Matt Saunoras

Electrodiesel, the original seller on ebay, has these tools relisted for $95. Nothing like a little competition to drive the price down.

The anonymous part is the problem. Too many guys hide behind their managers. I prefer to talk to the customer myself and let service personnel handle the numbers. I work in a shop that up until 3 years ago never had a truck customer and never even sold an e-series 6.0. You pretty much have to win over new customers and it doesn't work with flat rate repairs. Now I know 4 diesel techs at the areas largest dealership and they are so damn spoiled it's not even funny. All but one has the mentality that they own their customers. It's really a shame.

The shop has been pretty good about covering my accidents. The layout of our shop/lot is absolutely stupid, it's pretty obvious that no one ever worked on trucks anywhere near this building. Naturally I've been known to occassionally (unintentionally) run customers vehicles into various obstactles around the shop and outside. The first time I paid for half of the repair ($400) and it came out of my pay $50 a week. The next 2 or 3 times it happened I didn't pay for anything. It was implied that I would exit promptly if it was made otherwise. Not trying to be a jerk but I've had enough. I've never killed an engine but that thought graces my mind every time I have a 6.0 intake manifold off, especially econolines. It seems like an unseen nut laying beside the manifold could easily drop into a runner.

Ahh okay then, I've only seen 1 or 2 with the black insert, never looked behinid it. Thanks!

anyone ever figure out where to put that extra o-ring? Of the 3 there it would be the bottom one

wow, you are the man!

Had a interesting one today. 06 F-250 6.0 282k on the clock. No start no base oil pressure. Immediately thinking needle bearings in the low pump. Pulled the regulator cap off and found the regulator stuck up in the bore. Fished around for a while and finally got it to come out. It had a 3/4" piece of thin curved wire lodged in it. The only thing I could come up with is that nickel sized spring clip in the female end of an STC fitting. Put the reg back in, still no pressure but I'm gurgling air out of the oil filter base now. Pulled the gerotor out and it looked fine at first glance but when you really stare at it it looks like someone took a wire wheel to the inside teeth. I don't know if it was a combination of that little clip grinding away or just the poor mesh of the gears after it passed through the pump. Front cover was fine, pump cover needed replaced along with a new set of gears. It fired right up much to my surprise. Who knows how long that little spring clip was floating around in the engine and finally made its way into the oil pump. The customer knows that may not be all that's wrong at this point but he just wants it running for now.

yum

don't try it on a 6.4, twist that cab enough and a tank is gonna fly off the rad

Werner AP-20, runs about $45 at home depot. For years before this I was using a milk crate and guessing where my feet were going to land. Occassionally catching the edge and ending up on my ass. Not fun. This little platform has been the best thing I've bought in a long time. Lately it never leaves the front of my stall

You had to have repairs done under warranty and then replaced those parts again once the truck was out of warranty but still under 6 years or 135k miles. Then they'll reimburse you a certain amount depending on the repair The parts eligible would be both coolers, fuel injectors, egr valve and turbocharger. This all has to heard in court on May 22. I'm going to request to be excluded. None of this bs remotely applies to me.

I'll be the first to say update your FICM calibration to the latest and greatest. I used to have the latest calibration on my truck and never could figure out which injectors had stiction issues. It would romp for a second then clear up on a cold start, just quick enough that power balance couldn't catch it. Then I got stupid and figured out how to roll back to the original cal it came from out of the factory. Guess what? No inductive heat on the old ficm calibration. Now I've got a dead #5 cylinder for atleast 10 seconds on a cold start PLUS two others on that bank that are low. It's amazing what an inductive heat strategy will do, it really does work wonders.

I want my own IDS but I am dumb and just keep buying welders. Honestly if I can't buy an IDS then I'm not buying anything. I've used a few other scantools in the past and none of them compare

Wow that is truely awesome. I dream of a garage like that

I got a class action lawsuit notice in the mail for my truck. I didn't really read it too hard but the court date is coming up in May and we'll know more about what the outcome is after that.

I have the adapeter at at work. I'll grab it monday and send them to you

haha I know. I thought it would stop people from arguing with me but that didn't work so I pick my battles wisely. I stay out of the oil cooler and headgasket threads. There is some interesting things that go on, though. There was a guy that stripped out the oil pressure sending unit in the oil cooler cover and actually machined an adapter with longer threads to screw further in. The threads are long enough to catch good ones down in the cover and the sender screws into the adapter. I asked him to send me one and sure enough he did. It's a nice looking piece

yeah that's me. Those guys drive me crazy, there's a handful of know-it-alls and I'm just trying to fit in.

Honestly I can't imagine it takes longer than an hour. As long as the compressor and turbine wheel aren't so ground off that you can't grab it with anything they should come apart with minimal effort. The turbine is 7/8" and the compressor is 9/16". Both turbos I took apart were easily loosened and disassmebled. I have enough good parts for a turbo and I'm going to try it on once funds loosen up a little bit. I don't have $125 to toss down on a seal kit right now Garrett 740659-0010 is the seal kit part number for 04+ turbos

ahh so you're the big angry hillbilly. We may have chatted it up before on the org I'd be interested to know what my results would be. I think I create more stress for myself than need be.

05 F-250 212k, as far as I can tell the thing is almost all original except the ficm and it had an STC metal bracket. Needed its second ficm, coolers, intake was plugged shut, and a #5 injector. Just for the hell of it I pulled the standpipes/dummies out of both sides and they're perfect. Cracked the turbo open, not a hint of rust. Red tube on the cooler. I put a one piece pump fitting in it anyways, and some dummy plugs, over repaired it, I know

no broken bolts yet

I've been servicing a fleet of 9 here and suprisingly haven't found too much hacked up. Lucky for me the tech doesn't get too far into these things or I can imagine.

I did eventually find out that that number is infact the 2004.25+ pedestal. I don't know exactly what is included in the a-brace kit but I doubt it matters now that all these trucks are out of warranty

any particular reason for changing these o-rings? Are you just doing it for preventative maint? I have noticed that some oil rail nipples are a little loose and some are tight. None ever presented a problem yet so I never worried about it. I just try and line the nipples up straight before setting the rail back on.