck died. Was only able to get the icp to 400 psi no matter how long I cranked it over. I was concerned about debris getting into the HP resivor even though I always completely drain and clean the resivor when I replace the screen in the resivor. Pulled the IPR and found no debris or damage to the screen. Air tested the HP oil system and confirmed the noise change when commanding the duty cycle on the ipr. I could hear a noise which sounded like the stc fitting so I removed the cover and air tested again and found no leak ? Swapped out the ipr with a known good one just in case and no change. Then I noticed air bubbles comming up from the port on top of the oil cooler where the oil supply tube for the turbo mounts ? I figured I messed up an o-ring when I replaced the heat exchanger on the oil cooler so I pulled it back out and took it apart and everything was where it was supposed to be. Found no pinched of chaffed o-rings and made sure the top was completely seated. Contacted hotline and was told to replace the cooler ? I am concerned on the theory of this however as it seems that the air comming out of the port would be on the base oil side as the port is before the HP resivor ? I did also pull both valve covers and verified there were no leaks and also pulled the filter and verified the housing fills when the check valve is depressed while cranking. Could there be a check valve in the pump that is allowing pressure to bleed off even though the ipr is maxed out ? Anything I may be over looking ? Thank you

Had my first 6.7 that was in for a stalling concern. Dtc's were p0606,p06a6,p2138,p0336,p0193,p02e1. If you suspect a v-ref short and find no chafe at the egr cooler gasket, closely inspect the plug at the dpf pressure sensor. I found a tiny chafe on the v-ref wire and the signal return wire. Weird thing is that the chafe point is about 1 inch away from the sensor bracket. I had to remove the tab on the wire harness to to get enough play to ground out the wire and duplicate the stall ? I hope this info may save someone some time as we have yet to recieve our printed EVTM's. It took forever to pull up all the v-ref circuits in the online wiring diagrams.

I was looking for info on why the oil level increases on the 6.4 when oil change intervals are increased or ignored. I have seen several the last few weeks where the cust has not had and oil change in over 8,000 plus miles and I seem to be draining 17-19 quarts of oil from the engine with no evidence or conclusion of fuel dilution.

I have a 08 F-350 6.4 that was towed in the other day for a complaint of a sudden loud noise while driving. Found two of the three starter bolts missing and the starter covered in oil and flopping around. Re-secured it and no-change. I inspected the ring gear and flex plate as best I could thru the inspection hole but found no smoking gun. I thought it sounded like the plunger was hanging up so I replaced the starter and the noise remains. I was thinking that I may have overlooked the flex plate for sure. I lowered the truck down and it sounds like the noise is comming from the HP turbo area. There is a decent size oil leak from the HP drain tube. The pitch of the noise is so bad that I cant even isolate it with a stethascope. I did notice upon insp before repair that cust has gone 15k miles since last oil change. The oil looks like crap but is at the proper level. Vech has codes for HP fuel system of p0003 and p0091. According to oasis repair history there have been no repairs done to the truck that may have led to the starter being removed and or left loose. I was really confused as to why the starter would come loose and have a noise that seems unrelated. Thats as far as I got before the weekend but it has been eating me up thinking I have two weird concerns or totally mis-diaged this thing so far. I was going to check crankshaft end play and also command the vgt to see it the noise changes tomorrow morning. Thank you for any help or suggestions

Was wondering if anyone else has had the luxury of unleaded fuel contaimation in a 6.4 . Was instructed by the hotline to replace all the components in the HP fuel system . I knew there was a problem once I pulled a p0087 and p2291 codes. I have been instructed to replace all injectors, The hp fuel pump, The fuel cooler and both lines from it, The secondary fuel filter housing , Both fuel rails, FRP sensor , Fuel filters, Remove fuel cell for cleaning , Flush fuel from both heads, ETC. I understand the maintaining the fuel system to a pristine condition is impeartive but the cust is up to 5 grand in parts alone, She was able to file a claim with her insurance. Has anyone else had to deal with this ????

I have an 04 F-250 late build that came in for overheat concern with the di-gas cap venting. Vech has 50k miles and had headgaskets,oil/egr coolers done at 37k miles. No Dtc's or external leaks. Cap would release at approx 12 psi so I replaced it. Egr cooler holds vacuum for well over 15 min. ect/eot was max 14 degree F difference on flat ground with little load. Vech is just out of 5/100. Drove vech approx 15 miles to a spot where there was a steady incline so I could put a load on the engine. In less than 3 miles ect spiked to 253 and eot was 240 before I reached the next exit.Cooling fan is operating properly. I figured that the higher ect temp was related to a coolant flow concern since the eot was lower than the ect. I checked the water pump impeller and t-stat and both are in good condition. I was wondering if I am missing something obvious. Havent seen such an high ect reading while peforming 09-8-3 before. Was hoping toget a few opnions here. Thank You

Well it indeed ended up being the fuel pump. Thanks again for the help.

Thank You For the input gentlemen !

I have an 06 F-250 with that came in for a concern that cust stated the vech nearly stalled at a stop light and had no power afterwards so was towed in. Pre checks all pass Except did not test fuel pressure due to stuck turbo. All pids for HP oil system good, Have CM codes for CKP and CMP , Contribution codes for cyl's 1&2 , p0299 and a hard fault P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High. I figured the CKP and CMP codes were related to a stall or near stall. RPM and SYNC Pids were good while cranking, However,I had a hard time starting the vech so I made sure all ficm voltages were good. It did not have the inductive heat stragedy installed so I updated it and re-tested all voltages to confirm ficm was ok. The turbo was sticking so I figured I better peform the coking tsb before attempting to test fuel pressure. Replaced the CHRA due to being corroded and installed new batteries(Cust requested). Started the vech and ran at idle. Fuel pressure was approx 47 psi koeo and 51 psi at idle. The contribution codes are gone but had a bad miss in #5. I did not attempt to run vech at WOT to test fuel pressure because of this. Power balance showed #5 dropping out so followed ppt and I replaced #5 injector and on re-start vech ran for a few seconds and died. Sounded like an obvious lack of fuel. removed secondary filter cap and turned eng to koeo and housing will not fill up. self test has a hard fault for p0232 but after looking up ppt for code it doesnt make sense as I can hear the pump turn on with the ignition. I ran out of time today before I could re-test fuel pressure but I am confident I wont have any. I am sure if I follow the ppt I can figure it out, Was just wondering if I could have shot myself in the foot by doing my diag in the order I did or if I am on the right track ? I have only been doing Diesel work for about a year and havent had any issues pertaining to this code. Thank You for anyhelp or opnions. BTW I know this one will do wonders for our 126 !

Thank you for the input gentlemen ! I abandoned the wsm procedure for the rocker arm removal.I ended up turning the engine over til push rods were at their lowest point then removed them. I will definately pull the engine or cab next time for sure ! Thank you again.

I was wondering if anyone has any "ideas" on an easier way to remove the rocker arms on 6,7,and 8 when doing the branch tube on an 06 F-350 ? Seems no matter how careful I am , I always end up fishing for the ball bearings while trying to remove the arm ! When I re-install them I use grease to hold the ball in the rocker while attempting to slide it onto the push rod but always seem to end up loosing it multiple time before I can get it to seat properly. I know I have the special tool installed properly and the valve bridges seem fully compressed. I know the eng has to be rotated 1 more revloution for #6. It seems like the push rods in cylinders 7 & 8 are still seated too far in the rocker arm to remove as described in the wsm? Is there a way to possibly rotate the eng slightly before of after tdc to get a precious few millimeters for #7 and #8 ? Seems each time I have to do a branch tube , I loose so much time removing and re-installing the rockers that I tell myself I am just going to pull the engine next time ! Dont know if I am doing something wrong or if it is simply a repair that is going to take numerous times to master. Any tips would be greatly appreciated, Thank you .

I had a 05 F-250 That would stall on decel,Or when braking. The stc fitting was was literally being held on by the rear engine cover. I was stumpped thinking I had a ficm issue, Wiring chafe, Sync , Cmp issue, You name it,No codes. Finally was able to duplicate the issue while monitoring pids and saw how the icp would drop off on decel and eventually drop below 500 psi and cause a stall. I only figured out the problem by watching the Ipr graph to see it compensate by ramping up. I believe the engine would possibly flex foward and cause a slight seperation in the fitting causing the air leak. Was not able to duplicate with air test either. I was only able to duplicate when the engine warmed up, Was puzzled why it would always fire right back up even after a hot soak. Made sense only after seeing the position of the fitting and branch tube after removing the hpop cover. May not be your problem but hope it helps none the less. Good luck.