lmorris

Most are unsold units they went to move to clear snow. And a few customers calling in to ask why. No codes.

Had a set of heads off of a 6L waiting for Dieselcare approval. Normally I would spray the block and cylinders with penetrating fluid to stop any rust build up. In may haste I grabbed a can of Fluid film and started spraying. Oh well, no harm done, so out goes the truck. 2 weeks later I finally get to put the heads back on. As I wiped all the fluid film off the head gasket surface of the block, I found out that the fluid film had dissolved all the crap I would normally have to scrap off.

We are finding that the last batch of trucks delivered to us will not start below certain temps, where as the first batch delivered will. Is this a programming strategy?

hopefully they wrote something in there for more reliable water in fuel detection.

From what I learned at the 6.7L class, the 6.4L has a good water in fuel detection, but it take 6 key cycles to turn the light/message on. When you have a truck that hardly gets shut off you have a recipe for disaster. By the time the light is on the damage is done.

We tell customers to drain it once a week. We also tell them that if they don't, certain failures will not be covered by Ford and it is nearly impossible to hide the cause of the damage.

^^^^Usually when I see the EGR valve all clogged up I always check for EGR cooler leak because in my experience more than likely the EGR cooler is leaking and causing the EGR valve to clog.

Typically a leaking EGR cooler will clean the EGR valve and the intake.

And if you think about it, according to the engineers, the oil cooler in-efficency contributes to both EGR valve coking and EGR cooler failure. So you can have both happening if you catch the leak before it gets serious enough.

Most times the truck we get in have a full blown leak and it cleans out the EGR valve, plus side is the customer doesn't have to pay for a new valve.

They may have figured out when the crankshaft counterweights hit the oil/fuel and how much it slows down the crankshaft. Or possibly EOT compared to ECT. Does fuel cool faster than oil?

Can this update be applied to any 6.4L? Or is it VIN dependant?

The tech's truck would hit 22F differential, well over the 15F spec from Ford. He got rid of because it was off warranty. The oil cooler wasn't done when we did his EGR cooler. Was done before the TSB came out with the true cause of failure. . He was a little pissed.

On one customers truck I was going through the coked EGR valve process and roadtested for oil cooler restriction. This one was hitting 35F differential and stayed there, never dropped. I told him he needs to do his oil cooler to fix the EGR coking and prevent the EGR cooler from blowing.

He says not right now, I will take my chances. Day after he gets towed in. EGR cooler blew on his way home.

PPT AX4. 10 F diff to set the code. I may be reading this wrong but we tested it on one of our tech's trucks that was setting this code. At the 10F difference it set the code, every time. Makes no sense to me. Or I may be interpreting this wrong. A lot of EGR cooler failures that come in do not set this code. But they may not have up to date calibrations either.

ECT needs to be over 190F to properly test. You need to drive at WOT and acheive full boost. Then let off and cruise at a steady speed. Typically the highest differential will occur during the cruise after the WOT/ full boost accelleration. Anything over 15F is considered bad. Typically they will hold around 8 to 10, If it goes over 12 I consider it bad, odly so does Ford because if you have the latest calibration it will set a code at 10 F.

Originally Posted By: 64nomore

Wish i had a vgt test

On the flip side, how times have you guys run this test, only to return a PASS result, but still have issues with the unison ring or turbo itself?

You have to really look at the very first 2 and last 2 steps closely. I actually ran the test on one with a new turbo, then compared it to a bad one and you can see the difference.

On the topic off the concern at hand, I would typically go after the VGT on this one. I was told that if the surging goes away when taking comand of VGT and EBP settles down the VGT is bad. If it still surges when doing this then go after ICP. Yours sounds very much like a VGT issue. One other thing to look for is if it puffs black at the same cycle as the surge. The last one I had with a bad VGT did this.

Excellent comparison Mr. Warman! I love reading your explanations of things!!

I think Jim needs to spend more time playing with his grandkids and less time making the rest of us look bad....

Had one here that leaked after draining it. Turns out the oring on the end of the valve stuck in the housing then became dislodged when the valve was closed.

Is it ICP desired? Been awhile since I had to hook up to a 7.3L but the newer powerstrokes have it. Pced shows PSI and volts only.

Now a ford with a cummins engine THAT would be an awsome truck.

Seen it. There is a place somewhere in Montana that would swap in Cummins into F-series chasis. We would buy the used engines off them when we needed them.

To my knowledge there is nothing in the oil filter housing/base to stop oil flow to the filter. Taking apart the oil cooler won't help you either.

Typically any debris in the LPOP comes from the top oring on an injector, a lifter roller needle or the fitting on the HPOP.

If the LPOP doesn't look to bad, try to clean and re-install the regulator and see what happens.

If you still have no oil to the filter you may need to tear this down and find out where the debris came from. You may want to check all the rockers while cranking, lifter failures causing low oil pressure are not uncommon.

Try the trip/reset button. If that doesn't work try: Key off, hold trip/reset, then turn key to run, cycle through the readings, it may be in there. If both fail then it doesn't have it.

The process has 130 steps. 4 run throughs with simple green. 1 with VC9. Then numourous fresh water flushings. Time will tell if we got it all out. Funny thing is this guy was such a prick about the fact that it took time to get the parts and repair the truck, that he is no longer welcome at our dealership.

Had the tips of me fingers rattled by fan blades a few times back in the day of adjusting chokes. Noobie oops.

Worse thing was when I slipped climbing out of a truck box. Landed on my elbow and fractured the bone. Was off for 3 months on that one.

I beleive there is no direct path between those passages under the turbo. There is a valley between the two that allow the fluid to drain out into the valley.

But i may be wrong

Edit: Confirmed oil cooler leaking. With cooler eliminated from cooling system, I was able to run the engine till oil started coming out of the coolant ports.

Is this a new 6.7?

Yes it is. Thankfully the oil cooler requires minimal disassembly to remove.

Anyone know of a way to actually leak test an oil cooler to verify it has failed? Kind of like we would do with EGR coolers?

Edit: Came up with a way to test it. Going to drain the cooling system, remove the coolant hoses from the oil cooler, top up the engine oil and run the engine to see if oil comes out where the coolant is supposed to go in.

Will post results.

Thats right, you read it correctly. 51000 KM and the main cooling system is full of oil. Assuming oil cooler(have request into hotline), has anyone seen others like this?

Nowhere in any literature (that I'm aware of) have they actually come out and said an engines warranty lasts for "xxxx" hrs. Untill they do I dont think it should even be a consideration for warrantee denial. (unless its a lack of maintenance vs hrs concern.)

To add to that, the hour vs. maintenance won't apply to oil leaks, just running concerns.

Take a shot in the dark.

 

That's a shot in the arm....

 

That's shot to shit....

 

He's a real hot shot.

 

I'll take a shot at it.

 

Like shooting fish in a barrel.

 

 

Are you quoting your friend Jim?

The van has 250,000 km on it. Further inspection of all the spark plugs reveals the front plug on the left bank and rear plug on the right bank also had signs of coolant on them. This is the first time I saw this on my van, but then it hit me, Way back in the days before I was all diesel all the time I used to do intake gaskets for this same issue. Threw a set of plugs at it for now and will do intake gaskets next weekend.

I will also look for the hole in the valve cover mentioned.

Thanks guys.

Valve cover turned out to be fine, no hole. The culprit was the intake gaskets. The bottom portion of all the intake port seals were not sealing and sucking in oil. Suprisingly though was the fact that the coolant ports were fine. And I got 250,000 km before having to do them.