CISCO

replaced master cylinder,hydraulic control unit,performed bleeding process with ids,then manual bled hcu & all 4 calipers still no fixy. while driving vehicle brakes fine and when you come to a stop(while pushing on the pedal)it goes down in increments of 2 until it reaches the floor & somtimes it just goes down all the way slowly. it seems to work fine if you push on pedal hard while going anything above 1 mph. need help thank you.

From what I have read & heard IDM'S are interchangeable,but the black IDM is better than the silver IDM. Has something to do with the black IDM having more voltage than the silver IDM or something like that.

Seen another tech chasing a turbo related code & after replacing and adjusting wastegate solenoid, he removed removed wastegate solenoid from a known good truck and fixed concern.

ALSO HEARD THAT DRAINING 1 QUART OF OIL AND POURING 1 QUART OF CLEAN DIESEL FUEL IN THE CRANKCASE;RUNNING IT FOR ABOUT 20 MILES. THEN PERFORMING AN LUBE OIL & FILTER CHANGE.

I LIKE TO USE FORD CARBURATOR SPRAY CLEANER PM-2

Im looking to buy the best and inexpensive mig welder to do broken exhaust manifold broken studs. I was thinking craftsman,harbor freight; just looking for some good advice since I dont know where to begin. Thanks you.

After replacing camshaft and all roller lifters I used the airlift to check for leaks and refill/replaced leaking radiator.BTW I removed the whole crankshaft and was told I could of used 2 straps and lift on both ends of the crankshaft it was to late for the tip.So drove out my stall and starting leaking from upper radiator revised hose and then after I pulled in my stall and as I was draining the the radiator the lower passenger radiator hose started to leak.Replaced both hoses and im done. 10 f550 85,000 kicked may ass.

Compression on #3 200-300(sometimes it stays at 200 for a couple rotation before it goes to 300psi.Intermittently.Removed cyl.#3 lifter,it was alot of plat up & down and was not round and smooth like glass anymore,it was more like a square roller,pitted.I examined camshaft and it looked horribly pitted and there was a spot were it actually looked like it mushroomed to the side.This is my first camshaft removal if thats what i have to do.How should I submitt this to ford for assistance or prior approval?BTW I did find a little bit of metal in the oil filter.Please any hints or tips would be greatly appreciated.Thank in advance.

Hotline said that metal in the fuel cooler is normal and that there was no need to continue with the high pressure manifold debris test;and to just put a high pressure pump on it.

There is no rust in the secondary fuel filter housing nor in both the fuel cooler bolts(high & low side).I do have code P0088.It's not about how hard it is to pull or not to pull a valve cover. I just feel that my findings will confirm metal eye lashes in the high pressure fuel rails with the results I have stated & was just wondering if anybody else had ran across the same thing. I will keep you guys posted.

Question.I know ford says that if you see metal in the secondary fuel filter housing is okay cuz that means the secondary fuel filter is doing its job,but checked for fuel debris at low side fuel test port and there was plenty or metal shavings,I also checked the high side on the fuel cooler and againg there was plenty of metal shaving beyon a shadow of a doubt,so doesnt this mean that there is also metal in the fuel rails?? I cant imagine there being no metal in the fuel rails if I got it in the:secondary housing,low side & high side in the fuel cooler, so when I check for metal debris in the high pressure manifolds I cant help but to expect metal debris.Do you guys agree with me? Fill me in on some input please. Thanx in advance

I had read this on Bruce Amacker's 6.4 tips & tricks book about 3 years ago but didn't think it was going to be a reality.

No acutally that was one of the original complaints along with the primary radiator leaking.It was handed down to me by another tech to replace the primary radiator.I even double checked with the advisor if the transmission was overheating after I touched it and he said no.So it trans was overheating along with primary radiator leaking.

Well I put the tranmission cooler and fixed the problem.When I got is the cooler the first thing I did was blow through it and I was actually able to blow through the transmission oil cooler with out turning red in the face. Transmission temp was now 12 degrees cooler that eot roughly.I banged the trans cooler to see what would come out and found small white powdery/crushable round pellets(jus a couple of them). then I looked inside the cooler and can see like 2 or 3 on both sides of the trans cooler.I have now idea what is but it resembles dried diesel exhaust fluid when dried on fuel filter from the job aid.Thanx everybody for the input and hope this helps somebody.

Since all the pids were all good i was leaning towards trans cooler.Hotline had me do trans fluid delivery test which i new was not going to help.Plain and simple the trans fluid lines going in and out of the trans cooler were extremely hot and so was the trans cooler itself. The coolant hoses going to the trans cooler in and out were luke warm.I removed the trans cooler and could not blow through trans cooler at all nor with an air gun. Got trans cooler coming tomorrow.

I have a 11 6.7 trans temp going to 230 while eot@195 ect1@190, ect2@ 120 after i removing both radiators to replace the primay radiator. I vacuum filled both radiators @ over 25 inches of vacuum. I replaced the transmission temp sensor and have same problem. Anybody seen this before? need some help. Thanx in advanced. I quess i will vacuum fill the secondary radiator again and see what happens.

by the way i have another ambulance with an oil pan gasket leak but they are not complaining about that. it originally came for a rear differential problem addressed by another tech and i now have it for a very long hard start and smokes slightly and smells like diesel slightly as well. icp is 3000,koeo pids and ebp is out of spec at 20psi with engine off and produces 8 mgp boost pressure(but it seemed to have enough power for me and it being an ambulance) @ wot once you get it started. seems to have a brand new idm, buzz test are all very weak and with no blow by. just started checking it today for a couple of hour. codes are: buzz test-p1668,koer p0476,and continous p1670. customer wants the bill to be higher than $5000.00 so he can get tax deductible. thank in advanced.

i finished the job in 2 weeks(12 hours a day)now what if the bolts were to snap flush with the head. what is the best way to remove the broken exhaust manifold in the head. do you replace the head,drill,or what. i once tried removing an exhaust stud broken flush with the head and tried reverse drilling and an extractor and the extractor broke. i was off for the next couple of days i never found out how they got it out. i think this was a gas engine but cant remember its been 2 years now. just want to get prepared for it next time.

cysqokid@hotmail.com

HERE ARE THE PICTURE OF THE EXHAUT MANAFOLDS

Well I have tooking the manifold by heating the head and not the bolt and they came right out.Sorry I tried to post the pictures my self by didnt work. I'll try again sometime this week; really busy this week.

Your funny,actually im from Glendale,California and I dont care about the Royals. I'm just trying to get this Diesel Buisness down packed. I need to update my info status cause I am in indianapolis,Indiana now.Love this website and the training on the 6.0 & 6.4 I bought from you @ turbotraining.com and now I need to get the 7.3 as soon as I can get out of the hole I'm in right now.

Thanks again for the detail response & excuse my writing skills. I will send you the pictures of the exhaust manifold tomorrow & I will try to send you some today. Service writer has already upsold,front cover,front seal,rear seal,exhaust manifolds.I'm still not sure if the front crank seal is leaking,guess I'll find out tommorrow.I'll keep you posted as I go.Thanks you. Cisco.

I REMOVED THE ENGINE WITH FORD'S ADAPTORS AND IT SITTING ON JACKSTANDS(TOOK ME 3 DAYS).WISH I KNEW HOW TO POST PICTURES.I WILL TRY TORCHING THE BASE OF THE EXHAUST BOLTS WHERE THEY GO INTO THE HEAD. IF THAT DOESN'T WORK I WILL BLOW THE HEADS OFF WITH A TORCH LIKE BRUCE AMACKER SAID. THANK YOU SO MUCH.

MY FIRST ENGINE REMOVAL JOB.ORIGINALLY CAME FOR OIL PAN & DIPSTICK LEAKING.HOW DO YOU REMOVE EXHAUST MANIFOLD BOLTS(ONE OF THE REAR BOLTS IS BROKEN OFF) SAFELY?THEY LOOK PRETTY RUSTY AND IM SCARED OF BREAKING THEM OFF. ANY TIPS ARE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THANX IN ADVANCED.