Matt Saunoras

Well damn if I didn't find it today, luckily it confirms why I didn't find any metal in the fuel. The VCV was half unplugged from the gasket. The blue zip tie was installed but the connector wasnt locked prior to install. Never showed up during the resistance check of the 4-pin connector and it never set any codes other than P2291. I had 2.8 ohms of resistance until I wiggled the connector and it would go open.  Perhaps this is why sometimes I would get good flow from the high pressure bleed tool and sometimes not.  Also it almost starting makes sense too if the pump wasn't getting good volume. 
 
First pic is how I found the connector which would still show up with good resistance.  Second pic was light tug on the connector, ziptie still intact. 
 
Honestly after all this work it's still getting a pump.  The PCV and VCV on the new pump have some kind of extra locking tab on the connector.  The old pump doesn't have that.  I'll take pics on Monday.  My new pump came damaged in the box so I couldn't even get started back together today. 

That front cover oil seal is a design catastrophe. The one I did was torn from the factory and when I realized it was needed I had to wait weeks for it to come off backorder

If you read the API article they make it sound like CK-4 is the greatest oil ever.  Wonder what the hell is going on? 

If you didn't figure it out you can change the speed controller without fully removing the heater box. You still have to loosen it but the last one I did I was able to shim the box out far enough to access the controller without draining the coolant or evacuating the a/c
 
I've done about a half dozen of these now.  Getting the heater box nuts on a diesel is a little interesting. 

Found an amp clamp that works off my voltmeter leads. Also located the ambulance wiring behind a panel in the back, what a rats nest. Several things are still powered all the time but nothing was drawing any measurable amperage. Rather than a kill switch there are 2 large automatic shutoff solenoids. Both of those are working fine.

So I went back to where I should have went in the very beginning. Took the air cleaner off, reached my hand down to unplug the primary alt and my arm rubbed the secondary alt. Holy shit it's warm.

Unbolted the positive from it and my draw dropped right down to .042 amps. Put a new secondary alt in it and it's fine. Unfortunately because this is an ambulance I let it cloud my normal thought process. Thanks for all your input guys, I really appreciate it.

Found the source of the brownish green material on the IPR. Started disassembling the pump and there's a hex plug on the bottom. This was the one in this pump.

New PCM + parameter reset and we're good to go. Time to drive cycle this thing and turn it loose.
 
edit - 24 miles and not a code in sight.
 
One more thing, to minimize the chance of any problems while installing the new PCM start your session as normal, then key off, put your new pcm in, key on and PMI with as-built.  You don't want IDS sucking any bad info out of the old PCM.  This was a tip I read off someone else's similar hotline contact.
 
I also found that my new PCM came nearly pre-programmed.  I actually key'd on and everything was fine, I went in and PMI'd it anyways but it didn't actually program it, basically just configured it for the vehicle.  I went in to program my Engine Serial Number because it requested it for 14,000lb and over vehicles.....the ESN was already programmed correctly.
 
The parameter reset was needed to clear a P161A code but other than that no problems.