38ryr88

I was gifted a 2016 F-150 2.7 Eco-boost with a front cover oil leak right before the gasoline line tech went on vacation. The truck has approx. 7800 miles on it. I only work on diesels and had never even opened the hood on one before. We replaced the front cover gasket, oil pan gasket, both valve cover gaskets. I was careful to use the right thickness of silicone on the mating surfaces and let it dry for a full day. Right after we started it up the oil pressure gauge drops out intermittently at idle only. The spec in the WSM only states 30 PSI at 1500 RPM. Put a oil pressure gauge on it and I have 30 PSI at 1500 RPM but only 7-8 at idle when it drops out. I contacted the Hot (NOT)-line and was informed that I have a problem with the oil pressure sensor and not a base engine concern ?? WTF ? I informed them once again that I used a manual oil pressure gauge and only got a reading of 7-8 psi at idle. I was then instructed that there is NO spec for oil pressure at idle ? Hot-line instructed us to replace the oil pump which we did with no change in the symptom. oil level is at the full mark. The oil filter stem and O-rings are intact and properly seated. we of course, used an OEM filter and 5/30 oil as required per the WSM. When we removed the oil pan for the second time, all silicone gasket material seems accounted for on both the engine block and oil pan itself. The o-ring inside the pump is properly seated and the pick up tube is intact and not cracked.We replaced the oil pan during the oil pump replacement just in case. The only other thing I can think of is the oil galley seal on the front of the engine under the front cover which we have not taken back apart yet. Anybody run into this concern before ? Thank you

Thanks for the input. The HPOP was the problem. Thanks again

I read that related thread before I posted. I am concerned that had I got debris in the resivor, I would have a wiped out ipr or at least seen evidence on the screen?

I have an 07 f-250 that was towed in for a lack of power and loss of coolant. Peformed 09-8-3 replacing the egr cooler and heat exchanger. Changed the oil and was backing out of my stall to peform the pvt test and the truck died. Was only able to get the icp to 400 psi no matter how long I cranked it over. I was concerned about debris getting into the HP resivor even though I always completely drain and clean the resivor when I replace the screen in the resivor. Pulled the IPR and found no debris or damage to the screen. Air tested the HP oil system and confirmed the noise change when commanding the duty cycle on the ipr. I could hear a noise which sounded like the stc fitting so I removed the cover and air tested again and found no leak ? Swapped out the ipr with a known good one just in case and no change. Then I noticed air bubbles comming up from the port on top of the oil cooler where the oil supply tube for the turbo mounts ? I figured I messed up an o-ring when I replaced the heat exchanger on the oil cooler so I pulled it back out and took it apart and everything was where it was supposed to be. Found no pinched of chaffed o-rings and made sure the top was completely seated. Contacted hotline and was told to replace the cooler ? I am concerned on the theory of this however as it seems that the air comming out of the port would be on the base oil side as the port is before the HP resivor ? I did also pull both valve covers and verified there were no leaks and also pulled the filter and verified the housing fills when the check valve is depressed while cranking. Could there be a check valve in the pump that is allowing pressure to bleed off even though the ipr is maxed out ? Anything I may be over looking ? Thank you

Had my first 6.7 that was in for a stalling concern. Dtc's were p0606,p06a6,p2138,p0336,p0193,p02e1. If you suspect a v-ref short and find no chafe at the egr cooler gasket, closely inspect the plug at the dpf pressure sensor. I found a tiny chafe on the v-ref wire and the signal return wire. Weird thing is that the chafe point is about 1 inch away from the sensor bracket. I had to remove the tab on the wire harness to to get enough play to ground out the wire and duplicate the stall ? I hope this info may save someone some time as we have yet to recieve our printed EVTM's. It took forever to pull up all the v-ref circuits in the online wiring diagrams.

I was looking for info on why the oil level increases on the 6.4 when oil change intervals are increased or ignored. I have seen several the last few weeks where the cust has not had and oil change in over 8,000 plus miles and I seem to be draining 17-19 quarts of oil from the engine with no evidence or conclusion of fuel dilution.

I have a 08 F-350 6.4 that was towed in the other day for a complaint of a sudden loud noise while driving. Found two of the three starter bolts missing and the starter covered in oil and flopping around. Re-secured it and no-change. I inspected the ring gear and flex plate as best I could thru the inspection hole but found no smoking gun. I thought it sounded like the plunger was hanging up so I replaced the starter and the noise remains. I was thinking that I may have overlooked the flex plate for sure. I lowered the truck down and it sounds like the noise is comming from the HP turbo area. There is a decent size oil leak from the HP drain tube. The pitch of the noise is so bad that I cant even isolate it with a stethascope. I did notice upon insp before repair that cust has gone 15k miles since last oil change. The oil looks like crap but is at the proper level. Vech has codes for HP fuel system of p0003 and p0091. According to oasis repair history there have been no repairs done to the truck that may have led to the starter being removed and or left loose. I was really confused as to why the starter would come loose and have a noise that seems unrelated. Thats as far as I got before the weekend but it has been eating me up thinking I have two weird concerns or totally mis-diaged this thing so far. I was going to check crankshaft end play and also command the vgt to see it the noise changes tomorrow morning. Thank you for any help or suggestions

Was wondering if anyone else has had the luxury of unleaded fuel contaimation in a 6.4 . Was instructed by the hotline to replace all the components in the HP fuel system . I knew there was a problem once I pulled a p0087 and p2291 codes. I have been instructed to replace all injectors, The hp fuel pump, The fuel cooler and both lines from it, The secondary fuel filter housing , Both fuel rails, FRP sensor , Fuel filters, Remove fuel cell for cleaning , Flush fuel from both heads, ETC. I understand the maintaining the fuel system to a pristine condition is impeartive but the cust is up to 5 grand in parts alone, She was able to file a claim with her insurance. Has anyone else had to deal with this ????

I have an 04 F-250 late build that came in for overheat concern with the di-gas cap venting. Vech has 50k miles and had headgaskets,oil/egr coolers done at 37k miles. No Dtc's or external leaks. Cap would release at approx 12 psi so I replaced it. Egr cooler holds vacuum for well over 15 min. ect/eot was max 14 degree F difference on flat ground with little load. Vech is just out of 5/100. Drove vech approx 15 miles to a spot where there was a steady incline so I could put a load on the engine. In less than 3 miles ect spiked to 253 and eot was 240 before I reached the next exit.Cooling fan is operating properly. I figured that the higher ect temp was related to a coolant flow concern since the eot was lower than the ect. I checked the water pump impeller and t-stat and both are in good condition. I was wondering if I am missing something obvious. Havent seen such an high ect reading while peforming 09-8-3 before. Was hoping toget a few opnions here. Thank You

Well it indeed ended up being the fuel pump. Thanks again for the help.

Thank You For the input gentlemen !

I have an 06 F-250 with that came in for a concern that cust stated the vech nearly stalled at a stop light and had no power afterwards so was towed in. Pre checks all pass Except did not test fuel pressure due to stuck turbo. All pids for HP oil system good, Have CM codes for CKP and CMP , Contribution codes for cyl's 1&2 , p0299 and a hard fault P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High. I figured the CKP and CMP codes were related to a stall or near stall. RPM and SYNC Pids were good while cranking, However,I had a hard time starting the vech so I made sure all ficm voltages were good. It did not have the inductive heat stragedy installed so I updated it and re-tested all voltages to confirm ficm was ok. The turbo was sticking so I figured I better peform the coking tsb before attempting to test fuel pressure. Replaced the CHRA due to being corroded and installed new batteries(Cust requested). Started the vech and ran at idle. Fuel pressure was approx 47 psi koeo and 51 psi at idle. The contribution codes are gone but had a bad miss in #5. I did not attempt to run vech at WOT to test fuel pressure because of this. Power balance showed #5 dropping out so followed ppt and I replaced #5 injector and on re-start vech ran for a few seconds and died. Sounded like an obvious lack of fuel. removed secondary filter cap and turned eng to koeo and housing will not fill up. self test has a hard fault for p0232 but after looking up ppt for code it doesnt make sense as I can hear the pump turn on with the ignition. I ran out of time today before I could re-test fuel pressure but I am confident I wont have any. I am sure if I follow the ppt I can figure it out, Was just wondering if I could have shot myself in the foot by doing my diag in the order I did or if I am on the right track ? I have only been doing Diesel work for about a year and havent had any issues pertaining to this code. Thank You for anyhelp or opnions. BTW I know this one will do wonders for our 126 !

Thank you for the input gentlemen ! I abandoned the wsm procedure for the rocker arm removal.I ended up turning the engine over til push rods were at their lowest point then removed them. I will definately pull the engine or cab next time for sure ! Thank you again.

I was wondering if anyone has any "ideas" on an easier way to remove the rocker arms on 6,7,and 8 when doing the branch tube on an 06 F-350 ? Seems no matter how careful I am , I always end up fishing for the ball bearings while trying to remove the arm ! When I re-install them I use grease to hold the ball in the rocker while attempting to slide it onto the push rod but always seem to end up loosing it multiple time before I can get it to seat properly. I know I have the special tool installed properly and the valve bridges seem fully compressed. I know the eng has to be rotated 1 more revloution for #6. It seems like the push rods in cylinders 7 & 8 are still seated too far in the rocker arm to remove as described in the wsm? Is there a way to possibly rotate the eng slightly before of after tdc to get a precious few millimeters for #7 and #8 ? Seems each time I have to do a branch tube , I loose so much time removing and re-installing the rockers that I tell myself I am just going to pull the engine next time ! Dont know if I am doing something wrong or if it is simply a repair that is going to take numerous times to master. Any tips would be greatly appreciated, Thank you .

I had a 05 F-250 That would stall on decel,Or when braking. The stc fitting was was literally being held on by the rear engine cover. I was stumpped thinking I had a ficm issue, Wiring chafe, Sync , Cmp issue, You name it,No codes. Finally was able to duplicate the issue while monitoring pids and saw how the icp would drop off on decel and eventually drop below 500 psi and cause a stall. I only figured out the problem by watching the Ipr graph to see it compensate by ramping up. I believe the engine would possibly flex foward and cause a slight seperation in the fitting causing the air leak. Was not able to duplicate with air test either. I was only able to duplicate when the engine warmed up, Was puzzled why it would always fire right back up even after a hot soak. Made sense only after seeing the position of the fitting and branch tube after removing the hpop cover. May not be your problem but hope it helps none the less. Good luck.

Hoping for some clues here, Have a late build 04 F-250 6.0 That came in for over heating, Also had dtc's for ficm and glow plugs. Replaced oil and egr coolers for tsb and ficm, 1 glow plug and harness. At Idle the truck will have a smooth idle and seems to stumble like it wants to cut out. Its only happens for a fraction of a second them smoothes out. Test drove for 20 miles and ran fine. Of course the battery on the IDS went dead as I was pulling back into the shop and was unable to check pids or make a recording.When I first test drove to duplicate cooling concern, Vech ran fine. I think something happened during the repair,I double checked the injector harness and and wiggle tested the wiring harness to no avail, The screen in the high pressure oil resivor looked good during repair. It definately feels like and Electrical short or surge during the concern. Was wondering if anyone has had a piece of debris from the casting in the oil cooler damage the ipr and cause a concern similiar to this without causing the vech to stall ? BTW the cust told me he was running a aftermarket programmer today when he called to check the status of his vech,Go figure. I thought it would be wiped with new programming on the ficm,pcm,tcm. Thanks for any help !!!

Need to get something off my chest. I rarely do side work since I became Diesel certified as I have no time for it anymore. Trying to keep our dealership going in a time when the Diesel Dept. Seems to be the only steady source of income for our shop makes time to help "Friends" harder to come by. I have a friend who I have known since high school who always seems to have car trouble at the worst time. He and his wife do little to maintain their vechicles even after I constantly remind them to do so. I have always tried my best to take care of their cars whenever they need me. I got a call that her CEL came on in her 97 Explorer OHV. I determined that she had cracked heads (shocker). I tried to explain that the job required substantial time but as always, Would replace them for free if they bought the parts. I know money is tight, However, These people are not living in poverty and find the time to take vacations on a regular basis. I took time on my lunch to round up a parts list and prices and called them that evening.....You would think I asked for a kidney donation!!! After an hour of explaining why complete heads are so expensive and why we dont re-use head bolts, I ended up having to find an aftermarket set online and across the country. I was assured that the vechicle was only to be kept for another six months so I figured that it would'nt be so bad afterall. I spent 3 nights in their garage with only hand tools after my regular 10 hour day getting the thing running. I couldnt even get them to buy a Ford valve grind set so the aftermarket one had a cheap paper lower intake gasket like the early 90's models did. I was double bit as an intake valve would'nt seat properly and had to remove the right head and have a valve job done on it, While the wife always complained"Is it done yet)????Ahead two years and 50k miles later,Another CEL for cyl 2 misfire. I explained to him that plug wires werent ment to last 178,000 mile and needed to be changed. When I told him that I would not be able to swap them out for a week or so due to an illness with my Grandfather, I recieve a phone call last night that I was being "Called Out" on how shitty a friend I was and how I always "Back burner" them. I explained in vain how my responsibilites had changed in the last ten months since I started working on Diesels full time instead of gasoline vechicles.I felt like I was being chewed out by my high school principal ! He ended up telling me to kick rocks and dont contact them again. People, Even friends, Dont really understand the pressure and stress that can accompany being a "New" diesel tech. I have never charged one cent for labor or my time in fixing my friend's cars and It came back to bite me big time. We had shared good times together an as you get older,Good friends are harder to come by. It frustrates me that people expect so much of us because of of our knowledge and we get so little in return. Just wondering how some other people handle issues with their "Friends" cars......

I have an 03 F-550 6.0 117k miles.that was towed in for a crank/no-start.Vech started up all no-start pids were good. Test drove for approx 30 min before I could duplicate. On a mild grade I could feel the eng start to cut out but didnt stall. Icp voltage became erratic dropping below .8 volts each time the eng cut out. Icp pressure remained close to desired for the rpm. Ipr ramped out to max each time. I pulled off the road to turn around and the vech died. Attempted to re-start and vech would crank but no start. Icp pressure would only climb to approx 215 psi with ipr at 84% Icp voltage would still vary betwwen 1.4 volts down to .6 volts cranking. All other no-starts pids were within spec. This is my first early build I have had for a hp oil concern. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

I finally got a recording this morning when the engine stalled. Sure enough, The icp starts dropping off as the rpms drop and then the IPR ramps up to about 84% . I found the stc fitting still attached, But barely. It practically fell off when I removed the pump. Dont know if the motor was flexing foward on decel causing the fitting to seperate from the pump or not. I guess we will all have to form our own opnions on this one. Thanks again for the the help gentlemen !

I have an 05 F-250 that cust. states stalls on decel. I was only able to duplicate the problem twice, Once cold (EOT approx 110) And once with EOT approx 150. Both times was on decel. Tried to make a recording with ids to monitor IPR % but could not duplicate problem again. Was unable to see if IPR was ramping up or not. The vech starts up again with good icp voltage and pressure. Both times on re-start all pids were good. B+, FICM L and V PWR at 12.7 volts. ICP Approx 1.7 volts and over 1000 psi. Torque Converter working properly. Contacted Hotline thinking I may have a FICM sync issue or wiring problem and was told that its most likely the STC fitting. My question is Why would the vech only stall on decel ? Should'nt I have a long crank or no start concern when warm ? I am sure I am looking past something here but just not quite sure what, Thank You for any help.

Did just that today, Took a known good ficm, Re-programmed it to the truck and still only one click and still no start it seems like it wants to. No smoke , No knock. Used the good injector and plugged it into each plug on the injector harness and had power(click and buzz )to each one again, I suspect a lack of maintenance so I am now waiting for maintenance records of some sort. as for Mr. Browning's question , it is a late build as the icp sensor is on the valve cover, finally got some help from another Diesel tech and he said same thing, Either FICM or bad injectors most likely from sludge. I was thinking since I have power to all plugs on the injector harness with either FICM that I can lean towards an injector concern and wait for the cust to supply maint records.

Icp volts 0.3 KOEO, Approx 1.47 volts cranking . icp pressure climbed over 1000 psi cranking, vpwr over 12 volts, rpm signal was good. fuel quality is good, pressure was 50 psi koeo and 53 cranking. oil level was good, looks like oil was just changed. KOEO self test Pass ODDTC's. Had p0266 memory code, cleared and recieved p1000. Cust stated that a independent shop had looked at his truck and told him it has blown headgaskets and to take it to a Dealer. Was very evasive on providing any other info about any other repairs peformed. Last repair listed on oasis was 9-06 for an egr valve.

Very green newbie here, Throw to into the fire right after passing my last Diesel class. I have a 04 F-250 6.0 with 99,971 miles for a crank no-start. Followed all pc/ed hard/no-start sheet checks all pass until #9 koeo injector self-test passed but I noticed only 1 faint click during the test ? Ficm L and V pwr and sync are good. Was confused in which direction to go from here as no specific pin-point test seemed to be lised or my brain was over loaded and I just didnt follow the chart right ? I took a good injector and plugged it into each plug on the injector harness and got a loud click on each one when power was applied ? What may I be over looking ? I tried to keep things simple and followed the diag sheets closely before asking for help. Any opnions or help would be greatly appreciated..