Matt Saunoras

+2

This machine shop has never done us wrong BUT they also don't do a lot of diesel heads. Bruce I honestly don't know if they machined them valves in or out. I didn't know it was possible to do it with the valves in. From what I've read the single most critical measurement after milling 6.0 heads is valve recession. The spec is .013" to .027" if my memory serves correct(not listed in the WSM). If the valves aren't recessed enough there will be piston to valve contact and you're not exactly safe on the shallow side of the spec. .020" is good for a diesel head. Got everything back together and the truck started this afternoon. I had one hell of a time getting it to fire even with good ICP. I can only figure it wasn't getting fuel in the heads because once it started everything was fine

These heads look amazing (I would marry them if I could). Milled, cleaned, pressure checked all for $165 I hope it all works out in the end. There's always a what if when you do something the WSM tells you not to. If it does though you can bet it wont be the last set of 6.0 heads that get sent down. I'm going to get a set of studs to keep around.

Got the short block bolted in today, headgaskets showed up too. Working on putting in the exhaust valves now. Very straight forward install, there's a 2009 6.7 tool kit with everything you need except the pivot bar. I found a bar in a 84 or 85 probe tool kit that works great. There are way more cracked exhaust valves than I initially saw. This shortblock wouldn't have made it out of warranty.

Also, I did send the heads out this morning and I'll be getting them back tomorrow in the AM. They wacked .007" off the deck. I'm pretty excited to see how they turn out. The machine shop is confident everything will work out fine, in the end everything was still in spec. If they look good I'll post pics

now that you guys mention it I do recall a few bolts that didn't feel too tight. Not loose, but perhaps not as tight as the others. Standing in the engine bay with a 3/4" breaker bar may not be an accurate way to determine tightness but whatever. That's exactly what I have. The ridge is .003" deep, way more than enough to catch a nail on. Jim, should I reconsider keeping studs around? Now lets say I do have studs, would I only offer these to my customers or lets say our other guy gets a headgaskets job should I offer them up for him to sell also? Would it be unfair if I didn't? Currently I'm the only one whos ever installed studs and I'm not sure if the topic would come up.

I don't make practice of offering customers headstuds unless they request it. The problem becomes parts availability. You tell the customer about head studs and from that point on they're usually a week away. I suppose I could keep some in stock but honestly I don't like having money tied up in parts when I am not a parts department. You wouldn't believe the stuff I've aquired over the years that I keep "in stock" because parts won't keep it around.

The deformation on the head is .003 deep. It's like a veritcal ridge where the fire ring seals. I've cleaned up quite a few 6.0 heads and never once thought one looked bad enough not to go back on the truck. These ones are different though, I just don't feel right about them. I've been reading up on the subject a little bit and it seems the general consensus is .008" is max. Anything less than .006" is going to be fine. After that you start getting into valve recession problems. The seats would need ground deeper and the stems shortened up. I'm going to call the machine shop on monday. Don't know if they'll touch diesel heads but it's worth a shot.

Pulled the heads off an 120k 05 F-550 today. I was pretty surprised to find the truck had definitely had headgaskets done atleast once before. The whiz wheel marks told that story. The airtool marks aren't deep and they cleaned up with scotchbrite so I'm not even a little concerned with them. What I'm wondering is why these things failed if they were done atleast once before. The heads are fine as per ford specs but there are recessed spots in the fire ring area that definitely correspond with the failed areas on the gaskets. Obviously the 6.0 has been out a while and everyone has these things figured out. Are you guys putting a lot of stock in what the WSM says is a good head? This truck isn't overboosting and I put coolers in it and cleaned the turbo about 20k miles ago. It just recently started blowing coolant again. Is it common for a loaded down 6.0 to have multiple sets of headgaskets in it's life? Also,has anyone ever had a set of 6.0 heads cut down, just enough to clean up the surface? I'm aware ford states it can't be done and the aftermarket says they should all be machined flat whether they look like they need it or not. It's obvious to me that when you get a reman head from ford it has been machined. Considering the quality of the cores being returned you'd wonder how any heads could possibly be remanufactured.

That's why I called. I've seen it done before when 6.4 shortblocks were unavailable. I'm not sure why they won't give me a long block. I stressed greatly that I need to have this truck done next week. I also asked hotline about what to identify as the cause of failure for a locked up engine. The engineer seriously told me not to even worry about getting it paid for. They know there's a problem and just main bearing failure is enough.

So thought I'd pick up a quick customer pay 6.0 coolant leak while I wait for a 6.7 shortblock. No deal, doing cab on head gaskets right behind the one with the cab off. Called hotline on my 6.7 today too, trying to let them let me have a long block, nope. Each headgasket is coming in from a seperate dealer out of state. Shortblock should be in Monday. Oh and I planned on taking off 2 weeks from now for trout season.

Doing a 6.7 too. Locked up tighter than hell. Removed the belt, no turn, removed the high pressure pump, no turn. Removed the heads, no turn. Removed the main caps! no turn. I've got 3 mains and who knows how many rod bearings that are spun. Oh yeah and it's an early 11 that has some cracked exhaust valves that didn't quite crack enough to make it to the TSB level. I could have only hoped I could just get the screwing over with and toss a long block at it. ALSO head gaskets are on back order. It's getting 16 exhaust valves whether it needs them all or not. If they want to argue I will drive to dearborn and shove a cracked valve down someones throat.

Alright, digging this one back out. Getting more and more accustomed to 6.0 diag and have run across a few different concerns caused by IPRs Most of what I'm finding is dirt coming from the high pressure oil reservoir finding its way into the IPR. Never had one of my cooler jobs come back though so I think it's an avoidable situation. This is one from this week. P2290 in memory, noticable rough idle and rough running, feels like a misfire but not flagging an individual cylinder. Truck starts fine hot or cold. Gave it a couple hard throttle snaps to see if I could dislodge the STC with no avail. Noticed IPR ramped up to 85% while the truck was idling but ICP stayed normal. Someone pretty recently put coolers on this truck, surely dirt in the reservoir. This one was a no start, no ICP. Air check proved pretty quickly that the IPR was sticking. This is another truck with an unknown history Another no start towed in but oddly enough started fine the next day. Went in looking for the STC again and found the screen blown in and seal torn.

I'm getting sent to buffalo in the end of May for the newest course. No more pgh training center which was closer to my house than work

got it out, first try today. All it took was one more weld and a dull red glow on the manifold thanks to the torches.

they better count on making these filters a hair smaller or this crap isn't gonna fly

Now I'm screwed. I've been good with broken bolts but this fucker is small and TIGHT. I've already broken 2 good welds off taking a small piece of the bolt with it each time, it's quite recessed now. I was working it back and forth, lost concentration for a split second and snap. What a bunch of shit

Seriously I just ran into this again today. I can't believe anyone was stupid enough to do this

Yeah I took it last weekend. Got on the waiting list for the classroom too. Who knows how long that will be

Yeah it's slightly shorter than our 9.75 gauge tube so my guess is it's about the right length. I'm sure the rust will clean right off, it's actually not too bad, just the spots above the numbers is all like it was laying down for a while. Thanks Jim

Bought a pinion depth gauge tube from an ebay seller that was listed as 205-D038. It's the tube for a 10.5 and dana 80 which is absent from our shop. This is what showed up. This is what the seller included with the tube I can't find any info about this tool number. The diameter is correct but I don't have a 10.5 carrier laying around to check the length. Does anyone know anything about this tool number, is there anything else this tube could be? edit - I just noticed it is lightly stamped 02-585-6 also

These guys were out of town so I slammed a turbo in this thing, put some brakes on and let it roll. Someone left a small pocket screwdriver laying down behind the turbo in the valley. All I found was a blade, magnet and one melted glob of plastic with a metal pocket clip sticking out. Also noticed that the oil feed tube and coolant feed tube both had melted the plastic retainers still attached.

Well I never thought much of it until today. Took a 2011 F-550 for a spin thats making some pretty obvious turbo noises. 145k on the clock, one of the higher mileage 6.7s I've seen. This thing is pretty heavy, crosses the scales at 16k lbs all day long, probably its entire life. Then I get to talk to the customer and get the whole story from oasis. This truck has had 5 turbos and 2 engines. (4 turbos and 1 engine under warranty). The most recent engine and turbo were only 20k miles ago. Normal maintenance from what I can tell and only 3300 hours on it. This thing is on the road constantly. I've gotta put front rotors, calipers and pads on it too, caliper pistons and rotors are cracked from heat

6.0 injectors are cake to reseal, I've never left them in before. It's not worth the risk. I have left the glowplugs in but only as a last resort. It's always a good idea to take a hard look at the tips when you're done, you can tell pretty easily if one accidentally got hit. Also, back on topic. You mentioned aftermarket turbo, is it a non-VGT turbo? If so those things typically have a ton of lag. The 6.0 doesn't have enough displacement to get a big turbo moving quickly

Dang it thanks guys for warning me about the s110 pinion nut. 250 ft/lb torque wrench......check 1000ft/lb torque multiplier......check 1 3/4" socket......check wait...now what the hell do I hold the flange with!!! Not my best work but it's all I had left for brain power today.