PowerSToKed

replaced internal trans harness yesterday and truck started in park and did not blow tcm fuse this morning. drove and restarted several times. after about the 5th time it blew fuse again still not fixed

no access wires are used and i am replacing internal trans harness now.

Hi everyone. I have a 2013 f250 blowing TCM fuse 46 after it sets overnight. after setting overnight and try to start it blows fuse number 46. Can put in neutral and start replace fuse and all is good can even restart in park without blowing fuse. Sets overnight and blows fuse when trying to start next morning. Have codes p0706, p0707 and p1921. Another tech replaced TCM thinking it was shorting out when cold. did not help. Have unplugged transmission wiring harness and does not blow fuse. Replaced transmission range sensor. Veh worked normally no codes or blown fuses until next morning then same issue. Anyone have this issue?

Don't think delete has anything to do with it. Just pulled right head off 2011 6.7 that has all 8 exhaust valves cracked and didn't even pull head for that reason.

Thanks Chad. I removed head and could not find any cracks in head or bad places on head gasket. Porous heads would explain it. When removed intake/valve cover it looked as though you pored a cup of coolant into number 1 intake port until it ran over into number 2 a little. I had parked it in shop after test drive and applied cap pressure to cooling system and let it set over night so could not have been egr cooler or anything else with coolant only in number 1 cylinder. Thats what I'm thinking anyway. Oh and by the way ALL 8 exhaust valves are cracked some more than once makes me think the exhaust valves in the other head are cracked also.

It is number 1 cylinder and yea I know egr cooler uses primary cooling system. I have taken pipes loose from egr cooler and coolant comes out exhaust manifold when bumping over. Customer has given approval to tear down so head will come off tomorrow and then I can tell whats going on. Thanks

I have a 2011 f350 that hydro locks after it sits 20 minutes or longer after being driven. noticed coolant was low topped it off and road tested coolant is low again primary cooling system. after checking found coolant is leaking into number 1 cylinder. Customer has not approved pulling head off to inspect yet. has anybody had any cracked heads, blown head gaskets or any issues like this ?

Its got 250000+ miles on it, EGR system has been deleted (coolers as well), DOC/DPF has been deleted, it has double O-ring upper and lower hoses, single port de-gas bottle, new thermostats and water pump, new front cab mounts, no visible external coolant leaks. The hoses, reservoir, T-stats, pump and mounts I've installed at different times the past few months. I've put 3 Mishimoto all aluminum radiators in it about 5000-8000 miles apart one after another with the leak being about 4 inches from the drivers side tank and about 4 inches from the top. The customer wanted to try a Alradco all aluminum radiator at this point, about 8000 miles later is now and it is leaking around the same place. I've been using Rotella ELC coolant and at some point after replacing one of the radiators, I checked cooling system pressure - stabilized around 14/15 psi but no major spikes at wot. Thoughts, opinions, advice...

This pump is the older round pump. The newer stc fitting does not apply to this truck. Brad you said you've had this concern before. Just want to be sure before I quote a pump. You have replaced pumps for a cold hard start, start and shut off 3-4 times before it stays running and no other running issues ? Do you know what in the pump causes this ? Just want to understand the problem if possible and not just be a parts re-placer.

2004 6.0 starts up cold and shuts off 3 to 4 times before it stays running. Runs fine with no issues until it sets a couple of days. Customer wanted oil cooler replaced. Noticed reservoir was only half full. Checked high pressure pump supply o-ring did not find any problems. Replaced o-ring and oil cooler. Veh has no problems starting hot and runs fine once started. Beleive reservoir is losing oil any ideas ?

Had a customer/friend bring me a truck 01 F250 7.3 (work truck with 260000 miles on it) he had picked up cheap about 20000 miles ago, since then he's run straight used ATF as fuel filtered through a 15 micron filter than a 3 micron filter and then pumped into the tank. He adds MotorCraft Cetane boost at every fill up (about 1/3 of a bottle) and says it only smokes in cold weather after letting it warm up 10 min or so but smoke clears up within 1/8 of a mile. I've driven the truck - plenty of power no driveabilty issues and for S&G performed a compression test - 350 across the board, he says his EGT's are lower than his 03 7.3 personal truck with 125000 miles on it running diesel and MotorCraft additive... Thoughts and Opinions

Any feedback on this oil, I've never heard of it but my oil distributor is telling me the tech/performance specs are better than Rotella T 15W40 and he's received great feedback on it. Just wondering if anyone has used it and there opinions on it compared to Motorcraft or Rotella. http://www.gannonoils.co.uk/images/Duron_E.pdf

Thanks!!!!! Ordered one this Morning

I can't find this anywhere, the book says "use suitable socket", I know it is 8 sided but do not know the size. A tool # or size/ID would really help if anyone knows it.

I Checked resistance of circuits between the shift motor and 4wd control module per pinpoint test - all check good - test again leads me to shift motor replacement, I load test the same circuits, found one circuit would barely light the bulb. Found one wire, after the connector at the drivers side fender cut with only 3 to 4 strands left connecting the wire, repaired the circuit - all is good

This Vehicle will not shift into 4wd, all fuses and relays are good, its has a P1832 in the GEM module, I have replaced the shift motor at the transfer case (I had to manually shift the transfer case into 4 high to install the new shift motor) after replacing the motor and switching the mode selector to 2wd it shifted into 2wd but will again not shift back into 4 high. I have switched out the 4wd control module with a known good one as well as the PVH solenoid for SnG do to the code. Has anyone ran into this before, any help will be greatly appreciated.

10-4, gotta love Mr & Mrs Eversince

I will definitely try that!!! Thanks for the info

I replaced Head Gaskets, EGR cooler, oil cooler, flushed cooling system, added new coolant and replaced the radiator about a month ago, since then the customer has complained about the air intermittently blowing hot. I have not been able to very the concern but he says it will start blowing hot sometimes at idle or while driving at speeds below 60 mph and come and go, he says it does fine at speeds above 65. I replaced the fan clutch and checked A/C pressures - concern still present. Any ides on what else could cause a concern like this?

Thanks guys, I flushed the radiator, changed the thermostat, water pump was ok and flushed the entire cooling system. added new coolant and concern was resolved

Just wondering if anyone knows any common problems with these engines, truck will run hot if you raise the rpm to around 1500 for a little while, temp returnes to normal at base idle. upper radiator and both heater hoses are hot and lower radiator hose is a bit cooler, fan seems to be pulling plenty of air, no coolant leaks but the coolant looks dirty.

The truck has 560000 miles on it, short block replaced about 45000 miles ago, original top end. Customer had all 8 injectors replaced 4000 miles ago as well as having the turbo cleaned, about 2000 miles ago this squeak noise started, he replaced the alternator, belt tensioner, idlers and belt... noise still present. It only makes noise at operating temp, I took the belt loose and the noise does not go away, the noise is best heard through a 3/4 hose placed between the #5 and #7 injector connectors. I removed the rs valve cover - NPF with valve train, I found the EGR cooler rear bracket that bolts to the rear of the intake broke on both sides, I replaced the straight up pipe and the EGR cooler thinking the flex joint in the up pipe was allowing the broke EGR bracket to squeak - nope noise is still present at operating temp. The customer talked to some other Techs that told him it was probably a bad injector but I have never heard an injector make any kind of squeak noise and the truck runs perfect. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

10-4 buddy, got mouths to feed and bills to pay, 14 hours a day 5 days a week (10 hours at dealer and 4+ at home) and a little less than that on the weekends. gotter cranked but no time today for road test, more info tomorrow, seems to be running better though

I've got a 6.4 250 customer thats been blowing coolant out of the degas bottle for some time now, truck has just over 100000 miles on it, went ahead and performed a DPF/DOC and EGR Deletes per customer (in hopes the EGR coolers were causing coolant to blow out of the degas bottle), coolant loss out of cap now is worst with higher tunes and harder driving, had him replace the degas bottle cap - no change, before the deletes and the tuner the truck was stock and the concern was still present, customer states he thinks the man he bought the truck from ran a superchip at one time - maybe damage was done then? I guess my question is has anyone seen any head gaskets issues with 6.4's, I've been working on these trucks since they hit the lots in 07 and have never seen or heard of any "head gasket" issues.

The customer had to "scrape" up the $ for the 4 already installed, I strongly recomended all 8 but could not guarntee the fix, I will plug it up today and put some miles on it, does anyone have any other ideas about this one other than the other four injectors being that it will start and run after being plugged in and the glow plug system is in tip top shape