HGM

I'm a little late here, but I'm doing a little reading on past posts... I thought I'd give you a reasoning for the gap measurement.. If you look at the procedure and use the tool as recomended. The tool fits in that gap. If the turbo's are flush, the tool wont fit. The sealing is not done at the gap, there's no gasket there. You'll notice its at the sealing doughnut inside the turbo. A mere technicality if you dont use the tool. HOWEVER, the gap is also an indicator of the turbo spacing required to make sure the oil drainback tube is orriented properly when it is reinstalled on the dowel pins.. BTW, the early turbo's had spacers to make sure you couldnt tighten them too closely.

In short, you dont know what you're getting... It could be soybean-chicken fat(used or fresh).. Too many variables. May be a fair option in the future, but we arent there yet. Filtration is apparently one of the biggest issues with it right now. What works for one type may not work for another.. I havent found much good info on it either, but that about sums up what I do know..

I believe another key to this story is the bio diesel.. Not saying I buy into the hydrolock condition from a regen though. With any fuel and potentially more so with bio, it could be an incomplete burn leaving more unburnt fuel behind. With more fuel left behind, you would have more of a cylinder wash potential along with DPF clogging. With the DPF becoming more restricted causing regen (overfuel), poor fuel burn and cyl wash causing blowby and oil level growth, who knows how bad things could get.. I think the guy was reaching a bit with this diag, but, I dont know... Bottom line, these guys need to start running the trucks with design in mind. They have been tested with USLD and DPF's, the guys who leave well enough alone and just drive the trucks as designed will have much less trouble out of them.. No different than the 6.0L.. Just thought Id throw in my $.02

Jim, I understand that there were no injectors on record (or customer recolection) installed in the past, but these bolts just dont break and hang out in the pan by accident.. What I mean is, if it was a factory screw up, it should be a complete bolt.. I'm confused too.... Now, did you check the fuel pressure? Thats what causes that bolt to break in the first place.. Just a thought.. As long as the pressure is good, it will probably be fine.. Worth a little peace of mind??

It may simply be the "bumped it" action rather than holding the key in the start possition that makes a difference.. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/shrug.gif

I can say without a doubt that I have seen it.. One in particular was an engine that bent #8 while running due to a loose injector. The tech put the new short block in along with the newly sealed injectors on the left side only to have a slow crank ( at first).. It seems the previous tech not only left #8 loose, but #7 as well(the tech didnt think to check them while he was there, you know, "flat rate")... After this slow crank, it ran with a miss.. #7 rod on the new short block was now shorter than the rest.. Be carefull.....

Well, I would, however, I rufuse to join sites like that... No offence to the guys that run it, but I dont have time to debate why we shouldnt run with the EGR unplugged or how to get around the DPF, or how its the dealers fault that my truck blew up with stacked programers on it.....Hell, I dont even go to the Ford message boards for that reason.. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/2cents.gif Didnt there used to be a "soap box" smiley? You had to poke me this morning didnt you /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

Yea, I can see it now......... A line of SD owners around the block waiting for the service dept to open on Monday morning because "when I push that button on the dash, my truck makes a different noise and my fuel economy gets worse.. And, dont tell me thats NORMAL!!!!" /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif Some things are there (or not there in this case) to protect the ignorant.. The manual regen is there in the IDS so a "technician" can perform a manual regen in the event that he thinks it needs one and hasnt had one.. Bottom line, the PCM makes the final decision no matter who pushes the button.. JMO /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif

I totally agree with the statements in the first paragraph. I would just do what I could as far as the Tq. I have asked several people about the combination of tools needed to properly perform the Tq procedure. I have yet to get a specific answer. I'm hoping to eventually see a suggested tool kit for this operation. Remember necessity is the mother of invention /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif( /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif).. We all know the importance of Tq when it comes to injectors, the 6.0L was the hold down bracket(6.4L too) and now we have the lines to keep in mind. Just thought I'd add that info..

Some other MFG's are claiming that with the crowsfoot at 90* to the Tq wrench you do NOT need to do the equation to recalibrate the wrench. The only concern I have with your picture, if you used the equation, it was probably a low Tq value to start with. Then adding the extension(torsion bar) length might lower it a bit more.. Cant knock you at all for doing what you had to do, just keep this stuff in mind next time.. Good luck..

All the info I have seen says that you dont need to remove the heads before the bedplate on this engine. On some engines, its definitly needed though.. The main thing I would caution is that you use the cam alignment tool. It keeps the cam from turning the crank by valve spring pressure /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banghead.gif.. This will surely happen without noticing it untill you try to start it.. I also strongly recomend against the guys on the other sites that are doing this in the truck.. Too many variables on a tempermental engine, like playing with hand grenades in my opinon..

You forgot Left Hand Thread on the fan clutch.. /forums/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

OK, stupid question time.... Are you sure its fuel? Not coolant? Had to ask.. Are you doing the fuel test hot and cold? Does this truk happen to have a block heater?

Have you monitored Short Fuel Trims to get an idea if the ECM is correcting for one particular cyl? I guess we can assume it runs good, right? At 24650psi, the Hi Pressure test allows for 465psi variation. I would think that losing 465psi could create about 4qts over 2k mi... Just a thought, sounds like an injector leaking to me(internaly)..Good luck, keep us posted...

Yea, once the up pipes are out of your way, if you hold your mouth right the pump cover will slide out. The manual does a pretty good job of explaining wich way to turn it too..Should save you a bit of time..